Bought this one many years ago, fit very well, Filler neck is attached already. https://www.opgi-static.com/common/ADGM34H-lrg.jpg?v=4820150848 https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1971/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/ADGM34H/
I was @ work, and left my son with extra jobs to do while I was gone. A while back, I posted that the wiring from the front block on the firewall was butchered up, as the guy had power running to the coolant switch, and no wire at all on the oil pressure switch. Haydn got the oil scraper installed, oil pickup tube, and oil pan installed. Old fuel tank pulled out, and engine bay degreased. Would love to run an EF I setup, but too much $$$ right now. (Haydn starts college next month) Also need to pick up some fire sleeve for the starter wires, as they need some attention too.
For the new tank, it was too good of a deal to pass up. (It's new, it fits, its ceramic coated, and its local) We were going to get a couple of bungs welded in for fuel pick ups, but will wait now until the new fuel sender, and draw tube show up...at least they have the gaskets, and bolts, and correct lengths for the application. (Bolt on) Don't really want to have to remove the coating too badly, so we will wait to see if there is an easier solution.
New fuel pick up, and fuel level sender is here. I don't think we need to weld anything at all now. The new fuel pick up has two 1/2" o.d tubes for suction, so we will tie those together, and feed the pump with them. (Holley Black pump has a 3/8" female inlet and outlet.) Had to but a different regulator, as we want to have a return loop back to the tank. Couple concerns now...we used the old splash tray in the lifter valley when we installed the TA SP-3 intake on the old engine. It was a hack job, but it worked. But now my son and I are arguing over using a new tray, which is still used, but in way better shape, and doing it the way TA says to do it. (Only if using a 2 piece gasket set) -I do not agree with having the tin around the water ports of the heads, because I feel it will just hold the heads and intake away from each other. (If the tin is 0.015" thick, and the intake gasket is 0.015" thick, the intake will be 0.030" away from the heads...then when you torque it down, it will only crush until it hits the tin....now the water ports are sealed, but none of the intake ports are sealed, as the intake is still 0.015" away!) my logic anyway. -So Haydn cut off both intake sides of the tray, and is now pissed, because it won't stay in place. (I fixed it...just needed to straighten the cut lines.) -I look at the intake, and I'm like, "why do we even need the tray?" The intake runner ports on the intake are all off the bottom of the intake itself, so the only reason is to keep oil from being sucked out through the PCV? -we also goofed on the water pump...had to get a 1/2" spacer made to go between the pump, and the water pump pulley, so the belts will line up. -just a bunch of little things getting in the way, but we are still moving forward, so that's good.
.......just thought of something.....why not just run a line from what would be the PVC port on the intake, and run it to a remote can and filter? Why suck that oil back through the carb?
If you go look at my pics next to the last page I did a whole article on the Valley pan set up. I bought mine from AM&P and worked great. This is in my installing the SP3. I do not run the PVC I used hoses that run from the valve cover to diverter valves at the headers. I use a push in filter at the back and used another push in breather in the front with a hose connected to it and ran that to the headers on both sides. You can get it at Summit Racing.
Working on port matching the intake, and be damned if TA Performance didn't put a couple of threaded bosses under the intake, right under the PCV location. We made a small plate out of a chunk of metal we cut from the old intake tray, and attached it right under the PCV. (It acts like a deflector shield.) Gonna run a catch can and filter....or just a remote filter. Also added a balance line to the back water ports on the intake using 1/2" stainless steel tubing. And added a rear oil pressure port: -Removed the 1/4"npt Allen plug from the passenger side rear of the block. -added a 1/4" stainless steel 90* fitting. -drilled a 7/16" hole through the block flange on the drivers side rear and tapped it to 1/4" npt. -installed a drilled out 1/4" stainless steel straight fitting. (This allows the tubing to pass through the block with no rubbing, once the ferrule is swedged.) -then the tubing ends with a 1/4" female npt fitting for a sender.
I will take some pictures today, and try to get them on here. Screw photobucket's randsom of $400/year to post pictures.
If you click on the pics you load into imgur you will see the different link options available. Copy the BB code link and post it here and your pic will show up. That's looking really good BTW.
I asked about doing a balance line on the SP3 and was told it was a waste of time. Seems to me like a good idea.
Thanks Short_Crank for the info. I'll use the different links next time. Dauntless: I read a bit about them and thought, why not....it's out, and bows the time. We went with 90* fittings to keep the water level lower then the front radiator hose connection on the intake.
Q I'm not seeing a different link....(I'm on an iPad) I'd like to post all the pictures... If I tap on the picture, it opens up, and it still only says "copy link"...it doesn't give the actual code.
I can see all 4 original posted pics on my Tab S. Looks real nice, stainless and clean. Don't know if it's necessary or not.
What do you think of the oil pressure line in the back of the block? (We just plugged the line for now, until the engine is in...then we will hook it up to a gauge, and prime the engine.)
Guess you will just have two different points for reading pressure, and need two gages now! I run two, one mechanical and the electric sender factory rally gage in dash. They are just tee'd up front, like Larrys. What would you do if you have different readings, front to back?
