Thanks Joe ...I cant fit the only stock fan and clutch I have in my 300 shroud- it hits the shroud at the top ...the 17" flex and spal should move enough air,,,,if these recent changes dont help (pulley +17") I will then have to go find a 17" factory fan that will fit and put it on my clutch.....my temp sender is in front too. What initial timing are you running and what cam do you have ? As always thanks J.
My cam is a C113. Now for the timing I had it set to 36 deg at full advance but I have since moved it a tad and haven't put a light on it yet.ou: Stage 1 heads ported. And everything is port matched. Oh I have an 8 quart oil pan also.:TU:
10-20-07....Ta overdrive water pump pulley didnt arrive ...I decided to try some things to get it to run cooler anyway ....I put the 17" flex fan in...left the 160 stat in ..pulled 3 degrees initial timing out of it now at 12 and tried an experiment...my water pump heater hose line that was capped -I ran a hose from it to the back of the Edelbrock intake.....it seemed like it ran cooler for awhile.....it took alot longer to reach 205-210 running around the block after 1/2 hr. Anyway what was scary was I went out back and felt each exhaust stream and the passenger side was really hot compared to drivers side... Can someone else please try this and tell me if passenger side runs naturally hotter ? Anyway...just for the hell of it I got my ir thermometer and shot some intake and radiator readings...Im seeing 18 degrees difference between gauge and ir readings....is this normal ? I am beginning to think I am chasing dragons here and I may have a bad gauge and I am probably running 185-195. Tomorrow I am pulling the gauge and putting it in a pan of water to see if 212 matches up with a candy thermometer I have. If anybody has some insight into if that extra heater hose and if thats not a good idea ie whats causing the passenger side to feel hotter let me know..... I think to be safe I will yank that hose tomorrow. I think I also remember the thermostatic switch being a 180 and remembering wow thats accurate and it comes on right when they say it does ....today I noticed it came on at 200 so either the gauge has changed or the switch turn on point has changed. I am willing to bet its my gauge thats jacked up and I am running o.k. ...its a cheapie suntune......J
First throw out that gauge:spank: and get an autometer or something comperable. Now for 1 side running hotter, the only reason I could possibly guess is blocked up water jackets!!o No: I had this happen but it was the back of both sides that got blocked. Now 200- 210 isn't a problem. Pretty normal for a 400 500 hp BBB.:3gears: What combo are you running and have these heads been refurbished latley?
The Stage 1 heads are fresh from Tri Shield Performance....Combo is 9.3:1, Edelbrock Performer,TA 288-94h installed +6 adv ,Edelbrock 800 Thunder series, Ta oil pump kit ~25 psi at hot idle, Ta oil pan , March underdrive water pump pulley,Alumitech radiator,large single spal puller,17" flex fan,67 shroud,160 stat, Temp sender up front left, 2:56 gear,2500 Coan custom max perf,Msd rtr dist. 12 initial (was 15) ,18 mechanical bushing ,vac limited to +8, vac is hooked to ported (was hooked to full) ,1 wire alt. J
Well I put the cheapie SunTune gauge in a pan on my stove this am and sure enough its 15-28 degrees + off from around 170 and upwards .....luckily I had another gauge laying around so I compared it to that , my ir digital gauge and a candy thermometer I had .....there is about 5 degrees variance among all the devices but the suntune is way off...so today I will install the good gauge that works and head out around the block and see what temp readings I have. I should be lower ....I also read last night about coolant direction flow in the buick v8 and that rig I came up with putting the heater hose into the water pump was stupid...it was just dumping hot water back into the pump so I pulled it off this am too. J
Well she ran 190 -210 during my short cruises today here in the Florida heat ! When I install the TA overdrive pulley I should be great as far as temp goes. So I gigged it today while I was out from 35 mph...it backfired 2 times through the carb then climbed normally. So I guess I have some timing / carb tuning to do. I tried adjusting the accelerator pump shot at all 3 settings and at the smallest shot it popped the least when gigging it. Quickly I tried ported vac vs non ported - full manifold and it still popped when gigging it from 35 mph . So I went after the advance springs...they were the heaviest springs so I went to medium blue but then it started to rain. There is no way I was going to gig this thing on a wet road...even with 2:56 and and an extremely lazy spark curve this thing has some power - better than my 70 small valve 455 I built back in the 80's. I am taking my time before nailing it from a dead stop...its been a long road and I dont want to get thrashing on this thing until I have some easy break in miles on it and have a quick peak at my rear end with the cover off. Will let you know what fixes the carb popping. My theory is its loading up due to 2:56 and heavy advance springs- needs more tip in advance. I have a bigger problem though. My 17" rims, 2" drop spindles and brand new 401 springs arent a good match. I need to get some spring helpers in there to raise the ride height. They wont turn in due to the coil stack being so tight...so I am going to have to take apart the front suspension again and drop it to get the 1" spring helpers in there. J .
How can you run 2 in drop spindles with headers??????? I put new springs( 65 impala w/ac ) and 17's and I haven't bottomed out yet!!! I am very careful of the woopy do's on the road though. I also believe in some break in time but I could never get any traction on the street from a dead stop. They would just spin for a week. But at 40 mph hit 2nd and watch the front end come up!!! Better than sex!!!
Cool.....I am sure I wont have any traction either even with the 2:56.....Re: 2 inch drop - I didnt run headers ....I guess these 401 springs werent the ticket... ? Do you have a pic of your cars stance ? J .
\ Fore some reason the site won't let me post pictures twice?? Don't know why. So go to the " The Hides " section and find the thread with Coy Wheels C-55. I have pice up in there.
Joe it looks great ...I would leave your back tires the size they are ......I have 45's on the back of mine and its not 60's looking enough for me .....I like a little more sidewall in the back like you have ..... ....when it stops raining I will take some pics of mine and show you ...heres one in the meantime of my stance .... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=126187 .J .
10-27-07 Its running almost 100% with the lighter blue advance springs in there..so it was advance causing the sputter ....took it for a spin today and she ran 185- 195 ...I am going to go lighter on one advance spring tomorrow if its not raining and see what gives...I think it will be dialed in as far as advance goes.....as far as the 17 inch rims and 2" drop spindles rubbing I am cutting 4" out of each outside of the wheel houses ......from the engine compartment you shouldnt be able to see the cut at all but under the wheel well where its rubbing it should take care of the problem- wish me luck.....I got the idea from someone else here on the board that did the same thing...heres a pic of the engine in the car today outside.......Thanks J.
An engine will surge from too much advance. This happens alot when using light springs without limiting the vacuum advance. Have you checked your total advance using light springs and the vacuum advance disconnected?
Have been trying to work out the rubbing issue on the front tires...spring helpers really helped a little but I ended up cutting the fenderwells under the fender ...so when you look at the engine compartment it still looks stock - wheelhouses are still intact. It still isnt good enough rubs when you go over a harsh bump at top of wheelhouse....So the 401 springs / 455 are allowing too much squat over bumps with 2.5 " drop ...I am thinking of ordering a different heavy spring -its a moog spring 5256 its stiffer but has the same installed height .....they are less than $100 delivered so I may order it today ....still havent nailed her from a dead stop yet ...just putting miles on it and driving it further and further each day. I am probably going to go to the Gainesville show in December. That will be the longest trip so far but only if I get these new springs in as the rubbing over a bump is horrendous.....J
I also have a problem with tire rub. I used big block springs from CPP and they still rub. Please let us know if the moog springs work.
Well I got my fan shroud,radiator, and top plate modified to fit into my 64 skylark convertible. I used everything out of a 67 GS400 and TA frame pads. The stock fan has about 1/2 inch all the way around. Now its the Mallory box next. I hope it runs cool. It make 520hp on the dyno and 560 TQ:3gears: I hate work it keeps me from what I enjoy!
