Update...I moved the fan thermal switch to the front intake bung .... naturally the fan comes on alot earlier now....I also decided to run the vacuum advance to full manifold vac for the first time and it advanced alot so I had to cut the idle back. It had like 28 degrees advance at idle with it connected ...15 initial + 13 vac advance BUT it ran cooler as a result and the idle really smoothed out. BUT after reading Larry the wizards timing article I removed the vac advance unit and did the mod to limit it to +8 degrees max vac advance from the vac can. It was too dark to try it again . So tomorrow I will hit it again with the limit in there and see if she still runs cooler ...I also bled the brakes with the one man bleeder valves available at auto zone "HELP -P/N 12704" speed bleeder" $9.99 for 2 OUCH ! They worked good though as I have no one to help me on my 65 Skylark. Hopefully I can take it around the block tomorrow for the first time. I also still need to reconnect my vacuum assist to the back of the carb tomorrow...so the carbs got to come off again to reconnect the vacuum splitter block. Hopefully the oil pump gaskets still hold and that persistant pump leak doesnt come back. J.
I decided to put the exhaust system the rest of the way on to be a good neighbor. I bought the pypes 2.5 " X pipe system. I had to make 4 length cuts to the pipes but other than that she bolted right in. Its a sturdy system. The 2.5" Pypes Race Pro mufflers and stock manifolds are a little too loud for my taste at idle and I will probably change them out down the road but certainly not right now. I should have gone with the quieter Pypes Street Pro mufflers I think they are called. I will not know if anything is hitting the suspension until I get it on the road and bounce it up and down a few times but it appears to be a good system- well made. Brakes,tranny leak and the stupid oil pump leak are still issues that need to be solved. I have ordered a stock oil pump gasket as the "aftermarket-performance " mylar gasket set appears to be where the leak is coming from on the pump...if it costs me a few psi at idle I dont care I cant have it leaking constantly like this and I will use a stock-thickness gasket instead. Did a little carb tuning...I have 15" inches of vacuum at idle with this 288-94h cam. With the vac advance connected to my modified vacuum canister and full manifold vac I have 21 deg advance and it all but smooths out the chop in the idle. You know it isnt stock but it doesnt sound choppy with the vac advance in. Remove the vac advance alltogether and run straight 15 degrees advance and a light chop is present which would be nicer for the cruise through the drive in on a Friday night.
Update...9-18-07 .still havent driven it yet ....brakes are shot as distribution block is stripped at front to rear line connection- leaking so bad - no pedal......Bit the bullet and ordered 2" drop front disc brake conversion kit, brake line kit and dual 9" vac booster from Right Stuff Detailing. Car starts on first or second attempt every time...idles on its own after 20 seconds or so- is steady as a rock in the engine bay :TU: . Have finally received backordered Derale 17'" flex fan to replace 15" unit on there. Will now put it on and try it allthough its running alot cooler since vac advance can was attached to - full manifold vac. Smaller pulley on 1 wire alternator installed - does cause it to charge more so thats fixed. Oil pump leaking again ..stock oil pump gasket has shipped from Napa finally it says...ps will never buy online again from them as they take forever to ship and said items were in stock over 1.5- 2 weeks ago when order placed. Trans pan or lines are still leaking...will chase that down tonight....J.
Thanks for the compliment ...I need to put a few more pics up as its got the radiator , distributor, etc all in there now.
Yeah buddy looks awsome. Just did the same thing myself!! How did you mount a shroud and what one did you use?? Got like 13 hrs trimming and fitting a 67 gs 400 shroud. ( goes in upside dow so it is smooth on top of radiator. Joe
Thanks......67 shroud from Parts America - no cutting- mounted normally ....I used the stock 300 radiator top plate and cut it instead to fit my aftermarket aluminum radiator ...will post some pics later...J
Yea I bought Jegs Aluminum and it's not been an easy install. Like I said probably 13- 14 hrs. I never had a top plate cause this car was a fireball V 6, and it had some cheesy bracket holding the rad in place. Please post some pics so I can check it out. I'll try to do the same. Joe.
UPDATE : 9-22-07 ...Received 2" drop front disc brake conversion kit from Right stuff detailing...decided to dry fit everything before tackling the job Saturday morning.....it turns out they accidently sent me the wrong bearing package for a standard spindle kit rather than the 2" drop kit ...the bearings wont drop in to the hubs, dust covers are the wrong size as well as the bearing seals ...called them late Friday and the proper set is on the way...should have them Tuesday. I went ahead and removed the drivers side drum brake assembly.....We jacked the car up on jack stands letting the front suspension hang, and then put a floor jack under the lower a - arm shock point and jacked it back up a tad . Everything broke apart relatively event free with a few sharp hammer blows. 2 " drop springs were already on the car. After removing the shock I just roped the springs into the frame as a precautionary move to prevent them from jumping out possibly. We had put a floor jack directly under the lower a arm shock mount and ever so slowly dropped it all down a little bit at a time and the fully extended springs came out uneventfull and just lifted out. My uncle a heavy equipment mechanic supervised and said we didnt need spring compressor to do it and he was right in this case. I bought standard replacement 401 springs that unloaded are approximately 1 coil taller than the 2" drop springs that were in previously. I bought them because I need a little more front tire clearance as I was rubbing before and I purchased 2" drop spindles this time vs just having the 2" lowering springs and stock spindles. Heres a pic showing the two springs side by side 401 on right vs 2" drop on left . I am also replacing all dust boots, and sway bar rubber end bushings that are all dry rotted. Ball joints and tie rod ends were replaced by the previous owner and look / feel good. Painting spindles and a arms with KBS Rust Seal while I have it all apart ....the saga continues ou: . J
Here is my 65 skylark radiator setup pics you wanted.....65 skylark, 455, short nose water pump,15 inch flex fan,65 radiator top plate cut. Alumitech radiator. J
Man oh man it looks awfully tight in there!! I will snap some pics a little later and post em. Thanks Joe
my 66 isnt that tight and i am running a 4 core radiator, uncut top plate and a 7 blade clutch fan with 67 GS400 shroud.
UPDATE : 9-27-07 ....awaiting arrival of "correct" rotors from Right Stuff Detailing...they sent me the wrong rotors ....thats why my bearings,seals, caps wouldnt fit ... :blast: :af: ....J
Heres mine bro. I used a 70 steering pump and it was tight to get it off the box. Yes it was sitting right on the power steering box!!!! I worked it out though. I'll get better pics tomorrow.
Update 10-7-2007....I got the correct rotors from the supplier finally....got it all installed the other night....went to connect brake lines today and ran into ANOTHER problem with this Right Stuff Detailing Disc Brake conversion kit...the two piece front to rear line "coupler" is only threaded-machined on one side ! I am going in search of a coupler today . My friend who bought his camaro conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brake Corporation didnt run into any problems at all like this .....the kit has no instructions with it either so I dont know if I am doing anything wrong .........:af: ou: :blast: J
Hmm. I bought that same kit and didn't have that problem. Sorry it's giving you a hard time. Surprised. Joe
Thanks Joe...yes its been frustrating..... does your front to rear brake line thread into the rearward hole on the distribution block ? .....I am wondering if they robbed a reducer fitting off mine to send to someone else ? Got a Pic of yours ? Does yours have a turnable proportioning valve ? Mine does not .....Thanks John
I bought a complete kit from Right stuff detailing and had nothing but problems from the beginning. I finally gave up and made my own front brake lines. i'm no amature when it comes to stuff like this and i was thoroughly pissed by the time i was done with them. from now on i make my own lines and get it right the first time :af:
