400 cooling and oil pressure issue

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I did not realize the capped port was different size than the port the modulator is using.

If the fuel line is too close, you can T off the modulator line.

 

Ok so I can just get an another plastic T. And T off from that port? It will not steal anything from the transmission? Just asking because I do have the transmission built up.

 

Yes, cut the line just above that fitting and you'll be fine.

No worries about the two sharing that line. The modulator has a small diaphragm, it moves very little to provide movement to the spool it actuates.

Similarly, the vacuum advance, only moves the plate in the distributor a finite amount of travel.

The vacuum is plentiful in supporting both on the same line.

 

Thanks guys I’m all hooked up. I didn’t get a chance to run the car today even though it would have been a good day to test it since it was over 90 degrees out. Fingers crossed.

 

I got the car out of the garage today. I don’t want to drive it till I get the ok on where we are at. I’m guessing now again the timing is to far advanced?
At idol not in gear it’s at 35-36* and 790-810rpm

this is now with everything hooked up. The vacuum advance is tied in

 

Correct I was 9* with out the vacuum advance hooked up.
As far as idol, last week when i misunderstood that there are 2 forms of vacuum ported carb/manifold I thought I was connecting it into the correct port which was on the carb and I ran the car. That was when I had NO change in the timing.
BUT I had turned the idol down then (last week when it when everything was going to the carb)
It was like 9.8* at 600rpm ruffly.

I think because I had already turned it down 7 turns then it seems fine now. It’s at 790-810.
So to answer your question I did NOT play with the idol anymore. As soon as I seen how high the timing was I put the car back in the garage until I got a response here to see what to do next.

 

I just want to get to a safe range at this point. I don’t care about any performance increase. The motor was built for some but I’d much rather have a car that can run in warmer temps and safely with out blowing the block as I have done as much to keep all the original date coded and numbers parts in the car or on the shelf.

I am atleast learning what does what and where go where as you guys are walking me through this.

you did mention my vacuum canister is adjustable can it be turned down?

Should I loosen the distributor and try to back it off some more? If so I would need to be walked through on what to do. The last time it was moved and timed was at a shop in 2017. So I have no hands on experience.

 

Should I loosen the distributor and turn it with the timing gun on and bring the timing down that ways from 35-36* that it is at right now? If so standing facing the motor which direction should I turn the distributor? And what number would be a comfortable number with the vacuum advance canister and lines all hooked up?

or if it’s easier to limit the vacuum canister how can I do that?

I think if I’m following you correctly one of the 2 parts need to come down to bring the timing at idol down!

 

Ok disregard the last post until I can give you some feedback. I’m sorry, I know I’m starting from page one and for you to have to try to explain it.

 

Read the link Larry posted....Its all there and very informative.

 

Will do, thank you guys again. I will reread it.

 

I did drive it and baby’d it. I’m a bit nervous to drive it with the vacuum advance hooked up. I took my timing gun at 1000rpm it was at 45* at 1300rpm it’s at 54*.
I don’t know if that means my vacuum canister is shot? If my timing without the vacuum advance was
9.8 and the vacuum advance can give as much as 18 and at 1300rpm I’m getting 54*
I read it your thread. I also watched multiple videos. I do not learn the best by reading. I understand the math. I’m assuming when you say plug the vacuum canister that means cap it or put something in the hose large enough to restrict the air flow coming off the vacuum canister? I saw a guy on a previous thread here say he used a golf ball t.

i want to start from the beginning. Plug the vacuum advance. I need to get a distributor wrench and loosen the bolt till it slightly turns. Start the car, I have a O marked on my timing cover.

this is where I’m lost. I want the timing gun to line with zero for doing initial timing. But what number do I want to see on the gun at that point if the distributor is turned slightly to meet the line at the zero?
Then once I get the initial timing to the 0 on my cover. I want to get the car holding at 2500rpm which will shoot the line up. While it’s at 2500rpm I’m going to set my timing gun for 34* and turn the distributor again until that I see 34* meeting again at the O mark and that will be my mechanical timing?? Tighten distributor down.

after that is done if I am understanding what your thread. Then unplug the vacuum advance and run it back to my T I have made?

check to see what the timing is again at initial. And when I have it under a load as well doing this all with the vacuum advance hooked up?