Yes alec, they are 68-9 heads. How precision straight are the pushrods? A couple from the psgr head have a very slight wobble when rolled. Very slight, but noticeable. Is that normal? I would like to reuse them if possible and not have to spend more money on new ones.
No apologies needed. Thanks for reading the entire post and editing. The change is done. Matt The chain looks like it is fairly tight still?
Paul, Im not sure what is acceptable, but when I pinched the chain at its center point, it measured at about 1/4" total movement. Seemed to be in good shape and definitely doesnt look to be loose enough to jump a tooth.
What is the best way to clean out the head bolt holes? I got the right head off last night and the bolts came out pretty dirty. I dont have a tap and die set. Compressed air?
Go to autozone or menards and get a tap and some brake clean. 7/16 x14. Drop of oil on threads of bolt when installing bolt
Ummm, be careful using just any kind of a new tap on head bolt holes! Taps have different thread class fit, meaning the size of the threads may vary. If you take material from the block you might destroy the threads. A good low buck way is a bolt with a slot ground into the threads, parallel to the shank, to clean out the crud.
So just cut a slot running the length of the bolt? I bought all new head bolts, could I just use one of the old ones for this?
Even a small, round wire brush in a drill motor would do the clean out job also. Then compressed air to blow out the loose crap. :TU:
Yes. 2 works well too. Cut a bolt head off and you can chuck into a variable speed reversible 1/2" drill to run in and out quickly, blowing out the crud from the grooves with an air nozzle. Feed it in easy, then zip it. A thin cut-off wheel and a steady hand will cut the grooves nicely. Make it similar to a tap.
Heads are off. Haven't pulled the cam yet because the lifters are giving me trouble, whats the typical way to remove them? They get stuck when i try to pull them up and out with some pliers Have 2 out so far.
Varnish/oil buildup on bottom. Just have to work them , there is a tool that pulls them but pretty much a waste of money as they are not that great. Reach underneath and push the ones you can reach thru valley openings.
If you can get a thin blade screw drive under the plunger clip you can work the lifter up and down till it pops through.
If there are lots of miles on the engine the lifters may be concaved on the face and once they do that they start to mushroom a tiny amount which makes it very difficult to remove them. Vice grips are called for. Or you can try jamming all the lifters up into the top of their bore and then pull the cam out. At that point you can carefully push each one down into the cam tunnel and remove it through the lifter valley openings. You can usually catch them with your fingers but place a rag underneath each one you are trying to remove just in case. If it falls into the block that is lots more work. I know you can do this on a 455 but I'm not sure you can do it on a 350. If a lifter will go down through the openings one can come up, just a good bit trickier.
I just read something where someone took the cardboard tube from a wrapping paper roll and cut it open lengthwise, pushed all the lifters up so they stay, removed the cam and slid the opened tube into the cam tunnel to act as a catch, then pushed each lifter down and as they fell onto the cardboard he fished them out with a magnet extension. Haha seemed like a nifty trick
If the lifters are mushroomed or flanged from wear, and the cam is out, you can take a Dremel with a small mounted grinding wheel and turn each lifter while grinding a small bevel on lifter face corner. They will come right out the top. You will have some grinding grit to deal with, but if complete disassembly is happening it won't matter. Or you may have to come up with a method to catch all the grit!
Great ideas guys, thanks. I'll try to get to it tonight or tomorrow. Then I'll get to cleaning everything up. Hopefully my paint shows up so i can get things painted this weekend.
Well it looks like im buying a new cam after all. I cannot find my TA212 anywhere. Its deeply hidden in boxes somewhere and I have no clue. Since im getting another one, should I just go for the 212 again? Or is there a better choice? Keep in mind, bottom end is stock 68. heads have stage1 springs and larger exhaust valves. Stock rockers and push rods. No stall converter yet. I also have new lifters here. What would be my best choice? Ive cleaned up the engine best I could and painted heads. Cam should be my next step i guess. What do you think?
It seems that cam , crower level 2 or a custom Scott brown would be best for a stock engine. My personal suggestion is to mill at least .040 off heads and go with the ta 290 cam. Or mill .060 off(possibly 9.45 to 1) and you could use the crower level 3 or ta 284-88. The crower would probably net much more low end then the 284 with its higher dynamic compression. Would work well with 3.42 gears. You will need adjustable pushrods or .050 shorter ones . Just what I would do at this point as if you don't like it(but I doubt it) you could always find the 212 and change to it.
