I finally thought I had my engine ready to make the road trip home after new plugs, wires, carburetor, oil change, oil pressure switch change, transmission fluid filter and fluid change and four new tires. Got it on the freeway and when on the exit ramp once I hit aboout 49 mph it bogged down and then died. Pulled over and restarted with no problems. Same thing happened again. This time I tried pumping the accelarator when it first started happening and it tried to give it some more but then did it again. Once I got back off of the freeway and onto the side streets it drove fine. What could cause this? Could it be a problem with my muffler? There is a leak in the muffler, but I could not get it changed this weekend and was hoping for the best? Any thoughts and help is appreciated.
problem sounds fuel related to me. did u rebuild ur carb, replace the fuel filter, how about the fuel pump. is the carb adjusted properly. how about the ignition. did u change the points, set them properly. im sure some of the guys here can help u out further,. good luck and let us know how it turns out.:beer ralph
did you put the fuel filter in the Carb backwards?... my '68 would do that after i rebuilt the carb and it turned out that i had put the filter in backwards.. would run fine around town (because fuel pump wasn't working hard against it) and would start to bog at full throttle at high speeds due to starvation... check your float level in the carb as well wes
GM rebuilt NOS carb. Changed gaskets everything else was good. Fuel filter is in correctly with the rubber part on towards the carb and the hole facing the fuel line. Fuel filter is also brand new, distributor was not changed at all. Idle was adjusted by guesstimation.
In line filter could be an option. The plugs are brand new Bosch Platinums gapped to .040. Plug wires are accel that I made to length.
I've brought this up in similar threads, but seems I'm the only one it's happened to Is the vent line clear? Could you be creating a vacuum in the tank that eventually overpowers the pump?
I had that very thing happen to me on my 66 skylark. i was running without an aircleaner and the hood insulation was getting sucked down to the carb and choking off the air supply. open the hood and look and see nothing.. drive a little more and problem happened again..took me a few to figure that one out
Had this same exact thing happen to me, but it would not quite die at 50..Mine would bog almost down to near quit, but it was perfect in town..I replaced the fuel pump and haven't looked back..It solved all my problems..Look into that, that might be your problem..It sure was mine..
i posted the smae thing exept mine alwyas did it at 60mph, ended up being a cloggeed fuel filter at the carb inlet..even if yours is new id change it anyway. there so cheap and who knows yours might of had manafacturing problems....i changed mine and all my problems were gone
driving around more than usual can stir up crap in the fuel tank only to be sucked up and clog your filter
I always start at the tank with any old car. Remove the tank, hang it from the garage rafters by rope and add: Trans fluid, box of bb's, and some carb cleaner works really well to clean a gas tank. Swish it all around and the bb's will help free up any sludge in the tank while the trans fluid and carb cleaner losen it up. Rinse with fresh gas repeadedly till it comes out clean. Dispose of fluids responsibly. Buy a new fuel sock or just remove it (it will be clogged). Blow out your fuel lines with compressed air after disconecting carb. New in line filter with new FUEL grade hose with real hose clamps not springs, new filter in carb inlet. New fuel pump is advisable.
Mechanic stated following: The timing was at about 14 he could only set it back to 8 otherwise it would not idle. He also said no oil is circulating in the system. 3 cylinders have very low pressure. He unhooked a vacuum hose that he said was causing hissing, said there was no problem with the exhaust. Fuel line had a piece of hose that was not standard and is apparently buckling under load. He reccomends a new engine. That and installing are probably above my pocketbook right now. Is there anything I can do to rectify the problems I have listed so far? Thanks all for the help. Car is currently 130 miles away at my mother in laws so I can't do much til the weekends. The mechanic I took it to says it would probably take him about a month to do my engine swap if he had to do it.
Get a second opinion!!! If the car drives and sounds fine in town, then do the cheap fixes first! Don't get taken in by a mechanic with dollar signs in his eyes! Hunt around or ask a board member in your area to recommend a proven mechanic to look things over for you. Sounds like some of the things you mentioned can be taken care of for little money out of pocket.
Thanks, the mechanic is not even to enthused to take it on, and I thought that maybe he did not know what he was really talking about. I had even asked him to rebuild the oil pump on this for me. He said there was NO oil circulating after he hooked up a gauge to the oil pressure switch spot, but I drove it all over town and never even smoked? Thought that would happen if there was no oil circulation? Does anybody know a good mechanic in San Bernardino, California? That is where the car is currently located and I don't really want to have to pay to tow it a long distance. Thanks for all of the help and posts.
Mechanic also said that he does not believe the core is any good as it sounds funny when running? I asked if he could just rebuild the engine with a master rebuild kit, but he does not want to use his only hoist to work on my car. So I asked if he could at least do the oil pump since there is 0 oil pressure and do the fuel pump since there was only 4 psi there, but again he did not want to use his hoist and tie it up so he could not do his oil changes. He said he would have to lift the motor to do the oil pump? As he stated there is low pressure on three of the cylinders. What should I do with this engine? How can I tell if the core is any good? I all ready paid him $225 for nothing but three hours of labor. PLEASE HELP, I don't want to have to scrap this car.
Sound like it is your fuel pump. When the motor is under load on the highway it needs a little more gas to operate. You could have a low float or a plugged up filter but everything is new. Doesn't hurt to check the filter though you can put the timing on 10 if you don't ping under load. Check out TA Performance for a new rebuild kit for the oil pump. This is easy to do. Just make sure you get the asjustable pressure regulator with the kit. You can get more oil pressure if you use 15-50w oil or maybe 20-50w. If you have a lot of miles on the motor this wont hurt you. If you can get a fuel pump tester(some vacume guages have this feature), Plug it in and test with the engine running you should have at least 4lbs. pressure. I have even used a air compressure to blow air back to the tank if you think the sock is plugged up. Just remove the cap and don't have the car runing or smoke or be in the garage when you do this. Blow some air thru the return line also then you can verify that the return line is not plugged either, you may be getting vapor lock from no air getting back into the system. More than likely it will be the fuel pump.
