My AM&P 464 is finally here ....

I think the challenge has been excepted. This should be good, stay tuned.:laugh:

On a side note, are you saying that the HR rear bar will help stop the frame from twisting? I have a completely stock front and rear setup, and would add it for that reason alone, any benefit in 60 ft. times would be a bonus.

I can't wait for Spring to arrive in NY! :Brow:

Regards, John.

 

WOW!

That is impressive. Eventhough my car does not have near the HP and torque of Dominick's car, and launches very straight, if it will help take stress off the car, I am all for it.

Larry, does he have any other HR parts? That is quite something, if the bar did that all by it self. Can I use a passenger side air bag with the bar? I had some slight wheel spin at times, pretty sure it was the pasenger side only, was going to try an air bag on that side, next spring?

Yes by all means do it at the track! Take care "Wizard".

Regards, John.:TU:

 

that seems like a hell of alot of money to run parts through a tumbler

 

I'm bummed ... we can't do the install until Wednesday.

BUT, I did manage to get the passenger side fender back on and aligned with no problems at all. Of course, I don't have the hood on yet so we'll see.

I started wrapping the wire harness with friction tape and wire brushing and all the a/c fittings and anything else metal I could manage. That makes a surprising difference!!

I also put a quart of ATF into my Coan converter and installed that as well.

14.00 for new ARP converter bolts o No:

I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

And yes, I have the HRpartsNstuff catalog right here on my desk. I just wish I had not wasted 100+ dollars on that factory rear sway bar now. There's always Ebay!

 

It's in !!

Question: For those of you that have TA headers, how the heck do you get to the lower bolt between tubes 2 and 3?? We tried everything ..

 

funny i said the same thing when i bought those coverter bolts as well. I ahave the TA 1 7/8 headers and the best way for me to get at that bolt was buy taking the wheel off and reaching in throught the wheel well, makes it easy to get to at that point. even with AC on the other side as well.

 

....small hands

middle finger wraps around behind the tube and spins while other finger/other hand presses on the head of the bolt applying pressure

Oh ... you have to drop it at least 5 times before it bites and one of those times you MUST spend at least 15 minutes looking for the bolt

 

Thats funny, exactly the way mine went. Patience was wearing thin for me then I had to do it all over again. Ten years ago the header would of ended up in the trash, but it's together and working now.

Steve

 

Cut a slot in the flange. Screw the bolt in a couple threads ,then slide the header down over the bolt.

 

Thanks guys.

We had already had a full day of working on it.

I'll try it myself today with renewed patience.

A slot is a good idea but we already had the other 6 bolts in and they weren't coming out!!

Also, did any of you have to re-route your transmission fluid lines? They seem awfully close to the headers ...

 

Ahhh.....that would be a Roger - I bent up new custom lines. JW at TriShieldPerf.com sells a kit.

Also ... just thought of this. Watch out for the Pass side header hitting the back upper control arm bolt/mount. Its got a little ear that sticks off of it - may look like you have 1/4 -1/2" clearence NOW, but the engine torking over will eat up that gap quickly. I caught mine before it sliced through the header, which it eventually would have. A Wizz wheel or dremel cutoff tool will make quick work of the ear.

...If you dont know what Im talking about let me know and I'll snap a pic tonight :beer

 

Alan, if you don't mind, a picture is always helpful. You gotta love a Dremmel !!

 

I just went out to the garage and took a look. I see that ear right by the tube for the #6 cylinder. Time to do some grinding !!

 

:beer

 

OK, a few other gotchas are in the top bracket that is a part of the AC compressor and the alternator. The TA valve covers are 3/4" taller so you have to notch the bracket where it crosses the valve cover to fit properly. Also, where that same bracket bolts to the intake you have to trim up around the edge of the bracket at that bolt hole..... Did anyone else experience this?? Should this be posted somewhere?? That would have helped me.

Only a few things left and it magic time .. the first fire up!!!!

:TU:

 

Scott,

I'm just down the road from ya if you'd like any help? I'm thinking I'll be around til the new year depending on the freight situation with work, but I'm always here to help a buick brother out. Give me a call, 561-245-1661.

 

Rob,

Great to hear from another local Buick guy.

Thanks for the number !!

Do you ever go to any of the local car shows?

If so, we can hook up and talk Buick !! :TU:

 

Scotty - have a few friends (possibly Rob ??) over when you do the first startup. You DEFINATELY want a few sets of eyes / ears / noses watching whats going on in the engine bay and even under the car while your in the cockpit watching the guages.

... dont forget a towel or bib to catch all the drool leaking out your bottom lip o No: :laugh:

I never had anything but stockish setup on an A/C equipped 68/69 BBB but thats good info to know. my '69 Stage_1 4 speed project hybernating in the garage is an A/C car

 

I actually ran into this with my setup and AC with Poston valve covers. What I did (for now) was build up with washers where the bracket meets the manifold so everything clears. All lines up nicley My brother the machinest is going to mile me a nice aluminum piece to replace the washers. i try and find a pic.