It's a street car.. I have to keep telling myself... My best friend said " you have exceeded the useable HP for the street"....o No: I'm OK with that...
No, see you've got it all wrong. If you have exceeded the usable HP for the street, keep adding more power, but drive it around at part throttle. Most of the time.
This is how I'm doing it. For now the regulator is adjusted for 4 lbs, so up to 4 psi both sides cancel each other out. At 8 psi there is a 4 psi difference from side to side, so the wastegate opens. Turning up the boost is just a matter of turning the knob.
You can just try one size of bleed and see what your boost increase is on the gauge. If you need more boost just drill out the nossle. The setup with a mechanical dial is fine too just wanted to point out you can do without.
Jay, I think I'm in the same boat you are. I finally got the car out on the highway and ran it out in 2nd gear, and just a bit into 3rd. At first the AFR was at 10.5, and I could feel it lugging. Jetted 2nd's down and got 11.1, much stronger. Jetted PVCR down and got 11.5, better yet. Went through $20 of pump premium for those 3 mini runs. Problem is, it just doesn't feel that strong anymore. On the way home I matted the gas rolling down the street and it builds boost, the tires let go and it starts wandering in the rear. It must still be making the power but my A$$ dyno is getting used to it.
Funny how you get used to it.. If it's turning those giant tires over it's making power.. Sounds like you have the jetting about where you want it. The way I have my timing curve and carb setup, I wouldn't touch it.. You gonna try to get that to the track this year??
As soon as possible. At this point it is very close. I'm still trying to find the happy balance on part throttle cruise running lean, loaded NA in the mid 12's. I can cruise down the typical street in town at around 14.3 and it just hints at surging so I'm leaving the idle circuit alone. I just leaned out the mains yesterday and it is around 13.5 above 2000rpm steady speed. I'm also trying to find the leanest primary pump shot I can get away with for town cruising, then setting up the secondary to cover it at WOT. Once that's all settled, as soon as I see a high 11 for WOT afr, I'm done. Then all I need is gas money!
I'm not worried about it being too fast. It's just too damn slow for that. I figure it should run a low 12 in the quarter. I do have a roll bar (good to 10.50's I think), just in case it's quicker than I expect. You know, if I don't expect too much from it, I might not be let down. James' desktop dyno put it at a 10.7 but that's just silly.
I think James' fastest run so far was an "underwear staining" 7.69.. Doesen't your car weigh less than 3000 lbs??? I don't even have a helment. Last time I ran I even had the stereo playing.. Ted Nugent.. Stranglehold.. May as well, with all the other cars, I can't hear crap anyway..
No my car isn't under 3000. It's fairly close, and I add another 210, but back to YOUR car, this is your thread! Tunes playing, no helmet like you were out running errands and thought "Oh look, a dragstrip. I think I'll sneak in a quick pass on my way to the store." That's great! The Jeckyl and Hyde temperment of these boosted engines is my favorite part. So mello and uneventful to drive around town.
I think it would work fine, the turbos like having a lot of load put on the engine. Here is a simulated dyno run of my Buick 350 with 14 psi (I would be happy with 700 hp): RPM HP TQ 2500 231 485 3000 282 493 3500 345 518 4000 435 571 4500 533 621 5000 633 665 5500 759 724 6000 839 734 6500 923 739
any car running faster than 8.6 (1/8 mile) requires helmet. Didn't you get told to don't come back without a helmet? Mark is onto some serious carb tuning techniques. If his car has no hickups and it is in the 12's I will switch to slowpars and quit racing! I think that the things that he is onto will put my car deep into the 10's without adding any more boost. Now, wonder twins activate and start your engines, lets go racing!
Alright.. As some of you know I've had some valvetrain issues and a torque converter issue and they will both be solved soon.. The good news is that I pulled the bottom end apart and all is like new. I will be upgrading to 73+ capscrew rods with the last set of forged pistons in the world. I also installed ARP main studs and ARP head studs.. Will be upgrading to the stage 3 torque converter.. Also will be adding a Poston S divider intake which is in serious need of a port match.. The ports on this intake get smaller as they exit?? What's up with that?? Onward...
