good to hear that :beer I read your previous post and all I could think of was it sounded like you could use some help. :TU: for WHAMMO
Good to c your running again and help is always a good thing. Do u have a date when u can track test it?
Track test it, AND BREAK STUFF AGAIN?! p just kidding....i dont know, maybe in a month or two. oh, when i was setting the valves yesterday (after dropping in the inner springs) my #7 spark plug had anti freeze bubbling out of the spark plug hole (i guess the plug was a little loose), so i took out the plug and cranked the motor and a more antifreeze came out, then stopped after about 3-4 rotations. it dosent seem to be doing it anymore, any ideas why this would have happened?
That is not good at all. Do not run the engine anymore until you find out where the anti freeze came from. Have a garage pressure test the cooling system. If you are lucky, it's a head gasket, if not, a cracked cylinder or head. That is not normal.
I vote for the intake like Steve. Greg Gessler just had the heads and I think it's easier for an intake gasket to leak. I don't even want to think about a cracked block. Did you use the composite gaskets like TA says to use with their aluminum heads?
the first time i tried starting the car i noticed anti freeze leaking out of one of the intake bolt holes. when i went to tighten it i noticed it was real loose, so i checked the rest and they were all loose, and this was after i torqued them down to 55 lbs in 2 incriments like suggested. so i re-torqued them down, so maybe when i started it for the first time maybe some antifreeze leaked into the block? there is NO way i have a cylinder head leak, i torqued them down EXACTLY like TA suggests, incriments of 3, then cracking them loose one at a time 6 hours later, then again 24 hours later repeating. Gessler decked the heads and i used the forgiving "orange crush" gaskets. so i really really dont think its a cylinder head leak. and it dosent seem to be doing it any more, just did it that once. ray:
Aluminum Intake onto aluminum heads requires 40 ft. lbs of torque. 55 is for iron intake to iron heads. Hope you didn't crack or warp the intake. http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88949&d=1172195169
should i retorque to 40 ft lbs? i checked all of hte other plug holes, they are all dry, it was only the #7, now it too is dry after retorquing the intake down.
ok, i retorqued the intake to 40 lbs. i also tapped out the striped thread on the rear of the intake that was leaking by the #8 plug and got it to torque to 40 lbs. i also checked all of the rest of the plugs and none of the others have any sign of antifreeze in them, and #7 no longer has and antifreeze in it, so im hoping i got it:TU:
is there a break-in period for cams after the initial break-in? i made an appointment for a day at the chassis dyno, but only have 100 miles on the new cam and lifters. Remember, i didnt touch the pistons or rings, they have about 3-4,000 miles on them.
