I would go out and get a small vinyl graphic made up, that said "Buick", and put in on the flat area of the coil cover.. Or better yet a small factory emblem that said Buick.. 9 out of 10 folks would never know the difference. The 10th guy would, after sucking your doors off with his BBB powered 65... :grin: Seriously, good luck with it. JW
Nice work, Steven. Can't wait to see it at the BOP show this year. Hopefully, I"ll have better paint on my 67, even though it'll proibably still be flat black. I'll be keeping an eye on your progress as well. :TU: -Josh
It does....just not the ones most of us are used to. Certainly more so than a traditional sbc engine. Think Series II 3800 Buick V6.
Steven, Subscribed! The motor looks great and sounds like it will be a strong contender. Did you change the serpentine belt setup, it looks different from the factory truck engine setups? Tell me the aftermarket climate control has a/c? It looks like you have a lot of space to work around the car, even more with the clip off. :TU:
In my opinion this is THE swap for these cars if you are going to do one. There will be more and more as time goes on. Congratulations to you, you should love it. Peace, Mike D.
I put LS6 brackets and accessories on the engine. The truck set up puts the alternator way up high and it looks hideous.
Tagging along to watch the progress. I want to see how she runs - maybe I'll get the bug to put and LSX in a 240-Z. I won't knock you for the Chevy engine, though I may just build me a '64-65 2-door post Special with a dual-quad 425, 4-speed, and poverty caps for my next road trip to FL. :grin:
The 300 is out. I spent the most of the evening pressure cleaning and degreasing. Nearly 50 years of greasy sludge does not surrender without a fight! One very reliable and very leaky 300 engine and ST300 trans for sale........ Cheap! :laugh:
The firewall is all prepped and taped. Just have to bag it and throw it in the booth. I am just amazed taking this front sheet metal apart. How does a car make it nearly 50 years with no damage to the front of the car anywhere? Pretty amazing. I have a small pile of parts to go to the sandblaster. The wheel houses have mondo undercoating and the core support has a lot of surface rust on the battery side. Only surface rust though. All of the bolts came out easy and smooth. So, just a sandblast paint and reassemble. I have to try to locate some fun little items like the plastic retainers that attach the wiring harness to the upper tie bar, the plastic retainers that hold the wiring harness to the left wheel house, radiator mount rubber insulators, windshield wiper motor gasket, hood adjuster bumpers, 1" firewall plastic plugs, and maybe some hood hinges. I smashed the rivets until the hinges were tight again, but I don't know how long that fix will last.
They are all FI from the factory, however Edelbrock and GMPP sell 4 barrel intakes and MSD makes an ignition control module based on the 7AL that just plugs in to the factory crank and cam sensors. You just plug it in an go.
GM makes a timing cover that accomodates a real distributor (Ford sb unit) up front. It points straight up, but it is close enough to fool the cruise night crowd, who probably haven't seen a real Buick v8 in 15 years. Paint that sucker Buick Red, throw a distributor on it, and lie like a rug to the uninformed! I can't see how you could do better than LS power with that swap. Thanks for the photos. Rudy.
The problem with the distributor set up is that it moves the timing cover forward so the water pump needs spacers. Then none of the pulleys line up. So very few people run the distributor set up on the street because you end up using an electric water pump.
Yeah, the dizzy drive is just for classes that require a traditional ignition. There is certainly no point going that route for what you are doing here. Your factory set up is the best, most trouble free combo you can find. That old car is going to be a LOT of fun, that's for sure! Thanks, Rudy.
