Does pertronix change your firing order...?

if any excess up and down play needed taken out of the dist shaft then it would have been pulled to put a shim in between the gear and the dist housing

 

Alright guys, hes back and this is what happened.
Apparently he got to the firing order this morning before I did.

STILL WONT START UP! :af:
The distributor is not 180* off...
A shim was put in the distributor to get rid of play...
It has spark and gas.

I had the guy do it while I was there and it seems to be doing the thing that it was doing before I brought it there.
You crank and crank and crank and it acts like it almost is gonna start up until it kills the battery. Then I would jump it with another car and it would start up almost instantlly. And for the rest of the day it would start right up, but then...let it sit over night again, exact same thing the next morning.
What the heck is going on?
To me it seems like it HAS to be something with the ignition. Like its not getting enough power or something. Ive thrown a red top battery at it and everything. Coil bad or something? I am stuck

 

Just threw a new coil at it...no help :ball:uzzled:

 

x4
Put the pionts back in.

 

The distributor is in right...and the pertronix is sending spark to the plug...its getting gas and air...thats why i dont get it

 

oh and as far as the choke thing...i dont know!

 

i did the TDC thing and it was pointing right at #1

 

how do i check if its engaging?
ill check it out...once i can actually get it started

 

got it...will do

 

Yes, Ade. To set the choke the owners manual says to first floor the gas pedal once, then then crank it over WITHOUT touching the gas. It should fire up if the choke snaps shut.

If it won't start, I'm wondering if the fuel pump is bad. After sitting sometimes a bad pump will lose all pressure and to pull fuel from the tank am extra battery is needed to get the thing cranking fast enough to get the pump to draw.

Put the points back in and set the dwell with a dwell meter (to start, with the points all the way open on the top of the lobe, set the gap to 30 thousandths. That should be good to start the car). If you don't have one see if that lame mechanic does.

 

Im gonna go try to start it with a jump like I used to have to do before.
If that starts it up...then ill replace the fuel pump tomorrow and see how start up is.
Otherwise...its back to the points and finding out why it wont start

 

O.K., I've got to admit I did follow this thread at first, then not for a while, and I just read through it quickly to catch up. I figured that by now it was on to the next issue.
This may have been covered but when you say it's getting fuel, looked in the carb and pumped it when it's cold to see if it's getting fuel at start up??? Sometimes these things (like my 67) don't seem to have any fuel in the bowl after they sit. I have to crank my car a bit, then when it starts it's good for the day. I've been meaning to try uncorking the gas cap when I park it at night to see if I'm getting vacume that's sucking it back down. I haven't spent a lot of time checking mine out because it starts, it just takes a bit. I need to do it soon so that I'm not over working the starter.
By the way, I'm glad that I did read it. I've heard a lot of good stuff about the pertronix. From what I read here it's probably because the guys that gave me the report didn't drive the car a lot so they didn't give it a lot of chance to fail. Scratch that from the "to do" list.

 

Ade - Don't touch the distributor. It is fine. You are getting spark and it is pointing to the correct cylinder. Leave the distributor alone. Do not replace points. Don't touch it again. Got it!:TU:

Now- You say you crank and crank and until you have to jump the car it will not start. This is what I want you to do. Replace the Positive and negative battery cables. Next. There should be 2 straps coming off the back of the engine. Make sure they are in good shape if not replace them. 1 to the body and one to the frame of the car. Make sure the area where you attach these cables are free of gunk, oil, and paint. Fresh shiney metal is what you want.

Next DO NOT DEVIATE and purchase headers, a cam, torque converter, spray paint or anything. The carb needs to be tuned correctly. You will be surprised when spark, fuel and air (and compression) come together correctly what happens . . . Here is a hint the car runs perfect!!! Do not buy another thing for that car until it runs right GOT IT!:TU:

 

Thats plan...just trying to get everything situated...a car that will start everytime I try to make it haha.
What are the straps on the back called if I were to go into a store to buy replacements? Ground straps?
Also...someone said something about the timing chain maybe being messed up?