Jeremy's 455 motor build thread

Hypereutectic are used in some production cars these days....however they have knock sensors to keep them safe. Risky in our applications unless ultra conservative with timing and jetting correct. I wouldn't use them in any race motor......

 

Well I guess I'll find out how good or ungood they are won't I? I'm young. I wouldn't mind building another motor in the near future. It's only money and parts that take forever to get.

 

I wouldn't sweat it,...give it hell,...what's the worst can happen,..it breaks and build something better and more power

 

Now with the glyptal it's gonna all come off in the first 30 secs of operation,...completely block the 4in Dia pickup screen,...lock the pump up,..starve the engine,....lock the rear tires up and cause catastrophic failure within minutes,..................so yea watch out for that

 

Let's see where did I leave off.
Heads installed. Stock iron with valve upgrade. .020 steel gaskets.
Pushrods and T&D roller rockers 1.6
Intake manifold shield.
B4B intake installed, must of missed that picture.

 

Theres the intake manifold and valve covers..

 

When you are posting pictures, click Insert every image as "Full Image" It is far less clunky when the pictures are in the post. Clicking and closing each one is a pain. Thanks for sharing the build though.
Greg

 

Sorry to ask here on this thread but always wanted to ask.. I see alot of engines being lifted by the steel plate bolted to a aluminum intake with no other support.
So its ok to lift a 500 lb motor this way and shift it back and forth while fitting in the engine bay?
Jeremy I will delete this from this thread if it bothers you.

 

I would never do it with an aluminum intake.....those Edelbrock threads are pretty fragile to begin with. Some don't go down very far.
But I see people getting away with it......

 

Yea I've always used the lift plate no worries for me ,..did it yesterday actually with the edelbrock intake,...there was a thread on Yellowbullet years ago about that and a guy swung a 460 Ford with an aluminum intake from a plate and his backhoe jerking it around and everything,...just rode around like it was welded to it

 

I believe you but still it would scare me..

 

From an engineering standpoint, you need only one 5/16 bolt with 1/2 thread contact, to support the engine. Or so I was told by an engineer who I trust. He did the math..

Two bolts are needed for lift stability.

With 4 bolts, regardless of the material, you could leave the motor bolted in, and lift the entire front of the car.

If the threads are damaged in the intake, heli-coil them. That repair is stronger than the original thread, when done correctly. This should be done, regardless of using a lift plate or not.

Damaged threads need proper repair.


It only seems scary.. Leave the logging chains on the tractor..

JW

 

Good tech info.
It's the constant back and forth and up and down that worried me the most.
Iv'e seen some maby 1/8 inch thick flat stock loops on the passenger side front of the motor on some BBB's or probably even the SBB. What size bolt do they use and where are they attached?

Just looked again at the build pics and there is a cast loop into the back. Did the factory use them?

 

I think it has been covered pretty well now but I thought I would put some numbers to it. Just one 1/4" x 20 NC thread grade 5 bolt is rated for 3800 lbs tensile strength. Even a grade 2 is rated at 2350. Multiply by four and you are well covered for strength to pick an engine by the carb flange. I work on helicopters for a living. you should see what just a few bolts have to hold together on certain pieces on those aircraft. True aircraft bolts are strong, but most are similar to a grade 8 industrial.
Greg

 

Like you say, as long as the threads are decent, there should be no issue. Standard thread engagement is 2 times the diameter or more in Aluminum to achieve rated strength. Steel is 1 x diameter and cast iron is 1.5 x diameter. This is only basic rules I learned in tech school but is ballpark accurate. So if the intake has the 1/4" bolt tight with 1/2" of thread engagement it will do it's job no sweat.
Greg

 

So, with 1/4-20 bolts Greg's calculations are fine.. now consider that the intake actually has 5/16-18 fasteners on the carb flange.

No worries guys.. I pick up expensive engines all the time with a plate, and never think twice about it.

JW

 

Whoops. I wasn't thinking of the bolt diameter too well. LOL. Of course 5/16" x 18 bolt holds even more. 4450 load strength. You would need 5/8" thread engagement in aluminum. I think that should completely have us off track on this thread now. LOL.
Greg

 

Just checked mine on B4B...all between 1/2 and 5/8 in thread depth. Still I wonder with WORN soft aluminum threads.
BUT I guess we should all stop worrying if big pig BBCs can be lifted we should be OK.