That is so out of my league.. And most peoples too.. To pay somone to do all that machine work would be insane.. or maybe not.. What would this cost?????
And why does his rocker conversoin kit give no problems and this is the third time I've had mine apart.. I'm not doing anything different??
Jay, it sucks that you're having problems. I think early on it was just a problem with the loctite like you thought. On this new breakeage, it could be valve geometry. We think this is what is killing James' 455 valvetrain too (not a roller conversion, but regular shaft style). If the valves are too far into the head, the stems can stick up enough to tweak the angle of the rocker. It puts a bigger load on the studs when the valves are first being cracked open. Something to check out if you have any more trouble. I LOVE that you are such a die hard guy though! Beat on it, break it, fix it, BEAT IT SOME MORE!!! Too cool. Wish this year had gone different for me. I'm really looking to send the crank out of my block to find just what a stock 350 shortblock will hold!
That's funny.. It always drives home too. I looked and it had good oil pressure. Looked under the car and nothing was running out. It was making a horrible noise where the rocker was beating a big dent in the valve cover. I said Fu*k it. How bad can it be if it has good oil pressure so I drove it home. I have no idea how the lifter stays in the bore, but it actually make great power on just 7 cylinders. My buddy said I left about $50 worth of rubber out in front of his houseo No: o No: As far as the valvetrailn geometry?? Don't know. One of the best, if not the best Buick guy on the east coast did the heads which are slightly milled. Block is stock. The rollers look like the sit about where the should. They are 1.6 rockers. The setup is dead silent. I mean silent. Maybe I overtightened the hex head cap screw. The fasteners I bought have a nylon patch on the threads and was tight going in. Plus the fact that I used epoxy on all the mating surfaces. It has to be stronger than before. If anybody can break it:laugh: ,, It's me.. Time to wire up the box and have more fun..:3gears: :3gears: :3gears: James.. I'll let you know if I can build boost on the line now..
Yep... I can hold my foot on the floor building 4 lbs of boost on the street with no problem without the car moving or tires spinning. Rev limiter is set at 2700.. THis is something you need.. 34* initial timing locked. 10* start retard. 1* retard for each Lb. of boost. 10 GPH alcohol sprays at 5 Lbs. Plugs still gapped at .025. This thing is noticeably faster with this setup. When you're making 400+ HP and do something that you can feel is obviously faster,that's a big difference. This thing absolutely rips..
Mallory Ignition 685.. You'll need to buy the 2 bar map sensor, harness, and may need a little device to make you tach work with a digital box.. http://www.malloryperformance.com/P...jID=534&minID=5342&selection=3&minselection=1 I scored one on Amazon for $226 and free shipping..
Wow that's a steal! I've been getting the same effect (except for the 2 stage) by using a modified vacuum advance. I set my timing at 25 locked, then use manifold vacuum to bring it up to 32-34. It acts like a poor man's start and boost retard.
4 pounds on the starting line is huge. Does it just kill the tires when the 2 step releases? How long does it take to build 4 pounds?
I resisted the urge to shread the tires.. I'm sure I will before the weekend is over, but at that time no opne was looking..:3gears: The boost jumps right up, but I have litte bitty turbos too.. THe rev limiter will be cool to play with at the track. If I shread the tires, I can just lower the limiter until I can sit there with my right foot planted and launch without spinning.
I was doing that same thing as well with the vacuum advance hooked to manifold.. The difference now is that when I whack the throttle open it stays at 34* until it starts to build boost instead of immediately dropping to 26*.. So at 2lbs of boost I still have 32* of timing. The difference is very noticeable.. I probably barely had enough spark too with a stock setup..
OK Finally got time to toy around with the car tonight. With the cool air it pulls stupid hard. Sometimes it even breaks the tires way loose halfway through first, but keeps pulling just as hard.. Problem is..... With the rev limiter, I can sit still and build boost on the gauge, but when I let off the brake (trigger device) it just bogs for a moment..o No: It might backfire a little in the intake or exhaust...I thought the alcohol was coming on too soon (before 12 noon) (10 if you're on vacation), so I adjusted it so it wouldn't trigger until 7lbs of boost.. Anyone have any experience with this???
I didn't mention.. This car is so much fun to drive. It just babies around and then wholy Fuc*. I went by to see my machinist. He had just built an engine (403 chevy) for a customer that had it installed in a Chevelle. He was at the shop. It made 470hp and 455 tQ . I took him for a ride an he declined to take me for a ride:beers2: . Said he had some tuning to do:TU: Yeah.. You got some tuning to do..
I'm sure this is the one question everyone will smack me for asking, but what kind of gas mileage are you getting?
I have absolutely no idea. The odometer is off because the speedometer is still off. I've never really filled it all the way up. The cruise AFRs were at 11.8. (I'm currently working on that). All of that is accompanied by the fact that it's impossible not to plant your right foot on the floor every chance you get. For those reasons, we will likely never know the answer.. Here is the thread where I'm trying to get the carb fine tuned if anyone gives a crap.. The weather is not be very cooperative.. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=145484.0
