Yes, several times. I was amazed how easy it was to loosen the bolts the first time I took it off. I believe Jim told me to use 40 ft. lbs. and that is what TA recommends with aluminum intake and heads, so that is 15 ft. lbs looser than stock iron stuff.
I would insure that it is actually leaking from there.. and not running down from the corner of the intake.. have the cooling system pressure tested. The broken off piece of gasket is most likely just the overhang that is not touching the cover.. and not likely an issue. Check the bolt torque on the timing cover bolts. And if it is leaking, a timing cover gasket is a half day project, maybe more if you have a few cold ones. JW
I'm just in shock seeing "the Wizard" ask the rest of us for help on something. You're the guy that always helps everyone else.
Did all of that Jim. I was hoping it was the intake, but no go. I left the system filled, and you could actually see it seeping from between the cover and block. I would wipe it away and it would well right back up. If you look closely at the gasket, you can see the painted portion of the gasket, and the part that pushed out. First thing I did was check all the bolts, and they are tight. Oh well, after 8 years, that gasket doesn't owe me anything. Well, everybody could use some support now and then. I don't know everything, but the last time I did this job, it was on my 350 many moons ago. I'll get it done. Just thought I would post here for tips and tricks to this job. Never is a bad idea to get other opinions and experiences.
Just realized I only have the 2 short bolts at the front of the pan. I have an SRE pan. Guess Steve does't make his covers with 4 bolts in the front.
So I had a very similar leak.....but on the otherside of the timing cover. Same thing, gasket kind of fell apart. What I did was clean it extremely well with some brakekleen. Then I sparingly worked in some jb weld. Very little, but just enough to fill in the space. Has not leaked again in two years now. Just another option so u can wait till winter to pull the cover. The little amount u use certainly can be cleaned off when pulled
Thanks Jason, I toyed with the idea of doing that, but I think I'll pull it apart. Clean everything and repaint where I need to. It's under cooling system pressure, so I would worry about it letting go at an inopportune moment.
Even the most knowledgeable people still seek knowledge in times of need! That being said I'm still shocked too
1. Finest thread sealer I ever used is some version of the Loctite/Permatex "PST". "PST" used to mean "Pipe Sealer with Teflon", but apparently they've quit using genuine DuPont Teflon in favor of generic PTFE. The three most common varieties are 565, 567, and 592. This is NOT the same as the cheap, brush-cap tubs of "Teflon" pipe-thread sealer which makes a fair gasket dressing but is worthless on pipe or bolt threads. At any rate, most automotive parts stores have "592". It's anaerobic--similar to thread-locking compounds--and seals pipe thread or bolt thread exceedingly well, and protects the threads from corrosion. Has a distinctive odor. Fairly sure they "custom label" this for ARP. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-483630-Thread-Sealant-50-Mililiter/dp/B0002KKTH2 2. Another thing to consider, is "518" INSTEAD of a front-cover gasket. Anaerobic, specifically for sealing joints between two rigid castings. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-2096...octite+518&qid=1598838485&s=automotive&sr=1-2
I am a fan of 518, have used it for about 20 years with success. The syringe type are really easy to lay a thin bead and it doesn't skin quickly like rtv or silicon so you have setup time. It's fine on true mating surfaces without a gasket but i use it on metal and paper gaskets too. A light bead on both sides then smear - work it over the entire surface between thumb & forefinger to get an even skin on the gasket. This keeps squeeze out mess to a minimum, seals every time (holds fingers to forehead - touching wood) and put some on threads that,go into water or oil to seal them without concern of different sealers having an undesired reaction. Comes apart easily many race seasons later too with minimal clean up to the point i have considered re using gaskets. I the case of a BBB timing cover i would NOT delete the gasket. It will change the preload of the cam bumper of your roller cam as well as the alignment of the distributor gear and mechanical fuel pump. Around the edge of the sump gasket to t/c (and the china wall of the intake) i would use a good FIPG sealer or rtv. Crikey giving the wizard advice
WOW, Engines are suppose to be pulled and rebuilt every 2 years, your waaaaay over due for an overhaul
I feel your pain Larry, but it could be worse. My timing cover gasket failed several years ago, because I did not use any RTV around the water ports. Bad thing is it leaked far more on the inside than on the outside and dumped several quarts of coolant into the crankcase. What a mess! Shut it down when the temperature gauge hit 215* and noticed steam pouring out of the breather. Had no choice but to replace the gasket, and flush out the motor. I was just relieved it was not a cracked head or block or blown head gasket. Motor seems just fine now.
Larry, I am about 90% sure that timing cover gasket was one of the GM ones that TA was selling here a while back.. they were a touch thicker, and with your roller cam, we need to make sure we use the same thickness gasket... if they don't have them anymore, then SCE makes a timing cover gasket that is thicker, and that would be the one to use. you will know when you pull it apart, the other option would be the blue fel pro.. And even with the gasket dressing I put on them, the color would still be evident. And yes, there are 4 bolts not used in the front of an SRE pan. Two in the cover, and two on the rail, and this has not been an issue in the past. JW
You pulled the whole motor for this job ?!?!? Didn't you get the extra 10yr/100K mile warranty from JW on your motor ? with that he flys in, does the wrenching and takes YOU out for dinner .. all included
I ordered the Felpro TCS 45002 from Rockauto. Probably won't be here till Thursday according to Fed Ex. Is this the one you are talking about Jim?, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI6saA2dDF6wIVzZ6zCh2rDwhfEAQYASABEgICjPD_BwE They say .032" thick, https://www.scegaskets.com/store/bu...-block-gaskets/sce-gaskets-part-number-17100/ I was going to use Indian Head gasket shellac between the gasket and block, and then maybe a thin coat of RTV on the TC side.
