Fuel pump it was. Changed it out and took it on the freeway and no problems up to 70! Now on to the burning oil issueray: Thank you everyone for the timely advice. I really appreciate it.
Now lets find out if the oil is going throught the valve seals or piston rings! Just add oil into the spark plug hole and re-check pressure. Large impovement is probly piston ring wear and little improvment is typically valve stem seals.
Okay, Saturday it all seemed to work fine. Took it on the freeway 75mph and no problems at all. Sunday geared up to go home. Stopped at the gas station to put in some 91 and got out on the freeway and had the same problem. Could only think that there was a problem with the fuel cap and that the system was not pressurized. So I stuck some rag in the hole and left the cap off and it seemed to fix my problem I was going up a good grade at 65mphp Then all of the sudden it sounded like there was backfire coming from under the hood. Got off at the next exit and pulled into the gas station and raised the hood. Made sure all the plug wires were connected at both ends and then when I give it gas it pops. More so under initial acceleration but also throughout. What is my problem now? I am about to have it towed and have a crate motor put into it. Unless someone thinks I can just have it rebuilt. I don't really have the money for either of these but I don't know what else to do. Thanks.
You have a timing problem. Probly a loose timing chain that skipped a tooth or a stripped nylon timing gear. Have you tried to set the timing yet? If so check it again and see if it was where you set it.
Just got back from having it towed back to my mother in laws. At least I made it 18 miles this time. I don't have a timing light but I had a mechanic who set it and he said he had to set it at 8 since he could not go any closer to 4 without it dying out. I guess I am going to have to beg, borrow, or steal one and see what it says. What about a new cap and rotor? Would that be a good investment? Any ideas appreciated.
Do you have points on this or an electronic Ign. Points can be a problem if they are not set right. Set points first then timing.
Points I guess. It is a stock 72 350 2bbl. What should the gap be for the points? Would I be better off just getting a new cap and rotor and then setting those points?
The gap is .019 (roughly), but the best way to set them is with a dwell meter. The correct setting is 30 degrees. BTW, new points are usually adjusted properly to start the car out of the box, so try it first. Do you have a dwell meter?
No "investment" required-- just a coupla few dollars. They are tune-up parts and should be replaced as needed, and/or whenever you buy a car.
I don't have a dwell meter but if they are ready out of the box, then replace them I shall. I guess then I will have to figure out what else is wrong if it is still misfiring after a change of that and check of the timing.
First off buy a timing light. Replace your points ignition parts and set the timing. The guy who worked on your car was doing more harm than good from what you have told us. You need to set the timing your self and go from there.
Somebody on the forum has made mention of my TCS. The car ran fine Saturday and then had the problems Sunday when I plugged off the top hole that had nothing connected to it. First of all do you think that the mechanic inproperly set the timing because of this issue? He said it stopped hissing when you disconnected the hose from the tee off of the distributor vacuum, which it did, and it also stopped hissing when I plugged of that hoseless hole. Also if I want to bypass the TCS would I just remove the hose that goes to the TCS and plug off the third hole on the tee so all I would have is the hose from the distributor advance and then a hose to the carburetor? And then unplug the wires from the switch? If I bypass should I bypass and recheck/reset timing and idle. I am planning on a new cap and rotor, bypassing the TCS (if majority agree, and if my hose routing assumptions are correct) and resetting the timing and idle. Does this make sense to anyone? Thanks for all of the help so far. Please keep it up! :grin:
sounds like ur on the right track. keep at ithttp://www.v8buick.com/images/icons/icon14.gif Thumbs up ralph
Try it with the "top hole" disconected and left open the way it was the day it ran good. Take it for a boot and report back. I've had a badly set carb that ran better with a vacuum leak then without. I set the idle mixture screws, re-set the timing and then it ran better with the vacuum leak plugged. This may be your issue. I think it was poor idle mixture that liked the vacuum leak. You will want to set the timing at idle (intial timing) then start on the carb. You'll need a cheep vacuum gauge. To set the idle mixture on the carb: with the motor off -Block all 4 wheels well -put on the e-brake -disconnect the vac advance and plug hose to TCS -connect vacuum gauge to a source that gives a reading at idle -find the small screws at the bottom of the q jet and lightly bottom them out then screw out 1.5 full 360 degree turns -start up and put in gear -watch vac readings as you adjust the screws in and out till you get max vacuum readings -make adjustments of a 1/4 turn at a time and keep both drivers and passengers side equal turns in/out -allow about 30 seconds after adjustment for the mixture to adjust and the vacuum readings to react - you'll find a sweet spot of air/fuel at idle (I've found 2.5 to 3.5 turns out) Next you want to go back and check the initial timing again and adjust accordingly. You'll need to lower the idle speed most likely since the better mixture at idle will raise the rpm. You will want about 4-8 degrees of extra initial over the recomended stock spec. For now run it with the vac advance disconected and plugged for simplicity sake. You can add that later for economy and drivability reasons but for now leave it un plugged.
No QJet, just the stock Rochester 2bbl. Where is a good place to find a vacuum when doing this? I now understand where the vacuum advance is (the little spaceship :Brow: on the distributor), and I know the TCS (block off all the holes on it?). So I set the mixture with a vacuum gauge hooked up to where? you guys recommend, then adjust the idle mixture by turning all the way in then backing out 1/4 each and waiting for adjust until highest vacuum reading. Lower RPM back to recommended 500 in drive, then check the timing and if factory recommends 4 then i should go for 8 to 12? How would I make sure it is at 8-12. Once this is done then sean buick 76 you recommend just leaving them plugged and not rehooking the vacuum advance from the distributor to the carb, but for how long? After I get that what do I need to do in the long run to get it running full throttle proper?
Same thing with 2bb, but make sure you start at about 1.5 full 360 degree turns out and then adjust at 1/4 turn in/out at a time then fine tune to 1/8 turns ect.... Connect the gauge to a ported vacuum source that will pull 15-20 psi on idle depending on cam and tune. If you only have 10 then the motor is way out of tune. Give us some #'s and we can help.
Don't worry about the vacuum advance for now. First we need to get your initial, and mechanical advance in the ballpark then add the vac advance. Don't worry we have you covered.
