I've cam swapped or pulled the cover for other reasons many, many times and never repacked the pump without issue. I wouldn't bother. If your oil pressure hasn't had a significant change then I would leave it alone for sure. Eight years is nothing, especially with a weekend warrior.
Thanks Joe, I figure the gears will be wet at the very least, and I have a good chance that it will prime with a drill. I can also put the driver's side wheel up on a ramp and try and fill the filter as much as possible to quicken the process. I can also put some oil in through the sender hole easily.
I pump oil in the sender with an outboard motor primer bulb and hose stuck in a qt of oil. Oil pressure jumps right up when you start. As you know I'm not a fan of Vaseline.....
I would fill the filter and install it as the last step right before you turn the key. I'm sure you'll be changing the oil with this job anyway. You'll have enough crank time waiting for the carb to get gas and you'll probably have to turn the distributor a little to get it fired off. I wouldn't bother turning it with a drill.
It might be, when JW built the motor, I think I sent him a painted pump. It's either that or the shading, or dirt.
Ahh man Larry stay focused and don't listen to the tiny Buick voices in your head (by that I mean this site) or you're gonna end up going down the rabbit hole on this one and the car will be in a zillion pieces for a concours resto
No worries, I decided that I might as well paint the parts of the motor that need it. The timing cover and water pump definitely need it.
I bought the compressor. Sill need the condenser, hoses, dryer and POA. Ahh, no, now would not be a good time.
I guess I didn’t realize that taking an oil pump apart was that hard?? Sheesh, easy-peasy and you can check some important stuff, but hey, it’s your time, your grade, your money! Petroleum jelly won’t bother anything. It melts very quickly. I have packed who knows how many pumps back in the day on 231’s, 350’s and 455’s. Never an issue. I do recall, however, trying to keep oil from drooling out trying to put the cover back on. If you use no sealer on the TC gasket, then it won’t be a problem, but you’ll likely be in the same boat again someday (split gasket). And keep in mind that JW has had his share of issues too..
Larry, whatever way you go with the priming, since you have the priming tool, you should use it. Again, all this is JMO.
Thanks Bob, I realize everyone has an opinion. I welcome them. I appreciate your advice always. Thanks again.
I like using a light spray of High Tack on both sides, to hold & keep TC gasket in place. I let it set up a bit before assembly. The important part is getting the cam end play set. It will change (tighten) when the long water pump thru bolts are torqued down, at least on a 350. I've always been able to prime pump using drill without petroleum jelly, with tight cover to gear clearances.... always more than one way to skin a cat. Worst part of the job is the slimey antifreeze. I hate that greazy crap.
I have the gaskets, both Felpro, and the SCE coming on Thursday. Seems like the ones JW used are the thicker GM, so the SCE should be the ones. I'll know when I pull it off. The Felpros are blue and a dead give away. The piece that blew out looks black/gray, so it is probably GM. I'll be sure to torque the bolts to 29 ft lbs.
Where did you get the compressor? I need to get one but wasn’t sure which is correct (70GS455). Thanks, Nick
