Spring 06 Bash Attendance / Trashtalk Thread

Doesn't that car have paint on it now? :TU: My car might as well be in that condition. :rant: :rant: :rant:

I think it's even worse when you have a car that feels so healthy and strong but can't make it down the track! What a tease!!!!!! Dang GS. Stupid thing gets me all excited then won't even go all the way with me!!! Gets me half way there and lets me down. :blast: Thought the car was a girl, but must be a guy!!!! :moonu:

If I can find someone to trailer it, I'll bring it. With the way it's acting, I'm not even going to try to drive it.

Yep, fuel, air, and spark. Oh so simple!!!????? RIGHT!!!! You haven't lived under the little Dee gloom cloud, have you???? :shock: :laugh:

Puddin' is coming to help me? Oh so cool! :TU:

Where/how is the ignition wire suppose to plug into the fuse box?

 

dee dumb question are you still using the resistor wire /Braided ignition wire to the firewall?

As for the car posted by me I bought that on saturday. The black car is a 72 ou:

 

Bad me! That's a '70 rear bumper. Factory standard! Cool. Haven't you been looking at that car for a while now? Oh, it would help if I read what you had above the pictures! I see pictures and that's what I look at first! Blond here. ou:

Braided ignition wire? What the heck is that? I've got a black wire from the distributor to the fuse box???!!!!?? It looks like it's spliced together and electrical taped right outside of the firewall. o No: ou: I messed with it while it was idling and couldn't get it to cut out or miss.

 

Phil, all it needs is a little Armor-all and maybe some Turtle wax on the paint!

:beer :bglasses: ou:

 

Maybe an orbital buffer and Walla, good as new....(In 2010) :laugh:

 

We are getting off The Subject.... ou:

Back to the ignition wire!!!!! :Smarty:

 

Resistor Wire - The original wire that runs from the firewall to a points distributor. This wire was used to reduce the overall current from 12 volts to about 9 Volts. By reducing the voltage the original points would not burn themselves up as fast but still provided enough spark to ignite the sparkplugs

Then the upgrade to HEI (High Energy ignition) with requires 12 volts to operate. if the resistor wire was on there the coil would only have 9volts to charge the HEI coil and the overall spark would not be as strong. as compaired to 12 volts.

 

Dee, the resistor wire is a girly color-- pink. Is the wire feeding the + side of your coil pink? If so, you need to run a switched hot lead to the coil! All HEI's need 13.8 VDC, maybe a little more, to run any kinda right...

Frank

 

Black thick wire runs to the ignition side of the distributor to firewall.

Resistor wire ? (kind of red color with a clear kind of clip) is coming from the fire wall is sitting on the intake not plugged into anything.

 

Okay, here's where I have gotten so far and where I'm heading.... :ball:

 

This is one of those cases where you want to dig a deeper hole. :laugh:

 

phil-- address and directions sent..

 

I've dug pretty darn deep this time and still coming up with "outhouse waste". :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: That's putting it lightly!!!! :ball:

Come on guys, I only have less than 2 hours before I have to go home and not have access to the internet. I need more help quick!!!! :rant: :rant: :rant:

If I don't get it fixed tonight, at the latest tomorrow night, I'm going to pay David to take the car away. Yep, pay him to haul the heap off for good. No more GS, might even get rid of the Skylark. Maybe the Z28 too. What the heck, get rid of the WS6 while I'm at it and keep the German engineering. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

I'm going to start to really squall soon. :ball: :ball: :ball: :ball:

 

Thanks Frank!

Dee All I can say is that we need to see the car, It is all speculation till we see the results from a voltmeter or ohmmeter. This will help us narrow down the culprit to which it is either electrical or fuel. We can test the electrical system such as power output from the firewall to the coil and resistance of the sparkplug wires and so on. I hope you can understand. Call david or one of the LSPBC guys see if they can help you out to get it to temple. Then we will have a few hours to work on it before test and tune.

 

Here's a question on the electrical system testing and speculation on what will happen when it's tested. If we test everything while it's not under a load, I have a feeling we aren't going to find anything. How can we tell if things are "breaking down" while the car is on the track. Typically (before last night), you could get on it all over town and not have a problem until I drove it under race conditions. Speculation..... o No:

I just hate to put anyone out by trailering the car down there, and imposing on everyone to look at it, and then not find anything wrong. Not complaining, but that is the story of my life. No joke! :shock:

So how do you get rid of a vapor lock issue the correct way and not my red-neck way?

 

Sorry this has turned into an off-topic thread but I have another question.

This might sound completely stupid, but I really don't care at this point. ou:

When you remove the fuel line off the carb., should there be any pressure in the line? Such as fuel spraying out of the end of the line when you pull it off or should it just pour out? o No:

The answer to this question might have some significance, I promise! :Smarty:

 

Dee,if the fuel pump does not have a return line going back to the tank,which yours doesn't , you will have some pressure left in the line after you turn the motor off.After it sits for awhile the pressure usually will bleed off.Hope that helped answer your question. o No:

 

Okay, here's how my day has been...

....since everyone is so amused by my daily disasters, thought everyone might enjoy this.... :Brow:

I just got asked out to dinner by a FUNERAL DIRECTOR. :shock: Would any of you say yes to dinner with a FUNERAL DIRECTOR? o No:

Bet you can guess what I said! :Smarty:

Okay, everyone laugh now... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Denise

 

Renamed thread....

Okay, here's one reason I asked about the pressure in the fuel line. It's off another discussion.

Ron
The guy that rebuilt my carb retired from a local Pontiac dealership, everyone that knows him say he is the best Pontiac man in the area. The car runs Great except when it vapor locks or whatever it is doing. The glass filter bowl will not have any gas in it when it is acting up also I have found that if I take a fuel line loose it has a lot of pressure built up and after the pressure is gone it will start and run fine. I have heard that the gas with ethanol can cause problems I have looked for a station that has pure gas but all I can find is blended. Thanks for the help

Also:
Try checking your gas cap then if you have a lot of pressure built up in the tank. You need to make sure that it is vented. If it's not, then pressure builds up, & car will act like you describe. Next time this happens, try taking off the gas cap. If car starts immediately, chances are that's the problem.

Done both. I don't have a problem with the car starting though.

Should I take the screw out of the cut off return line on the gas tank so the tank vents or can someone tell me where to find a vented gas cap that fits a Buick? Haven't been able to find one and thought since mine was old and the rubber is hard that it would be somewhat vented because of it. I can smell gas around the cap = venting?

Only 10 more minutes until I don't have internet access until in the morning. Eagerly awaiting everyone's responses! :TU:

 

Dee, that red wire on the intake, it's not where it could move around and ground something out is it?

When you disconnect a fuel line, you may or may not get a lot of fuel under pressure, it depends on where the fuel pump is in its stroke, and how long it's been sitting.

Plugging the return line to the tank shouldn't affect the tank's venting, it should have a separate vent line (big cars have 3 that go to a big goofy flat canister behind the rear seatback). When you dropped the tank you should have dealt with a vent line. Your car "should" have a non-vented gas cap which may or may not still seal. Venting the system won't hurt anything, you might try a run with the gas cap not completely cinched down and see what happens. As long as the end return line to the tank is high enough so it won't start siphoning gas out, you can unplug it and use it as a vent - I'd just be sure to route it away from possible ignition sources.

Heck, get your car to Temple, you're NOT imposing on me at all - this has become a "Mission from God" (cue Blues Brothers music).

Oh, and Funeral Directors are often the most wealthy people in town, and that's one business that'll never run out of customers... :Brow: