We know the back will have a lower oil pressure reading then up front. We didn't want a big nasty blob of stuff hangin off the side of the block. (Nipple, tee, pressure switch, and another pressure sender.) So using the back oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, or an electronic style if I can find it...and just using the front with the stock pressure switch...which does nothing but turn a warning light on and off...if the bulb isn't burnt out.
Pic from underneath. Pic up top. Not much shows with rad hose connected. Run all mechanicals, no sender that way.
I'm not familiar with ipads. They probably work like my iphone. I've never posted pics from my imgur account with my phone. Take that link I quoted above and place it between [ img ] and [ /img ] with the brackets and no spaces. It should post the pic.
Started running the new fuel line from the passenger side front, to the back, in 1/2" stainless. Not sure how to get the new line run behind/under the rear spring and shock mount...may have to use a small bit of 1/2" I.D hose, and fish it through, as it's not getting a frame off for a few years...if ever. (That's the only way to remove the tube clamps screws...lift the body off.) Pulled out the vapour canister, and the line to it, as that is where I'm running the new line, but coming up between the headers and the heater core, so the fuel supply is already on the passenger side, and easier to hook up. Going to try to do a back pressure setup. So instead of having fuel up to the regulator, and then regulate it down to 7psi BEFORE the carb, the regulator will be installed AFTER the carb, which will maintain 7psi on the entire fuel loop, and return anything over that, back to the tank.
Clearance between ring gear and rear oil pressure fitting. SFI approved ring gear. From behind. (If you look close, you can see the arrows scribed onto the crank and ring gear, for proper orientation/balance) Used ARP bolts on the ring gear as well. New JW 9 1/2" torque converter.
We got the engine into the car today. Haydn learned a few new words from me, but overall a good day. Ran new fuel line to rear of car. Ran a 8ga power wire for the new Holley black pump from the front of the car to the back. Ran a short new 3/8" stainless steel line for tying in the regulated return line, to the old stock fuel line. Installed torque converter. (Filled with half a quart of dextron III) Installed engine. Coupled transmission to block, and connected the torque converter to the ring gear. Doesn't sound like much, but that was pretty much the day...I have a crappy headache now, so I threw in the towel for the day, and just update the thread.
Yeah, I'm not sure who is more excited, myself, or Haydn. He's still out in the shop tinkering away, finishing some small stuff up...I had to call it a day. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like with the cam, headers, and 2 1/2" exhaust!
Very cool!!! I cant wait to see the car in person!!! I can drive my car halfway and we can take some pics of them together!
Not to get to sidetracked: Wife and I went for "Cupping" yesterday. "Let's try Cupping", she said.... "It'll be fun!" She said.... I'm a little sore in the neck today...
Yeah, it hurt a lot at first, but then it calmed down a bit. Just came in from the shop, as I was getting ready for bed, and got pulled in again... Need to pick up a couple of fittings to move the heater core hose on the intake, as the fuel line runs right into it. Couple gallons of coolant required to, as the old block had what looked like mud in it.
You'll probably want to flush that garbage out of the heater core if in you haven't already done that. That balance tube you made for the back of the intake really looks nice but isn't necessary, plug the driver's side and use the passengers side for the heater core. The only reason the factory moved it from the back to the front is because the heater core would get hotter coolant from the front. I would of posted that in the thread about this but both of my computers had dead hard drives at that time and I still wield a flip phone so......(if you were even following that thread?)
Guess using the rear pass side coolant tap will eliminate the coolant fitting being in the way of the fuel line. I may do that just to have the option of running no spacer. I did some measuring and it looks like I just might be able to use my 2" Wilson copy spacer on top of the SP3, with a 3" filter, using my L88 drop base bottom, and will still be able to close the GS hood. I want that tunnel ram effect!
We went with the air cleaner base that was almost level on the bottom...no drop...I hate it when linkages from the carb hit or rub the bottom of the base, and I like the fact you're not creating a restriction for the air flow. Have a look at how much of the filter is facing the drop base portion. If the top of the filter lid is level...and the bottom of the base comes up 2", then there is only 1" of area for the air to move around the drop base, and into the top of the carb.
We can't use the back water jacket fitting either, cuz the fuel line will be coming in from the rear, and out the front, circling around, and going to the regulator. There's too much going on in the back as well. MSD box, wiring harness, fuel supply, fuel return, choke cable, transmission cable, PCV vent...
Am I remembering it right, that if we run a carb spacer at all...get the four hole model, not the open? (Holley square bore)
I would say you are best off to start without a spacer and then try both an open and 4 hole spacer and see which the combo likes.... Too many factors. in theory the 4 hole spacer SHOULD be better for low RPM torque.
