Hey MHGS, I will have the Buick out of storage on Tuesday. Let me know when is a good time for you to swing by. thanks
tried responding....your box is full.....I will bring a compression tester, We can start with that to make sure all is good inside. What time are you home ?
Shoot, i'll clear some things out. I'll be home around 5:30. The car will be warmed up. Should I start removing plugs or just the #1 plug? thanks, see you later.
Thanks again for the help. I got the parts coming in at noon from Napa Auto. I slap them in today and hopefully that will fix the shake in the engine. Do you run a choke on your carb?
no sweat...it'll get there. We did all the cylinders and all were +/- 135lbs. which is not too bad... Upon further inspection we found a fairly worn cap and rotor hich is most likely the rough engine culprit. Replace thse along with a new set of wires and I think it's gonna run alot better ! No I run no choke...But then again it's either on or off the throttle anyways so why bother.....:3gears:
You have to bring your car and let it scream around San Jose some time. Every Wednesday Night! http://www.examiner.com/article/mid-week-old-car-get-together-santa-clara-every-wednesday
OK, I just installed the new car and rotor, triple checked the plug wires and fired it up. The car still has that shake at idle. When in drive, its rough, almost died once until i gave it gas. When i bring the rpms up it sounds healthy with a minor tick and there is no back firing. I can still hear a minor clacking sound. Im beginning to think it's maybe a vacuum leak? What are the signs of a bad head gasket other than coolant loss? Im assuming a blown manifold gasket would result in major coolant on the engine department. MHGS, i dont want to keep taking up your time. Maybe i should take it to the mechanics that rebuilt it? Although i'd like to figure this out on my own (with help of course) ou: ---------- Post added at 09:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ---------- Another note i should add The car had been running hot for about a week due to a clogged radiator. I had it flushed and the car ran back at normal temperature. 165-190* Today when running the car, it came up to operating temp within 3 minutes.
The motor getting to operating temp yesterday that quick is not bad considering it was 100 plus degrees outside, And with your cylinder numbers the head gaskets should be fine. The small " clacking ' noises are pretty normal for that old a motor, even thought it's been rebuilt...Not all the parts in that thing are new and there are some parts that are not in perfect condition. I wouldn't worry about those.. There could be a small vacuum leak and the only way were going to get rid of it if there is .....remove and replace the intake and it's gaskets. We can do that if you'd like, Really not that big an issue. I never have liked the way buick used the steel gasket anyways and I have always used a fiber gasket instead . I would be more than happy to help you replace that if you'd like. ?
How involved of a process is it to replace the intake manifold gasket? I'd have to drain the radiator right/coolant? Considering one cylinder was 125, could there be an issue there? The thing that bothers me the most is that prior to the 5th of May, the car was perfect. Smooth idle, no shake, no noise. Then a week later things started going awry once the engine was driving at 210-220*
Not too worried about the 125 vs 135 difference, Didn't know that you hade it that hot though...... Not that it's horrible but you could have warped the intake enough to create a vac leak.
I think that could be an issue. Warped the metal itself or the gasket? I just know that ever since then it hasnt run the same.
Sounds like an intake gasket leak to me... I would remove the intake and start over with a new gasket. Make sure everything is cleaned up really well, and make sure you torque the intake in the right sequence and to the right spec with oil on the threads of the bolts. Also make sure the threads in the heads are clean, otherwise you will get incorrect torque readings.
Ok thanks. Maybe i will tackle this on Sunday. Or at least get it disassembled and cleaned up. What is a good brand for non-metal gaskets? Rock auto has some felpro gaskets for $11, but no designation if they are rubber or not. Motor oil on the threads? What else do i need? Silicone sealant? thanks, im hoping this will work. ---------- Post added at 09:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 PM ---------- Rock auto has these 2 products with a rubber seal for the rear and front of the manifold FEL-PRO Part # MS99901 VICTOR REINZ Part # MS15144X Suggestions?
If this is a Buick 350 then use the AMP metal valley cover or cut up your old gasket so it just covers the bottom of the intake. Then use the TA composite gaskets. You can also buy gasket material and cut out your own gaskets. AMP: http://www.automachperf.com/CustomerRides.html Many of us use the felpro rubber at the front and back but trim them a little slimmer with an exacto knife. I use the "the right stuff" gasket sealant it works GREAT! Be sure to use some on the corners of the rubber where it meets to the heads. I also use it on the coolant ports both on the intake and the head surfaces but only a little thin skim not much. Some people prefer to use just sealant instead of the rubber peices, I like the rubber. I also only torque the bolts to about 20 foot pounds, let the Sealant cure overnight then torque to spec the next day. Otherwise I find the rubber parts spit out the back. Just how I do it but it works well.
Was reading last night,,, Need you to look at your carb base gasket....seems the 340 is pretty notorious for eating those from the heat passage. Am wondering if that could be a bad source of problems prior to removing the intake. Another thing....And maybe some guys with 340's can chime in, Is the pcv valve on the valve cover normally for these motors ? I know the 350 has it in the manifold, yours is in the cover if thats correct then we are all good. Just seems you have a ton of vacuum from the carb to the pcv...and maybe was rerouted .
The gasket for the carb is brand new after the rebuild, and the "vacuum" issue was occuring before i replaced it. Is it a matter of adding some "the right stuff" sealant to the underside of the carb gasket, then torquing it down to 20ft/lb's or whatever the spec is? Then seeing if that works? Maybe even doubling up the gasket as i've read before. ---------- Post added at 08:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 AM ---------- Unfortunately it's a stock 340cui, so composite or performance gaskets are hard to come by. The only i can find are felpro and there is no indication if they are metal or composite. I've contacted rock auto to see if they can inform me. Maybe cutting my own gaskets would be in order and using a rubber neoprene seal for the front and rear. If in fact the carburetor issue does not solve the vacuum problem. What is the best kind i should get? What is the purpose of trimming the rubber slimmer?
I believe you have the gasket replaced....but I'm wondering if you have the heat shield there, which would prevent the gasket from being eaten by the heat....see the attached. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-1966-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53ed15a4cf
