Last night i took the buick out to see where it made its peak hp in first. So i put it in first and setup the gtech so it would record everything. I punched it and revved to 5k, then put on the brakes. I did this 5 times and every time my peak hp is being made between 4100-4200 rpms. My cam is rated to 4800 by TA set 4deg advanced. I need to figure this out its really holding my car back. It shouldnt be a fuel issue because i run an electric pump as well as a mechanical when i do performance driving. i just installed a fuel guage under the hood and everything seems to be ok under higher rpms. it goes down low but tends to bounce back up. its hard to tell without one in the car with me . Im in the process of replacing my plugs, wires, and coil right now to eleminate that. The engine was rebuilt about 20k miles ago. I installed a ta c110 cam about 12k miles ago. I didnt degree it with a wheel but i set it at tdc then installed the timing key at 4deg advanced. Everything else about my car is in my signature.
what you total timing?? where,s your initial timing set at.if cams at 4 advanced, try 10 total advanced. should be 14 inital, 35,34 total.what the vacum advance doing?? is it adjustable?? curve kit?? all this set right makes a HUGE difference.
total timing is 15 initial 37 total. what do u mean try 10 total advanced? i have an adjustible vacum advance. i have it turned down very low. i have a curve kit. all timing is in by 2000 i believe.
I think there are a number of posts indicating this intake may decrease performance realtive to a stock cast iron unit. Perhaps your intake is the same model. Look at post #21 in this thread: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=162991 Also you could drop in a junk yard fresh 455 from a 1970 Electra and really smoke the tires for a lot less $$$$. We can still buy those here for $200-$400.
My intake is the newer style with the milled center divider. Which should be atleast as good as stock with a 40lb weight loss. ....could it be my intake?
You are using a G-Tech to tell you where your HP peak is? I think that is suspect right there. Maybe it is telling you where the engine is pulling the hardest, and that would be peak Torque, not HP. 4100 RPM would make sense for peak torque. Get that car to a track, or a chassis dyno.
I agree. I've read and heard many a story of how inaccurate the G-Tech really is. Ironically enough, the dyno program for the iPhone/iPod Touch is much more accurate.
my gtech has a screen where it says both peak hp and torque and shows me a chart like on a dyno. peak tq is made around 3200 and the hp 4100 after that the chart starts going down. when i compare the numbers to what i feel in the car it seems to be acurate. i can tell i lose power quickly...the gtech numbers affirm that.
There's NO WAY that car should be nosing over that early. I'd be looking at fuel delivery very carefully. Also, do your valvesprings match the cam? If not, I suppose really worn springs could be floating the valves. You might also pull a little total timing out. It might not sound like it's pinging, but any detonation will hurt power, even if you don't hear it. 37 seems a bit high to me.
Do you have a regular tach to confirm what the G-tech is giving you? The G-Tech can be a great tuning tool. Make your changes one change at a time and go to the same place all the time then the numbers will be accurate. But...don't take it to heart that this is the real numbers you are getting. Remember this is a tuning tool not a dyno. Put in a tach then you will know for sure where your car falls off at. Try the G-tech in a different car just to see what kind of numbers you get from that. Run out the whole 1/4 mile with it and see what you get from that and post the numbers for us. Maybe the cam is advanced more than you think it is. I also run my timing at 32.
I'd also be tempted to pull a little timing out of it and try it again. I try to run about 12 initial and 32 total. When I had problems with the car nosing over at the top of second gear it was because of too much advance.
i just read and the ta site says to use stage 1 springs for this cam. when my dad origonally built the engine he had a poston GS350-110 cam in. when i put in the ta c110 i didnt change the springs. poston does recommend to use PE104 chrome silicon valve springs and i dont know why dad wouldt have used the correct springs. would the stage one and pe104 chrome springs have the same properties?
yes i have a regular tach to confirm the gtechs numbers. here are my most recent 1/4 numbers Open Air filter 1in spacer Manual shift 4800 7.28 0-60 2.622 60 ft 10.211 1/8th 15.65 1/4 90.5 hp 168 @ 4347 tq 221 @ 3689 Open Air filter 1in spacer Auto shift 7.89 0-60 2.708 60 ft 10.546 1/8th 16.25 1/4 86.0 hp 150 @ 4394 tq 206 @ 3565
thought you had the cam installed 4 advanced and then changed it to straight up.......4 advanced with the 4 built in to the cam would be alot . you power band would be explained.....
I agree...at 4100 you wouldnt be floating a valve with that cam anyways.....kody I cant remember but I htough you said you redialed that cam to "0" instal which wouyld be 4 advanced as designed
Mark is right on, make sure you have good fuel pressure at full throttle. Rig up a gauge to a place you can see while you are driving like neer the wipers. I also agree about the timing, you may gain power by pulling a bit of timing.
when i initally installed the cam i put it in at 0. it ran like a dog and we concluded that i had to advance my cam key to 4deg. after that it gaind back its power. now it just drop off at a low rpm. here is my origonal thread about my cam http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=131806
