Jeremy's 455 motor build thread

Well since a weekend in Thanksgiving picking up a motor in Ohio, to now in time of gathering parts, my dad and I started to assemble my short block.

Got the crankshaft, pistons in the hole, windage/pickup tube/oil pan, timing gear/chain, front timing cover and painted.

Just waiting on the machine shop for my heads.
I'll list parts used at another time.

 

Nice, what cam did y’all decide on?

 

TA 413 camshaft

 

Nice!Glyptol in the valley pan?

 

Indeed

 

-455 bored 30 over
-Kenny bell cam bearings, dual groove
-TA 413 Camshaft
-Stock crank, ground 10-10
-Stock connecting rods, resized & balanced
-.0015 rod clearance
-.002 main clearance
-.006-.007 thrust clearance
-.025 rod side clearance
-Hypereutectic pistons h392ncp 30
-.032-.035 in the hole at TDC
-Stock oil pan, custom fabricated for rear deep sump by Steve Reynolds. 5/8 pickup tube.
-stock timing chain/gears
-front timing cover with high pressure oil pump mod

 

What thickness head gasket are you using with the 35 thou piston below deck?

 

.020" awhile back Larry provided a compression ratio calculation. 9.80953.

 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ideal-quench-height/

I'm not saying anything needs to or should be changed (especially at the stage you're at), but since hypereutectic pistons are more sensitive to detonation than forged pistons, I wanted to share that link. Engine looks good so far!

 

I'm not too worried. Everyone keeps saying they read this or read that, well where are the people who experienced detonation with Hypereutectic pistons?

 

Detonation will damage ALL pistons not just hypers. The difference is that the hypers explode vs a forged piston that will become pitted. At 55 thou quench distance, you really should tighten that up to 45 thou by milling. 50-70 thou is the “danger zone” for detonation, stay out of there.

 

Got my heads back. Valve seats for stage 1 valves, and stems cleaned up.
My dad blended the valves and I shaved off iron around the intake ports.

 

Paint on the inside of an engine is a mess waiting to happen.

Paint NOT applied to the oiled part of the engine, cannot flake off and plug the oil pickup screen. "I" would strip that block, and remove the paint.

But no relief in the combustion chamber for those larger valves. I think you'd do well to copy Buick's "unshrouding" machinework for the chamber around the valves.

Photo shamelessly stolen from a thread on this site:
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/info-on-these-heads.375149/



I'm with some others. Cut the decks, reduce the quench distance. (This happens easily enough since the block is stripped to de-Glyptal the inside. But that's me.) Potential advantages of reduced quench distance include:
1. Less chance of detonation
2. Less spark advance needed for best power.
3. Improved efficiency

HOW were the "stock" rods balanced? Buicks are notoriously difficult to do properly; I have the impression that most folks merely go for overall rod weight, not matched big-ends and matched small-ends. Was the rest of the assembly balanced?

Honed with a torque plate? What rings? What's the torque needed to turn the crank on the short-block?

 

Just as a reference, I've used Glyptal on ALL of my early engine builds and never had it fail. Proper preparation is the key.

Where I used to work, one of the products that we built were large industrial hydraulic oil tanks for rail roads and customers like Caterpillar. A lot of these tanks were coated internally with Glyptal before being shipped out. The ISO cleanliness codes for these tanks were ridiculously strict, and none of these high-end customers would require Glyptal coating if it were marginal or susceptible to "flaking off".

It's good stuff...... just has a bad reputation by a few "bad" applications and quickly spread on the interweb!

 

Same here Steve. Everyone gets it. Never had it flack off!

 

It's all a secret.

 

http://glyptal.com/glyptal_products.html

There are more than forty part numbers for "Glyptal". I've used whatever version the company provided, to seal electrical connections. After a number of years, they took away the Glyptal and made us use NYK grease instead. I was never told "why". I preferred the Glyptal, because if you accidentally leaned against it an hour later, it was dry and you'd never know you touched it. The NYK was just grease that left you with stained clothing or dirty hands. But that wasn't my decision, and they didn't ask my permission.

I did a search on that web page I linked to, for "engine" and got three hits--two for "Jet engine", and one for "GE Aircraft Engine". All those applications are torn down and inspected on a scheduled basis.

I did a search for "iron". Two hits--one for an ingredient in the paint itself, and another for "structural iron" which I take to mean iron girders and beams.

There is a listing for "high temperature automotive components", but based on the other items mentioned, I think they're intending it for brake rotors/drums, or maybe exhaust manifolds--not the <300 degree oil, or ~240 degree iron surfaces in the lifter valley. But maybe not, since they say it can be applied to aluminum, magnesium, or steel (but cast iron isn't mentioned.)

NO, "Glyptal" is NOT "made for" applying to the inside of an automotive engine If you wanted to apply it inside a racing engine--that gets torn-down after each race, or even after a season of use (I think it's a TOTAL waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm) you stand a chance of catching it before the stuff has detached enough to cause problems.

Putting it inside an engine that isn't intended to come apart again for years if not decades is crazy. The video you posted warns about sloppy preparation, flaking, plugging the oil pickup. And for good reason.

Better keep an eye on the oil pressure, and cut the filters apart now 'n' then.

I want to see actual documentation about the stuff "speeding oil back to the pan". Pour oil down the lifter valley. The huge majority of the oil never touches the cast iron, it's flowing over the top of...a thin boundary-layer of oil.

You want to not "micro-aerate" the oil? Grab a sanding roll or thirty, smooth the iron under the oil drainback holes. Hell, smooth the entire lifter valley and timing chain area. Polish it like jewelry and take lots of pictures to impress folks with. At least the polished iron won't detach and cause problems.

What, on a cast-iron surface like the lifter valley, needs to be "sealed"? Anything like casting sand still trapped in the iron from manufacture would be long-gone 40+ years and 50,000+ miles later. If you're scrubbing the iron enough to assure paint adhesion...aren't you going to remove any debris still remaining? Do you folks have a lot of problems with unsealed iron putting debris in your oil filters? I don't.

Paint you DON'T apply, CAN'T cause problems.

 

::::Rolling my eyes::::undertaker style.