very good numbers!! Get it to hook alittle better and it will run in the mid 11s. That 1/8 time is apr 12.0 in the 1/4. What was your 330'?
Don't know what the 330 was. I can't find the slip now.. I'm sure it will run a 7.50 with a good hook and a good driver..
Foot brake.. Don't know.. Light goes yellow, green.. Car pulls 1.1 G.. Converter flashes at about 3K.. Like I said. If someone knew what they were doing..
I would agree, you are in the 11's in the quarter. Strait conversion says 11.99-12.00. But since your mph is 3 mph higher than what an NA car would run with that ET that tells me that you will have a faster second half of a 1/4 which will run you in the 11.70- 11.80 range. Nice work! Are you still using the 2 step?
Nope.. Couldn't get it to work right off the brake light switch.. I'll play with it more later with a hand held button. The brake pedal takes too long to return to home position.. So the brakes release, and the pedal is still on it's way up. The car lurches forward with the rev limiter still on..
I tried this along time ago on my old car also. I agree the brake light switch is to slow, so I mounted a momentary push button switch thru my brake pedal and had it hooked to the 2-step, worked great until I went to a trans brake. :TU:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80174/ or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80171/ here is a $10 or $14 part that might be just the ticket. It is a brake light switch that is activated by brake line pressure. Instead of using it to activate your brake lights use it to activate 2 step under pressure then deactivate 2 step when no pressure is present. I would power the switch with a toggle so that I could activate it at the track and not on the street(well....)
Hey that's great Jay! I knew it should go 11's. That's still not a spectacular 60' time, so a little more 2 step tinkering should gain a lot of ET. Also, like James said the typical 8th to quarter conversion tables are generally going to show a slower ET than what a turbo car would actually do because of the top end pull. I bet you're around 11.8-11.9 at least, as is, and a solid mid 11 if you can get the 60 trimmed down a bit more. Nicely done! I'm jealous, but VERY close. A bit more tinkering and I should finally make it to thet track myself.
I want to say a special thanks to you and all of the other people that helped me along the way. I didn't have a friggin clue what I was doing when I started this thing..
Hats off to you too! You're a gutsy guy and proved that it can be done without a ton of engine and tuning knowledge.
James.. I'm gonna try to accomplish this with a hand help button like the signaling devices used on Jeopardy (it's free and easy). I don't think it will be that hard to let off the button and the brake at the same time. If that works well, maybe I''ll try one of those switches. There's no reason not to run the 2 step on the street. It's no value, but doesn't interfere with anything either.. It's not a race car anyway, sust a quick street car.. Well. It might have some amusement value:3gears: :3gears: The way it runs now you can get in trouble in a hurry...
I think if you get that 2 step sorted out, you,re going to have a tough time hooking up off the line! If you do hook, BUH-Bye!!!!!!
I used a 2 step on my N/A 455 that is a street car and it back fired out the exhaust VERY violently. I even opened my "Y" dumps at the headers and it was still a very bad thing. There was just too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust that accumulated and combusted. Did you have any problem with that before?
When it comes to boost to much is a bad thing.o No: How much are you running now? Is the engine built for it? Maybe it does not seam fast any more is because you are getting used to it or the transmission is slipping. o No:
