If you do mill your heads and use the steel shim gaskets you can get up to 9.8:1 compression. This is the largest cam i would suggest, and the price is right: http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1497&gid=287 Several members run this cam above... Here is video: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=176643&highlight=lunati+cam Another good cam: http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1492&gid=259
Arent those cams to big for 9:1 compression and power accessories? I guess im being a bit on the conservative side for the compression considering i have no clue as to what im at now. I was thinking this would be the max: http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1496&gid=287 Is anything from ta or poston really any better? Does anyone sell 69 lifters besides TA?
I know Cason and Marty have no complaints about low vacuum using the hot cam I was suggesting. The cam you show above looks fine as well, and would have a bit more bottom end torque most likely.
How will this cam work with stock heads with no port work? Im thinking of this cam or TA_290-94H-350. What do you think sean? Am i smart just to swap out the cam now or should i just bump my compression and reassemble the motor and see if that fixes everything? With my current cam mid 13's i dont think is possible so i would eventually change out the cam anyways....
As you know the key to the 350 is the head porting and without it you may be better off to take advantage of the bottom end torque and use a slightly smaller cam. here is an example of what I am talking about: TA 212 cam http://www.tworock.com/mjd/buick/350/ta-212.jpg TA 310 cam http://www.tworock.com/mjd/buick/350/ta-310.jpg When using a basically stock 350 with alum intake, headers ect using a large cam like a TA 310 really does not help the engine very much in the upper rpms due to the lack of head porting. Instead the TA212 cam (or mild Lunati) is a better choice since it takes advantage of the natural torque the engine makes and works well up till 5500 rpm were the heads and intake run out of flow. HOWEVER if you had the heavily ported heads, 3.73 gears, 3000 stall converter then the 310 cam could get you in the 11s NA while the TA212 never will. I vote for a compression raise as much as you can with the low comp pistons, get close to 9.7:1 and then use a good sized cam but maybe not the largest one I suggested first.
Sean i already have a 72 8.5 axle i workn on. Ive already got a set of 3.73 gears and im workn on gettn a posi. I also plan on getting a converter after the rear is in. I just put the rest of that on hold until i got there motor figured out. My heads have been pocket ported. If i feel daring i may even gasket match my heads and my intaske while its apart. I just need to pick a cam and ill buy it all tomorrow. My goal is 13.5 or quicker while being streetable with my power accessories.
You have the Poston intake which will flow a bit better then the stock iron intake Artie is using, plus like mark says there are so many variables including altitude. Have you done any driving tests with the 73,79 jetting? Find your leanest plug and tune to that plug.
Then go for the large lunati or the TA 290-94H, I know GS Johnny runs that 290-94H cam and it pulls hard to over 7000 rpm. Even seen 10000 rpm and lived.
Yes ive tried the 73/79 jetting. It seems rich at idle considering it burns my eyes. Under driving conditions i cant tell much difference. I did pull my #1 plug yesterday and im starting to get some plug color. The porcelain is starting to turn a light brown color.
Seems like the large lunati requires more compression than im sure i can get. I know i will be able to hit atleast 9:1. Im leanin towards a lunati because the are priced a good bit less than a TA and i am on a budget. I think im leaning towards the voodoo 67002. Will this get me to where i want to be?
So, I noticed you are running an ignition box. If you have the wires reversed, it will run, but will drop a ton of timing and run like dog doo over 4000rpm. Any chance this could be a factor? Also make sure the coil isn't wired backward.
Im running a crane electronic conversion in my distributor. I believe everything is right. I will double check. Mark whats ur opinion on my cam swap im considering doing?
I would go straight to the cam that will work with you final combo, otherwise you will want more cam later on. Go for the 67003 and it will take advantage of the gears, tall converter, ect that you are adding. You should be at 9:1 now if you have the low comp pistons and it is no problem to get over 9.5:1 with head milling.
Jumping in a little late, but I'm running the TA 290-94H cam as well and I have to say I really like it! I often shift mine above 5600 and it is still pulling good. I did run a Lunati in it that had lift in the 480-490 range and 210-220 separation when I had an otherwise stock drivetrain and that was a very good cam for that. It pulled good right from idle up to 5000 rpms and the car ran low 14s with it. Then I added a little more gear (2.73 to 3.23) and a little more converter (stock to a 2000/2200) and wanted more cam. Now I again need a little more converter, a little more gear, and a sticky tire!
How much does it normally cost to get the heads milled? Do they need to remove the valves, springs, ect? If i get the heads milled i have the mill the heads and the intake so it fits right? Or do i have to mill the intake side of the heads? Im just tryn to do all this without my price sky-rocketing. I dont know if i wanna play it safe and go with the 67002 or the 67003.
I recently spent $700 on porting, port matching, blocking the exhaust crossover, new valve springs, new valve seals, and flow testing. Milling should be relatively cheap. If you are just squaring up the head surface, I don't think you'll have to worry about the intake fit... if you were taking off more than .020" I would probably look into it. If you're serious about getting your heads milled, I would recommend getting them ported. You'll notice more of a gain when you go to whatever new cam you decide on.
I checked the two wires going to the coill, they are correct. I reversed them once and i fried my pertronix electronic conversion.
