Neat project! I had a '72 Cheyenne several years ago, so 67-72 trucks always catch my attention. I am curious if some sort of gusset of sorts could be made to box the frame where it is notched for the oil filter?
Why would you want that. The frame is simple C channel and integrity is not challenged. The frame has from the factory in that location the top section bend up for some kind of clearance solving.
I couldn't see real clear in the picture, but it looked like quite a bit of the top portion of c-channel was removed. I would think the factory bent up portion in that area would be almost like angle iron and not lose any strength. Not criticising your work at all, it looks great! I was just curious. Look forward to updates and the finished project!
No worries buddy. This trucks have been build so simple so this wouldn't hurt it at all lol. It's a lot of fun I hope I can get her street ready after the winter. PS: has anybody ever tried 100-150 shot NOS on a stock 455? Mmmmmhhhh
I'm not a fabricator, so that's why I asked about it in the first place. My experience is more in the wood and concrete field, being a builder. Asking questions is a good way to learn about other stuff. Nitrous is way out of my area too LOL, but I bet it would scream!
Very cool project. I'd love to do something like this. Back when N2O was called cheating, I ran it in the early 80s on a slightly warmed over 455 with an under-Qjet plate. It was by Internal Combustion Engineering and was a 125 wet shot. It was pretty impressive. Dropped a full second off my 1/4 mile times. Made the difference between losing by a car and winning by a car. They hate me even though I told them I was going to run it on the second run. I called is supercharger in a bottle. I couldn't get the bottle filled and had to get my friendly dentist to write me a prescription so the local welding supply place would sell it to me. If you aren't aggressive with the timing, have an electric fuel pump and don't let the N2O cause you to think your redline is 1,000 RPM higher, it will live just fine below 5,500 RPM. I ran a dozen bottles through my car before I sold it. Motor ran for another 20 years before I swapped for the aluminum headed motor I have now.
I finally got the front brake parts so I assembled everything and I finally have a rolling chassis. She's sitting nice I think. I also shortened the LWB fleet sides. They where really dented since it was a Farmtruck so I didnt care about being clean , so I cut and welded it back myself.
i am making progress i prepped the Cab for primer and paint, it needed a new pas. side rocker. and a inner front window/roof panel i welded it all in and started mudding it. My buddy has a Body shop and hooked me up with some color matched ( matched to the faded out green) paint and high build up primer. so i was shooting the primer 1st and a day later the Single Stage Paint. i also fixed my replacement doors since the orig. are rotted out on the bottom. the ones i found locally are in ok condition, but had holes for speakers in the panels (uuurggh) so i had to weld in some patch panels and bodywork. i am not the guy with the patience for bodywork so i really had to be in the zone and i am pretty happy with the result. the cab inside will be nice, The outside will still be mostly a ruff farm truck, but i will seal it all with a SATIN clearcoat i picked up from summit, once its back assembled. doors
Got some work done installed the doors, installed the Vintage Air under the the dash and Sound proofed the cab and door skins with Stick& Peel. I also Assembled the cut up bed floor and Sides, it lined up pretty good for such a beat up bed, We really got a short bed now. i had to patch some parts of the bed, now i will THICK bed liner the bed
Im in the process to getting her to run . She actually runs right away when I poor gas down the carb BUT I have a fuel pump issue. It seems like the new AIRTEX pump doesnt SUCK. I am fairly sure I have it plumbed correctly 3/8s tube fitting is the Tank to pump line. Threaded line goes to the carb And the small tube is the return ? I might have to take the pump of to see if it was installed correct I might just have a bad pump of RockAuto? I thought 1st I have a fuel pickup tube issue, then I found vac leaks in the steel line to rubber due to the wrong size hose clamps. & now this .. Lol
It looks like the line from the tank, has the clamp on the bend.... I wouldn't think that would seal well. If you remove the tank line from the pump, can you pull fuel from it, by other means? I know this is a new build, but maybe the problem is before the pump. You could connect a fuel supply to the pump right there at the engine compartment. I did that to get my Electra running. I just used some el-cheapo vinyl hose for temporary connections.
Fill the fuel bowl through the vent. Remove the supply line from the pump. Briefly start the engine and feel for vacuum at the pump.
i disconnected the pump line from the tank and had it sucking from the gas can right next to it. Nothing no sution
Maybe that fuel pump just isn't strong enough to pull it from the tank. Is the fuel tank still in the cab or did you relocate it to under the bed, in the back (popular thing to do to those). I wouldn't think it would be any different than a SBC fuel pump, though... just a thought.
