The Engine Swap Begins - LSX

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by speedtigger, Mar 15, 2011.

  1. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    I am now updating the wiring harness, installing the MSD and picking my radiator hoses.

    I hope to run the engine this weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    doing a great job Steve! Wish I had your time!
     
  3. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    Video? :grin:
     
  4. staged70

    staged70 RIP

    How about links to the places where you got wiring , mounts, hedders brackets ect. This looks to be the way to go if you need fuel economy and power in an old ca. I am thinking that a stock 6.0 would be a great engine for an old car like a Sportwagon.
    Why not go FI is it a lot harder to get computer/wiring interface to work?
     
  5. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    There are details galore here:
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conve...5-skylark-lq9-retrofit-swap-build-thread.html

    Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fire her up. :beers2:
     
  6. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    Nibbling away. Getting closers.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    WOW!
    great progress man.
     
  8. staged70

    staged70 RIP

    Hell I am getting excited for you:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
     
  9. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    A 66 Riv? Please don't.:spank: :Do No:
     
  10. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Car is looking great! I love those valve covers too, but where are the coil packs hiding?
     
  11. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    Those are actually not valve covers. They are coil covers. :laugh:
     
  12. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    It lives!

    Here is a video. As with all cell phone videos with open exhaust, the microphone cannot handle these sound levels.

    <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/tORGDHEzh14" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
     
  13. Mister T

    Mister T Just truckin' around

    :beer :beer Sounds great, regardless of the cell phone camera microphone.
     
  14. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    Looks and sounds great Steve. Can't wait to see it in person. Must be nice to not have to break in the cam.
     
  15. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    Thanx guys.

    Yes Bill, it sure is great not to have to worry about the break in. One less thing to stress about.

    After a new motor, transmission, steering lines, fuel lines and cooling system, not a single drop of anything leaked when I fired it up. I was very happy.

    The oil pressure went to 25 pounds just cranking the engine over before I turned the fuel on. When I turned on the fuel pump, the fuel pressure went straight to 6 pounds and the engine fired immediately with a touch of the key. It all went very smooth. I did my best to take my time with all the details during the build and install.
     
  16. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    That does sound great!
    What are the next steps?
     
  17. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    I have to build the exhaust, put the doghouse back on and some wiring here and there.
     
  18. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    You make it sound and look easy :beer
     
  19. MGSCP

    MGSCP Guest

    Hey Steve

    tell me more about the indash tach......what type and how did you mount it....:idea2:
     
  20. speedtigger

    speedtigger 9 Second Club

    That stuff is very easy compared to some of the other fabrication involved in the project. The motor mounts and all custom bend fuel and transmission lines were more challenging for me.

    There is a thread or two on here about it if you can find it with search. Basically, you buy the gauge of your choice, Autometer in this case, then you remove the lens retainer ring and lens, remove the pointer needle and face, cut a hole in your clock place holder and put the shaft through that hole and re-affix the faceplate and pointer needle. Re-install and then wire it up.
     

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