My AM&P 464 is finally here ....

I don't want to paint the heads and intake black like the block. I kind of like the contrast of black and aluminum. I'll definitely check out your leads. Also, thanks for your advice (PM wise) on the resistance wire. I completed that transition soldering the 14 gage wire to the blade in the fuse panel front. There are so many minute details that take a lot of time. Thankfully I'm off work until Jan. 2nd.:TU:

 

Tri sheild perf did some sort of peening and polishing on my heads and intake. It turned out awsome. It only been a year but they look as good as the day I got them. Good luck Matt:beer

 

Yeah, I've seen Jim's aluminum polishing work on his website. Nice!!!

Understood Larry. Check this out, my buddy had his TA aluminum heads / manifold powder coated clear ... funky, huh? Turned out nice actually.

Question: I forgot to notice on my 400 BUT the motor mounts go in the farthest back positions, correct? Going from front to back positions 2 and 4.

 

Actually, the paint patterns tend to support that theory.

The factory had a little piece that went on the starter side that bolted on to the engine mount. A heat shield looking piece .. is this necessary??

 

I have TA's heads, intake and timing cover. Still look awesome after 2 years and wouldn't think of hiding them under paint, red or otherwise. o No:

 

I used Gibbs on everything in the engine bay works great! Even on the boat with all the moisture all the aluminum still looks great!

 

What is "Gibbs," and where do we find it?

Ranger

 

http://www.usalubrications.com/gibbs-uses.html

o No:

 

Interesting about the "Gibbs". I checked out the link. Do you just spray it on and wipe it off? Makes sense.

UPDATE: Installed the TH400 today and the fluid lines. Cleaned some brackets and such. If all goes well, we'll drop in the motor on Saturday.

I still need the vacuum fittings for the intake manifold. Also, I want to use the factory style starter ... any brands more durable or reliable than others??

 

Tell use the Specs on the Engine.

How much did it cost to Build did supply very many Parts.

Nice HP and TQ number where the Heads Ported?

 

Jeff,

Mike mailed out the build sheet package yesterday so I'll have the specs soon.

Yes, the Edelbrock heads were ported and polished.

As far as cost, let's just say that that the only original parts were the block, crank. oil pan, and timing cover. Everything else is new and it came complete from the air cleaner down, broken in, and dyno'd.

In the future, I probably would not do such an extensive (and expensive) build but I had to do it once in my life.

 

Scotty - after buying a PowerMaster XS and having the problems detailed in this thread

http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=132773

I went back to a stock unit with a HD rebuild done to it by a local starter shop. Havent had an ounce of problem with it since going in after that post. Cost me under $50 and came with a 1 year warantee

...dont forget to use NEW HEAVY GAGE battery wires - in fact, now would be a great time to replace the whole engine wiring harness. Mine had been spliced a few times and when I replaced it, it was definately worth the $$$ to get that old rats nest out of there.

 

Scotty - after buying a PowerMaster XS and having the problems detailed in this thread

http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=132773

I went back to a stock unit with a HD rebuild done to it by a local starter shop. Havent had an ounce of problem with it since going in after that post.

...dont forget to use NEW HEAVY GAGE battery wires - in fact, now would be a great time to replace the whole engine wiring harness. Mine had been spliced a few times and when I replaced it, it was definately worth the $$$ to get that old rats nest out of there. Also, new ground straps and make sure where they contact the head and body are real good contacts.

 

Alan,

Thanks for the starter info. I wanted to keep the GM starter all along. I picked up a heat shield as well. I plan on using the external Ford solenoid method so I'm running all new battery cables. I unwrapped my entire harness and it is in great shape. I soldered in a new 14 gage wire in place of the resistance wire so hopefully I'll be set. The OEM style harness tape is on backorder at Year One... so I'm waiting on that. It is not sticky like electrical tape.

My torque converter didn't ship out until today so the install is on hold till next week ... stay tuned!!

 

Are you going to be running headers? If so test that heat shield with your set up on the starter. I bought one as well and with the heat shield on the starter( rebuilt Delco starter) we could not clear the headers and trans lines. So I did not use it and have had no hard start issues after car has been running for awhile. so not sure i realy needed it anyway. I am running full chrome TA headers. Just and FYI. you may find it fit better for you, not sure if anyone else had this problem.