I just saw this thread. I was in downtown Portland this past weekend. I live in Olympia WA. Is the engine in the car on an engine stand? Do you have the assembly and break-in lube for the cam? Paul
Hi paul, yes its in the car, its a weekend cruiser and haven't disassembled anything yet. I had some heads rebuilt laat summer that I wanted to swap out for this summer. Have a cam that I thought would be a good thing to do while I was at it but dont know a thing about cam installs, so was thinking of just doing my heads for now and worring about the cam later. Thats where im at now with it. Haven't started anything yet, and no I dont have the break in lube yet either. Thanks
I use Joe Gibbs engine assembly grease. http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Gibbs-Driven-00732-Assembly/dp/B002MTTY0E do you have a dial indicator?
Thanks, is one tube all that is needed? No dial indicator either. But will get one, they don't look too spendy.
The one tube should be enough to lube the cam lobes and lifters. With the dial indicator you can do a quick check to see if you need a different timing chain set to get the cam timing correct. The TA 212 cam for the 350 is timed correctly when the #1 intake lifter is up .050" at 3 degrees BTDC You can check this using the harmonic balancer and a short length of coat hanger as a pointer If it is way off then it is time to get a multi key timing set so you can get it close. Amazon has some low cost dial indicator and magnetic base sets.
Ordered my paint, break in lube, and dial indicator. Im puting in a new rear glass this weekend so i might start tearing the heads off if i have time. Sorry if its a stupid question but, When the time comes, is it better to install the cam before the heads are on or after. Or does it matter?
The heads need to be off so you can indicate TDC off of piston #1 with the dial indicator. Otherwise you would need a piston stop. We are going to use the harmonic balancer as a degree wheel for the purpose of checking the cam timing. What I need to know is the exact diameter or circumference of your balancer. You will enjoy this operation. Paul
Thanks Larry. I still would like Matt to do an Exact measurement just to sure. As you know sometimes thing aren't what they should be.
This will be an enjoyable experience. It will be a good feeling to know i did it myself with all your help guys. I really appreciate it.
OK -This procedure is simply to see if the present timing gear set will work with the new cam providing the chain is still tight after 5000 miles. If not then it is time for a multi key roller chain timing gear set. We will be making 4 marks on the balancer with a thin tip marker. Two marks will be to zero the pointer and two to check the cam position. You can make these marks with the balancer off the crank before you start the following. The pointer can be made from a length of coat hanger that is pointed at one end with the other end bolted to the front of the block Use this thread as visual reference. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?220945-Camshaft-degreeing-101 To zero the pointer the dial indicator needs to be set in the center of piston#1 directly over the top of the connecting rod. Set the dial so it is at zero as the piston goes over TDC. Next you will be moving the piston up towards TDC by turning the crank clockwise and stopping .050" before TDC. Then approach TDC going counter clockwise again stopping .050" before. The reason for approaching TDC from both sides is to keep the connecting rod bearing in contact with the top of the crank rod journal by pushing the piston in both cases. If you push before TDC and then pull After TDC the connecting rod bearing clearance will throw the reading off. Mathematically when the piston is .050" down from TDC the crank is 11.5 degrees before and after TDC. The first two marks on the balancer will be 11.5 degrees before and after the timing notch. Since the circumference is 21.25", each degree is .059" multiplied by 11.5 degrees puts each mark .678" on each side of the balancer timing notch. Turn the crank CW and stop when the dial indicator is at .050" BTDC. Then bend the wire pointer to the first 11.5 degree mark. Then rotate the crank CCW till the indicator is .050" ATDC and the pointer should be at the second 11.5 degree mark. If the pointer is not quite on the marks you can repeat these steps while re-adjusting the pointer till it is the same distance from each mark. Now the piston is at TDC when the pointer lines up with the timing notch on the balancer. The 350 TA 212 cam needs to be set so the intake lobe center is at 106 degrees ATDC. This is done by checking the cam lobe lift when the lifter is up .050" after the valve opening point and .050" just before the valve closes as shown on the cam card. When the lobe is symmetrical the lobe center should be between the two points. Half of the 218 degree .050" duration is 109 (the center point). If you set that center at 106 degree ATDC the .050" lift point (106 - 109) will be at 3 degrees BTDC in one direction and (106+109) 215 ATDC in the other direction The first cam mark on the balancer is the .050" lift point at 3 degrees BTDC which is .059" X 3 or .177" before the timing notch going CW with the crank. The second is 215 degrees ATDC or 12.685" after the timing notch also going CW. Set the dial indicator by using an extension that rest on the edge of the #1 lifter as shown in the reference thread. Zero the dial when the lifter is down on the heel of the cam. It is important that the crank is always turned Clockwise for this part of the procedure so the chain slack is always on passenger side of the gear set, the same as when the engine is running. Turn the crank CW until the lifter just begins to rise and the dial reads .050". Then check to see how close it is to the mark. Continue turning CW. The lifter will rise and then fall until you get to the last .050" reading before it is on the cam heel again. Check to see how close it is from the mark. Repeat the procedure several time to see if your results are repeatable. When I'm done looking at the cam I like to set the dial indicator back on piston #1 and double check my pointer zero just to make sure it didn't get upset. The results will be up for discussion. The main thing is to have fun. Paul
Wow Paul that's some detailed information thank you! I'll definitely have to read through that a couple times, and take it one step at a time. I haven't gotten to remove the heads yet, haven't had much time today. Here's where im at so far ..
So did you mention what year heads your putting on? If they are not 68-69 heads then you will need to swap for matching year lifters,pushrods,and rockers.
My apologies for pointing this out, if the crank is turned CW the chain slack would be on the passenger side.
