If you had no oil pressure then the car would not have run anywhere close to half decent before self destructing.... Find a new mechanic, how bout yourself? Just take some time and let us work with you on the problems. If you are willing to learn then we can walk you through it all! I came to this sight a few years ago with very little experience and now I tackle anything! Start with a fuel pump, new rubber lines.
dlsorensen--sorry to hear ur still having trouble with ur car. ur mechanic isnt giving u very good advice in my opinion. please take advantage of the good advice ur getting from these great people on this forum. ive learned tons about the buick engine from here and still learn a little every day. i think pretty much everyone agrees to change out the fuel pump. as for ur oil pressure, the motor would have seized if it had no oil pressure. good luck and keep us posted:TU: ralph
Umm, maybe I'm being dense here, but how can you have low oil-pressure on a few cylinders? Or more precisely, how could the mechanic have been able to tell this?
He said low cylinder pressure on three of them. He also said 0 oil pressure and only 4 PSI of pressure from the fuel line. I do appreciate all of the help and am going to change the fuel pump and rebuild the oil pump. My question is if the cylinder pressure is low on three of the eight, can I do the fuel and oil problems and safely drive this car 150 miles? If I can get it to my house from my mother in laws then I can at least work on it at home? He said that if I do those things and drive it with the low pressure those three may go and then the engine will not even work at all? It's funny that everybody says fuel pump, as that was the first thing my wife said when she was following me and the problems started p . Who'd a thunk it.
Just fix the fuel supply and drive it home. Don't worry, I'm sure your oil pressure is fine for the 150 mile trip. You'd know by now if it wasn't.... Once you get it home order the TA oil pump rebuild kit and adjustable regulator, use a real gauge and report back with #'s. Don't use the high flow pump, the regular will do fine. We can walk you through more tests that you can do yourself with some cheep tools to diagnose the poor cyl pressures, but we'll get to that after you get it home.
DOn't rebuild the oil pump until YOU get a good gauge on it yourself, and cah physically see the pressure. If there's an issue, then you should take appropriate action. After reading what your mechanic told you, I'd reconsider everything he told you.
Correct me if I am wrong PLEASE, but if I put in a mechanical or electrical oil pressure gauge that would connect where I replaced the oil pressure switch right? And once installed, the idle oil pressue should be 10 PSI? How exactly would I hook it up, ie. to battery and wires and stuff. And can anyone reccomend an autozone or NAPA one as that is about the only place I have access to in a hurry. TA stuff will follow once I get it home.
Also I just looked at the oil pressure switch that I purchased at NAPA and it has a pressure rating of 3-7.5 PSI? If the idle pressure should be 10 psi then how does the switch work? I know it only runs an idiot light but I guess I am at a loss for the workings behind it.
Can somebody walk me through the fuel pump swap? Where exactly is it located? The Autozone pumps say they have to be wired through the oil pump switch. The OE mechanical ones at NAPA don't state this. Which is better or easier? Autozone has the OE ones but would have to order online.
You may have to wait a few days for it to be ordered in but NAPA should have no problem getting you a OE fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the driver side at the front of the motor. It is simply a mechanical pump that has an arm that reaches into the timing cover. You'll need a gasket for the pump, might as well get a full gasket kit now because you'll need em all at some point. It is only two bolts, no wires just in and an out fuel lines (use new FUEL grade rubber with proper hose clamps).
Just use a mechanical oil pressure gauge (no wires just a line the gauge), and yes is connects where the idiot light sensor goes. Don't get too stuck on what the idle oil pressure is for the purpose of driving it home. More important is the oil pressure at mid rpm where it will be during the drive most likely. You want about 45 psi at 4000 rpm and 30 psi at 2500 rpm. Keep it under 4500 rpm and it will be fine till you get it home and fully inspected. Make note of any noises or tendencies on the trip and let us know how it ran after you get it home.
Before you connect the hose to the carb from the pump stick it in a pop bottle and turn the motor over. Once the bottle starts filling up, connect the carb and you'll be good to go.
Thanks I've all ready ordered it from NAPA and will get it on there ASAP. I appreciate all of the assistance so far and will let everyone know what happens with it on the trip. Thanks for the "pop" bottle idea. Been in the military so long and away from South Dakota that I forget that there is only pop and not soda or coke :Brow:
haahaa thats funny! I've been gone from home for a year, so I'm moving my stuff here and making it home....
Marine Corps from 91 to 2002 got out and worked Youth Corrections for the state of South Dakota for a while and then joined the Army :idea2: . Went from a Marine SSgt ready to make Gunny to a Army SGT (for 20 months now). Working on finishing my degree and doing the OCS route. Oohrah and Semper Fi Marine "Bones heal, blod clots and sweat dries, suck it up and be a Marine"
