I bought mine from Inline for my 64 and had to make a few adjustments but it came with no instructions. I had my body off the frame so it was easier. I know there are did sized fittings depending on the line location. I had to use a reducer in the back for the rear rubber line but they included that.
Thanks guys I know it has been a bad experience with them for me too I am afraid...it turns out their line from front to back is a 2 piece line...Joe65 and I talked on the phone today and his kit from them had a two piecer...I found the second line and its "coupler" which was only machined on one side BUT NOT THE OTHER- so much for quality control.....so I ran to 3 parts stores and finally found a coupler. As far as their pre bent lines...the drivers side front line from master cylinder to caliper looks awkward-had to rebend it myself - will fab my own later ....the others were all close ..... .....Joe65's says his kit from them installed fine but mine has been troublesome. I tried bleeding things myself after getting it all installed with no luck as I still have no pedal. I will try and get a friend over Tuesday and bleed these things good and see if I finally have brakes and finally get to take this thing for a spin .:af: :blast:
I was running a 72 8.5 rear so i ordered a set of brake liones for that application and they werent even close. the front lines were so badly off even after they sent me a second set that i quit calling and just chalked the 275.00 i paid them up as a lesson learned.
Update 10-9-07 I bought one man speed bleeders tonight and bled the brakes myself. I noticed pretty severe leaks from the banjo fittings on both calipers where the rubber line goes into the caliper - aaargh. So I really had to crank those bolts down to get the copper washers to bite and stop the leaks...it looks like its not leaking now. It was too late to fire it up and I didnt want to tick the neighbors off so I should be able to take it around the block tomorrow for the first time ever barring no unforseen problems.
Update 10-9-07.....I HATE MY CAR ....the new disc brakes and master cylinder which were all bled appear fine....I have absolutely no boosted pedal though......the new booster appears to hold no vacuum ! I have 15" of vac at idle...the dual chamber booster appears to have a massive leak. I can take my mighty vac pump -hook it up to the new booster and pump it all day long and the gauge never moves -nothing happens. I can take the same mighty vac and connect it to my old booster and after around 20 pumps it holds vacuum and hisses when I disocnnect the hose.....whats the minimum vacuum you need to run power brakes ? I have read 12 inches is all you need .....I have 15" ...whats a way to test the vac booster before I remove this p.o.s. and send it back to right stuff detailing ......where should I be grabbing the vac signal from...I am grabbing it from the base of the edelbrock 800 in the back of the carb like their book says .....should I be grabbing it from the front of the carb instead ? P.s. banjo fitting-rubber hose to caliper is still leaking on one side - so I will have to try teflon tape and see if that stops it again as they are really cranked down and still leaking..... H E L P ! J H E L P .......
Hey Fellas I have 65 lark. I just installed an AM&P 455 Mule engine. She runs great but I run 210 degrees on the freeway. I am using a modine 4 core radiator, a flex fan, long water pump( with the large impeller), 67 gs fan shroud. The top rad hose fits perfect but the lower hose is kinked becuse it hits the oil filter. What hose can I use that fits good ? Thank you in advance for your help.
Update 10-11-07 the new booster came today as promised by Right Stuff Detailing...I disassembled everything and put it all back together. The original booster from them WAS BAD and this one works fine I HAVE DISC BRAKES ! It was too late for a cruise around the block but down the street and back they felt ok...I didnt get on it as I was afraid of the brakes not holding possibly.....this thing sure is loud though, the PYPES race pros are a loud muffler. Now I have to fix the tranny leak ,do some tuning, do some rerouting of the wiring harness , move the gauges inside and repaint my suspension that was ruined during this brake fiasco, put the hood back on and start enjoying this thing. J
That sux that you got the 1 in 100 thats bad.:eek2: But at least you worked it out.:TU: Try the silicon fluid. Dot 5. Doesn't damage the paint and restores crap like plastic and faded old cloudy trim. I kid you not bro.:Brow: Stumbled onto the trim part. The plastic comes like new!! I use it on my GN center caps and it's amazing!!uzzled: Yes i'm serious. Get that stuff in your brake system.:3gears: Joe
Thanks for your help Joe.....I wish I would have known about the dot 5 ...when you use it to polish do you let it sit on the part awhile or do you immediately wipe on wipe off....regarding 1 in 100 bad parts I guess I am just lucky ha ha ...J
10-15-07...update I traced down the tranny leak...it was my fault I crossed threaded one of the tranny line fittings....I pulled it off and replaced it with one tranny fitting off my 300 trans.....the immediate drip all but stopped completely ...however I went out there this am before work and there was a huge puddle under the trans ? I am wondering if my vent is clogged ? The car is running hot still .....I went out yesterday and put a 160 hi flow stat in it...its worse now than with no stat. Since it wasnt marked the pellet on the stat is facing inside the intake correct ? The upper radiator hose gets rock hard ? I have an Alumatech radiator,Spal single puller AND 15" flex fan but at idle it still runs hot ? Any advice ?
Pellet? I dont know what that is but if its the copper round sensor it should be in the intake. Do you have the full brass/one or the one that looks like hat with a thin mounting surface with the spring on the bottom?
Full brass.....copper is inside of intake.....its installed like this point is facing front of car copper sensor towards manifold. J
UPDATE 10-17-07 Well I pulled the 160 hi flow thermostat out that I thought was defective as my top radiator hose was rock hard and the car was on its way to 220 and creeping before I shut it off.... So I bought a regular style 160 and modified it by drilling qty 4- 1/8 " holes in the perimeter of it. Result- it ran 5 degrees cooler at 210 at idle after about 20 minutes but I think it would have crept up in temp. too if I wouldnt have shut it off.......its still running hotter than no thermostat at all at idle...so thinking inadequate pump flow- I started looking at my pulleys I bought here and there off ebay etc......measured -compared them to stock and I believe my problem partially might be that my water pump pulley is a march underdrive pulley. TA is now selling "overdrive" water pump pulleys and as I have a 2:56 rear gear and I am .030 overbored I went ahead and ordered one. It should be here Friday so I will install it and let everyone know whats the result is at idle. Im going to leave the 160 stat in for now, I had another inch on either side of the existing flex fan blades - so I will also swap in a 17" derail flex fan I have which will only leave 1/4" on either side between shroud and blades. This will be running in conjunction with the single SPAL mounted fan which is in front of my aluminum radiator. J.
Flex Fan? Why not a big old 18 inch 7 blade stocker? With a clutch? No flex fan noise. Ahhh. I had mine out last friday night to go to RaceWay Park anf it ran 185-195 all night. No passes yet though. Going to try to make a few runs before the track closes.
