Does pertronix change your firing order...?

Could have cut and pasted my post on like page 2. Lol

 

I listened to yacster off page 2 and did all that stuff. Still didnt work. I guess the shaft that the distributor goes into is messed up and thats why it wasnt working.

 

This thread has me confused? Why did u take the dist out? Did you verify it was 180 out?

 

If he lived here we would be rebuilding the engine he blew from beating the crap out of a great running engine.:laugh:

Ade. Your only problem now is the oil pump drive (slot) is not aligned and mating with the dist. drive (tab). Make the tab fit into the slot while the gears align with #1 cyl. and it is done. Get a long screwdriver (needs to be longer than the distrbutor) Gently place it all the way down in the dist. opening. When you hit bottom spin it gently until you feel it seat in the oil pump drive (slot) should feel like turning a flat head screw. Now you will be able to move it. Looking at the bottom of the distributor make a mental picture and turn the slot to orient it to accept the tab at the bottom of the dist. (like on page 2) You are just not getting them to align correctly. Because the gear is twisted it makes it a little touchy to get everything aligned. Just keep at it you'll get it.

BTW did you get the mail??o No:

 

I changed the oil pump shaft and...
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!! :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

But now the carb keeps flooding!! I think the float is getting stuck.
I took it off and knocked it back down but it did it again...
Im gonna keep trying to get it going.

 

Dang...NOONE is happy after all that drama that the car finally started?!
Bummer

 

Did you get a package you migh have forgot to thank some one for??ou:

 

I apparently got it 3 days ago.
My mom gave it to me this morning. Dang she is nosy!
Thanks so much Yacster those things are sweet! Now I have something to wear to car shows! :beer:grin:

 

You're welcome. And Mom is doing the right thing by being nosey. Keeps you out of trouble:TU:

What's the latest update on the car??

 

Latest update on the car...
after all this stuff happened i took the top of the carb off and cleaned it all real good with some carb cleaner and it isnt sticking anymore.
I dont know if I told you guys but when i bought it the guy had said that it was freshly rebuilt and apparently he was right cause i started going around the engine and checking all the bolts just to make sureand just about every single one was pretty loose...so its a good thing I got to it now, i torqued em all to the specs in my manual.
I'm gonna gap and put in the new plugs and wires today...drive it around until the weekend and then put in the headers this weekend.

Oh and another thing...are you really supposed to take it easy on newly rebuilt engines?

 

Also...
Water pump is loose so I am going to soak both those bolts and the ones on the exhaust manifolds for the next couple days with jb blaster just to be sure that everything goes smooth...and replace it
That shifting problem I was having...was incorrectly connected vacuum lines.
My goodness i love this manual!
The rivi should be back in action...fresh plugs...headers and all by monday.
Ill take some pictures of everything including the engine compartment before and after etc.
Thanks a lot for all your guys' help and sitting through all my dumb questions and bad prioritizing.:beer:beer:beer:beer
Im learning...slowly. :grin:

 

As far as the heat...is that from a culinary style torch? Or bigger?
And i heat up the jb blaster when I spray it on? or....?
Ive talked to yardley. He said they should go in if i raise the ac and move the steering box for a little

 

also do i do the whole heat thing right before i take them out or for all the days before?

 

A culinary torch? Are you making Creme Brulee':bla:

Oxy-Acetelyne would be optimum, but you dont have one. Next you can get away with propane/MAPP gas which is used to sweat copper pipes by plumbers. You can pick one of those up with auto ignition for $50 at Lowes/HD. Buy a few more bottles of propane while you are there. The difference is it will take a while to get the kind of heat on the bolts with a propane torch as opposed to O-A. You want to get the area immediately around the bolt cherry red which will make it expand away from the bolt. Then you want to give it a quick shot with a hammer and punch tool (if you can get a swing in there if not go straight to loosen), then loosen it as fast as you can.

You can start a new thread after you snap one or two of them in the head. Hopefully you will be as lucky as I was and they will all come out with out a hitch.

If you are so lucky. When putting the headers on do not forget to use Loctite Red thread sealer on each replacement bolt. Good Luck:TU:

 

Why do I line the timing marks at 10-12 degrees? When the engine is at TDC, shouldn't the timing marks be lined up at zero?

I'm having trouble reinstalling/timing the distributor on my '71 GS350. Does your recommendation of 10-12 degrees apply to my engine?

Great write up, BTW.

Thanks

 

Yes it does , bring the engine to TDC as described above then put the line on the balancer up to or even past the 12 mark on the balancer, Then you drop the distributor in and position the rotor where it needs/you want it to be by turning the oil pump shaft, the rotor tip should be just a little before which ever terminal on the cap is going to be #1 cyl, the route the other wires clockwise from the #1 wire 18436572

 

The spark plug fires 10-12 before the piston reaches top dead center to create a proper flame front ignition and propagation, and ensures enough time for this to occur.

When the engine is running, there is time the piston is moving up and the timing is "early", at higher speed, this advance "curves" to more degrees before top dead center to allow for the speed the piston is moving and the time for the burning of the fuel/air to work out so that maximum power is realized on each power stroke.

Like swinging to hit a pitched baseball, the batter swings before the ball reaches, because the batter's ability to hit the ball properly requires time for the bat to travel and meet the ball at the optimum time for the best impact to the ball. Not exactly the same, but to explain timing of events.

"Static timing" can often be more precise than timing lights due to the drifting of wights in the distributor and other mechanical variances (in older style distributors), by setting the timing mark to the correct degree BTDC, it will be very close and "safer" when starting to set correct timing, than taking a chance of having premature firing and risking damage.