Calling any artists! Can someone give me a drawing of where to exactly run my hoses once i go around the TCS. I seen another link where Larry talked about sticking a Autometer temparature gauge in that hole, so I think I will do that, but I am just wondering where my line will run from the advance to the carb. Would I just take the current TCS to CARB and go from carb to advance?, getting rid of the tee that comes off of the advance right now? I appreciate all help so far. Working on aquiring vacuum gauge, tach, and timing light to make sure I get this done right.
Sorry Sean, after posting and then rereading what you said I think I am finally starting to get the picture. For now I do not even need to worry about the hoses. p Plug TCS (think I still will put a temparature gauge there though) and plug? the vacuum advance hose coming off of the distributor, but what about the hose into the carb? Plugged or just leave it sucking? I just want to make sure I do this right. Then adjust lean/rich, then timing with light then adjust idle after timing. Does this sound right? Thanks.
You can leave the vac advance canister (space ship as you call it haahaha) disconnected. No need to plug it because its just a diaphram that reacts to the vacuum. Just plug the hose that goes to the vac advance. I think you have the idea, but make sure the timing is in the ball park before you adjust the carb since the timing will make a HUGE influence on how it runs and scew any adjustments you make to the carb. After the carb is tuned then fine tune the timing from there and you'll be good to go.
So that would be the hose from the carburetor to the vacuum advance correct (the one I am supposed to plug). If so then I got this thing ready to try. Thanks again.
I will make a scetch of the vacuum lines on the TCS of the stock 350 Regal I just got, but not till next time I visit my property.
Just providing this as a reference. It's from the 72 chassis manual. If you're trying to bypass it now, this is only a reference.
Thanks for the picture. I look at that and then the picture in my other post and my memory tells me there are only two hoses on my TCS. The one in from the distributor vacuum and the one out the top goes into the carburetor. The hose below the input from the distributor is not right and the spot above must have been a weak spot that broke out. So there is a definite vacuum leak there. Also the tee coming from the bottom hose in the diagram is not where the tee on my car is. My tee was placed off of the distributor hose then into the intake and into the TCS. First big question of the day for today, probably no the last though: Would I replace the TCS with a ported vacuum switch (with the three nipples) http://www.autozone.com/R,APP466856...partType,00212/shopping/partProductDetail.htm I figured then I could run the hoses like in the diagram and just leave the TCS electrical wire unplugged? Does this sound right? I still plan on following Seans tips and suggestions but was wondering about the hoses. Thanks all again, you are all lifesavers.
That would work and just cap them off till your running ok then connect them. Your right in your thinking that the vacuum leaks will mess up any tuning.
I agree with the comments about replacing the fuel pump. Also, the vent hole in the gas cap could be the cause if the tank is not venting properly.
No update yet as the military had me on more pressing Memorial Day items to take care of. I had to take time out to remember my fallen friends and comrades most of whom are supporting American policy as we speak and won't be home for 6 more months thanks to our wonderful new rotation policy. But on the bright side I did order a timing light and vacuum gauge off of EBay. Hope this all works as I have been dreaming about setting the timing and it is keeping me up nights. I ordered this timing light, is it adequate? Thanks all. Innova Pro Timing Light #5568.ray:
You'll do fine with that light. Did you read the post in the FAQ section about power timing your buick? There have been many nights awake thinking about buicks, the worst was when I spun a rod bearing..... It has more details on how to set up a 30 degree mark by making a second timing mark on the harmonic ballancer (round thing neer crank with timing groove) 3/4 the way counter clockwise from the front of the motor. This allows you to check total timing at rpm without a dial back timing light.
Okay, got down here to work on my car. Changed the points (.016), set the timing by ear, adjusted the carb with a vacuum gauge (19), set the idle by ear also. Timing light should be at the house now and hoping that this gets the car up the hill and home today. Runs fine straight and narrow, no hesitation in acceleration or stumbles or backfires in WOT. So far so good. Turned around on the off ramp to go the other way and going up hill it hesitated again? Feathered it and no problems but was level again. Found another big hill and started up under acceleration stumbled again then died. Slowed down and crept up the hill about 20 mph turned around down hill no problems. No problems all the way back to the house, all level roads. I am waiting for the car to cool down so I can look at the fuel filter, but then the only other thing I can think of is the float not set right so that when I am going uphill it is not getting enough fuel in the bowl? Any suggestions? I have to get this up one big (20 mile hill) to get it on the level and drive it the other 90 miles home. Thanks to everybody here it is running way better than it has before, I just need this one last item to get it home today then I can start a new thread with the other stuff . Thanks all.
Yeah, maybe float level. It is starving under load. One other thing I read this morning (here), check that you don't have a kink in a rubber fuel line or a bent steel line...
Changed fuel filter. Old one looked like it had been mashed and about 1/4 of it was covered with the teflon tape I used to seal the threads. Took it up a nice steep grade and no problems! Everybody cross your fingers for me. The kids are excited and want to get it home! Course I don't think they know how much time my new baby requires :Brow: . Once I get home (hopefully) I will let everyone know. Thanks again, I LOVE THIS FORUM!
Alas it is still not home. Got back to my mother in laws late after waiting for the tow truck. Bet my insurance is getting mad at me using up my road side assistance. Best 10 dollars a year I have ever spent though. Seemed to be running good but the noise from the valve covers seemed louder than usual so I pulled over and turned it off to get my tools out of the trunk and when I went to start it nothing. Had my uncle run down the hill and get a new ignition coil as I thought that brand new one might have burnt out, replaced it and still no spark. Went and got a new distributor from NAPA and am waiting on a 3:30 delivery to replace that. (Currently 2:15). That is the only thing left in the spark path that I have not changed so far. Once that gets here I will replace that and hopefully all will be well. I am just going to mark the old and drop in the new and time by ear for now till I get home and have my timing light. If that don't work I don't know what I will do :rant:. Do you think I should be concerned with the noise from the valve cover on the drive up the hill? I know it probably needs new rings as the vacuum test showed me? Thanks all again, will try it tonight and then hopefully it will work.
pull the valve cover to make sure the rocker arm shaft is secure and in one piece... ask me how I knowou:
