400 cooling and oil pressure issue

Ditto. Your vacuum advance is currently connected to ported vacuum, which is zero at idle. You'll have to connect to a baseplate connection or manifold connection that sees negative pressure (vacuum) at idle which can read as much as 21" Hg...that's what will make the vacuum canister add timing at idle, off-idle and steady cruise driving.

Devon

 

Thank you both for looking at the pictures and walking me through this. I did not know there was a difference ported vacuum to manifold vacuum. So I need to get a manifold source. I’m unsure where the one that you can see in the picture is going BUT could I splice a T into that one? Otherwise is it as simple as finding a fitting and pulling a bolt out to make a new line?
You are correct it is a Holley 800. I pulled all the date coded manifold, carb (put it to the side), but still used the distributor.
In the picture I circled the hose in red I’m connected to now. In yellow is the hose I think FLGS400 you’re referring to? Can I just splice them all together or what would I need and get to make another area on the intake manifold if that’s too much for one line?
Thanks guys a lot!!

 

If they all can’t be tied in together could you guys help me on what parts to get minus the lines and T.

 

If that is a plug, (circled in blue below) that is your manifold source. I think it's a plug, but the fuel line makes it hard to be sure. (pretty sure it is the middle source on in the image Larry has posted)

You'll need 1/8 NPT fitting.

Like this. (But you can also use a 90 elbow)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-820450?seid=srese1

 

That you have circled in yellow is a fuel inlet

 

I think he meant the vacuum line that is below the fuel inlet in the picture....

Yes, that black line under the fuel inlet should go to the manifold vacuum source. You should be able to tee into it. Right now it probably goes to the plastic ball on the firewall for the AC/heater controls or the transmission modulator tube (or maybe even both).

 

Ok fellas. Yes FLGS400 I was circling the vacuum line under where you said it would lead to. I didn’t see it but I also didn’t realize that port on my carb was not going to work that it had to come from the manifold. I’m going to order the elbow that trunkmonkey recommended from summit tomorrow. And make a new spot for the vacuum canister and air cleaner to go in to.
Thanks guys. I’m sure at this point someone could throw a wrench at me but I’m learning as you guys are helping me fix and diagnose what is going on with the car.
It’s very much appreciated!

 

Thank you very much to provide me with the link for the fitting as well as where to put it. I will be ordering it tomorrow!!

 

I use manifold porting for my nailhead, as it is "happiest" when I do, yet my BBB/430 is fine with ported timing control.

Manifold vacuum provides an "earlier" signal to the vacuum advance, and the "ported" is determined by the signal from the carburator as the throttle plates open.

There is no "right" source, but the "correct" source for each specific engine, cam, and other variables that affect, and are affected by the components that have an effect on timing and best operation for each build.

Or to say, test and verify what produces the best power and operation for each build.

Post back with every change you make, and the results/issues you encounter, and the "hive" will help you get better.

 

I see that now LOL

 

Here check out this read. It backs Larrys post from the first page of this discussion. Another really good way of explaining manifold vacuum vs ported.
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm

 

I've read most of this thread going back to 2017. Please forgive me if this has already been mentioned but, seems to me that his whole situation could be simplified if he would just have the distributor pulled and have the mechanical advance (weights and springs) limited to 20 degrees at 3000 RPM and install a vacuum advance canaster of only 10 degrees max. If his canaster is adjustable then adjust it to 10 degrees.

Then, to keep things simple he could adjust his initial timing to 15 degrees advanced at idle with the vacuum lines plugged. That would give him 35 degrees max at full throttle and 45 degrees at cruise. He can then hook the vacuum advance to either the manifold or the port on the carb to see which his motor likes best at idle and with the A/C. If it likes to idle with 15 + 10 = 25 degrees of idle timing that's not too much. My motor has about this much idle timing and it likes it fine.

That distributor with over 30 degrees advance and not knowing where the vacuum advance is set at is at the core of his problems. IMHO. I'm also not fond of temps of 200-210 around town with the A/C running but, it's very typical and shouldn't be concerning.

 

Fittings should be here tomorrow guys. Should I use teflon tape when threading it in? I got a 90 and a straight just to be on the safe side

 

I use PTFE paste.
Prevents galvanic corrosion, acts as anti-seize and great sealant for coolant, fuel, oils.
A just a very tin coat, and clean up with isopropyl.


https://www.grainger.com/product/39AT51?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231

 

Do not ever use Teflon tape

 

Thank you fellas, I’ll make a run to the hardware store pipe joint compound.
Im glade I asked mark demko before I used the plumbers tape!

 

I got a couple issues the fittings that came do not fit. Also I don’t think I would clear the fuel line. I bought the fittings that were recommended

 

.

 

Has to be transmission line going to one of the manifold vacuum ports, the other is brake booster, and I think even if the correct fittings where here for me to put in the only open spot that fuel line would be a problem