Lonnie You will notice that there is only $695 of assembly labor. All the other cost is parts and machine work. Even if you use cheaper pistons and do a standard 462 build you will be hard pressed to do a short block for less than $4K and it will not be able to handle the power levels you want. Don't forget Jim's rotating assembly saves you from having to do a lot of decking to get "0" deck and you won't have to machine the intake manifold to get port alignment. Saves a bunch of machining cost. You can use Jim's shortblock build sheet as a guidline. Just fill in your own prices to figure out what it will cost you to do the job locally. Paul
i am On a phone so reading that invoice is impossible . i guess your right he performs a lot of machining processes that i would skip to save money and roll the dice. But none the less his work would be top notch and would be way more reliable in the long run. and plus i bet the rear main wouldn't leak like mine.
Working for free does pay off. some of you know I've been working on a circle track car for a buddy of mine just for sheer enjoyment like i do many old cars. and today the guy with the circle track car dropped me off a near brand new aluminum radiator 27 by 19 and just as thick as my 4 core out of the centurion and said merry Christmas. glad to know there are still Hella nice people like that around here other than my buick people. just thought i would share
From my own experience , The Holley blue pump is okay when its new, but they wear out and lose volume over a shorter -than- you -would -think amount of time. We found this out with my mild 462, on the dyno it was lean on the top end , and upon inspection the pump was not putting out what it should. Even a new Holley blue pump is not adequate to feed a healthy nitrous big block. I'm running a Holley geroter 250 now . Have fun :beer
What pump would you recommend? I would like the best pump to handle a 200 shot. with about 600 na horse. its a daily driver also
Any of the brand name electric fuel pumps around 250 GPH should work for what you are doing or maybe a Comp 140 or equal for the engine and use the Blue for the nitrous with a low fuel pressure cutoff switch. The thread is confusing me a bit and I may be getting your engines mixed up. A 308S like cam which requires a 4000+ stall converter and your Stage 2 heads would not really be optimised for 5500 rpm shifts. More like 6500 or higher. So, if you are going to shift at 5500 a much smaller cam would be better. Reality check: 600 HP N/A in general is getting pretty close to where a girdle is needed and then adding 200 HP nitrous will push you right into the "main caps are in the oil pan" level(been there done that). Build a medium HP engine keeping the rpm fairly low and add some nitrous, build a high rpm N/A engine, or add a girdle and the nitrous to it. It is very unlikely to come cheap. Consider less gear if you want to keep the rpm down in the traps. That's where you run into trouble with the nitrous because if you are coming through at peak rpm without nitrous it will be much higher with it. You can optimise for with or without but not both. Don't forget about a nice TA SP1 or SPX intake for the plate to go on top of. You will need an excellent ignition for nitrous use to keep it fired. Good idea to run better gas when on the bottle. Wouldn't hurt to pull a few degrees of timing out of it when the nitrous is activated.
The motor i have now is in my signature. rather mild setup that will work well with nitrous. the motor I'm talkin about is one i plan on building and hopefully i can get it done by next august. I will be getting an spx this winter and port my iron heads a bit and put a bigger cam in. that way i don't rush the new build. I'm just trying to get a game plan and i appreciate all you guys knowledge. you guys are so ouch more experienced than me and i trust you guy to lead me in the right direction
i See where i confused you. i want about 450 horse na with 100 shot with new motor. but i want the pump to be able to handle way more.
I like the Holley geroter 250 pump , (they run quieter than vane pumps ) with an Aeromotive return style regulator , and - 8 feed and return lines . Run the proper high flow in line filter at the fuel cell sump before the pump, and do not run flow restricting sharp 90* brass fittings. Use the smooth radius 90* Russell or Aeroquip fittings where needed. Run the return line to the top of the fuel cell and through a bulk head style fitting right to the bottom of the fuel cell , away from the fuel feed port ,so it does not create air bubbles in the fuel (airate) . A return style system keeps a more consistent fuel pressure than dead head style regulators , and allows the fuel pump (s) to run cooler and quieter. I have no experience with nitrous yet , but No Lift's post makes a lot sense by suggesting that you use a low pressure cut off switch to protect your investment, and a dedicated separate pump for the nitrous , especially if you want to build a system that can support your future plans to go big. I have also heard that if your tune is not spot on , and your engine has a tendency to backfire through the carb when it's out of tune, then adding nitrous to the equation will add a much bigger and dangerous problem - aka nitrous backfire.
Lonnie, this is just my opinion, so no offense meant, but Nitrous to me is cheating. I'd rather have an "all motor" Buick. I think Nitrous is for Chevy's, or guys that just want easy speed. If everything isn't just right, Nitrous can do a lot of damage. I'd rather build the motor for the HP I need, and have it there all the time, not just when my bottle is full, and I hit the switch. I can't help finding Mike Garrison's plate amusing:laugh: Sorryp
lol , some guys say ' I don't want to rent my horsepower ' However one feels about nitrous may depend upon the influence of others around your local racetrack. Some groups love it , some groups hate it. The downside for me would be having to fill the bottle , and around my area, it can cost up to $80 for one ten pound refill, so the best deal is to get your own filling station, which will cost you $ too. From what I hear , one bottle will need a refill after about 6- 8 passes on a 200 shot . For me , the upsides would be being able to shut it off for street driving (less chance of losing my license) and being able to run a mild cam and CR for street driving / better gas gas milage . At the end of the day , I think an all throttle classic muscle car that can beat up on a nitrous car is the coolest , but the younger a person is , the less patience they may tend to have , and there is more chance they will want some instant gratification.
my car is my daily driver and i don't make that much money. and i like getting 15 miles per gallon highway and being able to spray it and go fast also. money is the main concern. it cost a lot to build a daily driver with expensive parts big cam and carb and still run on pump gas. and its not that I'm impatient i just compete locally with people that can just go out and blow 10k at any given moment.
You'll never be able to spend as much money as some people. Some people have very deep pockets, and they can spend as much as they like. That will never change. What you are saying is you want quick gratification, and you want it now. When I can't afford something, I dream about it, and save up, until I can afford it. I bought my car in 1999. I spent about 5 years in the 13's. I saved for aluminum heads, and spent another 4 years in the 12's. Saved some more, and recently had JW do the roller motor for me. I should easily be in the 11's next year. I like speed as much as the next guy, but I can wait and save until I can afford what I want. I think a big reason this country is in the mess it is in, is because too many people want everything, and they want it now, even if they can't afford it. Like I said, if you don't have everything right with nitrous, you will ventilate your block, or run over your crank. What good is going fast if you don't have reliability? Besides, if you spray someone, and beat them, they can always say it was because of the juice. I realize it's too late to turn back now. I wish you luck:TU:
N2o to me is have your cake and eat it too deal to me for a street car.You can build a 9-9.5 moderate cam motor to run 89-91 fuel and when the funds are there fill the bottle and have fun fighting for traction.It's all the same at tracks whats cool and whats not.I've been told automatics are for chick's so ill have to build a stick n/a car to be cool .The tune on any motor has to be on or it wont be long for this world if you race it. Jamie
My theory is. if i get good and comfortable with nitrous i won't be afraid to stack a roots blower up top one day. but at the moment i wouldn't dare. and i have to learn the ins and outs of nitrous because I'm building a Vega for a buddy and he wants to pump tons of nitrous to it.
We ran the aeromotive a2000 pump, but it failed on the red car driven daily. It provided plenty of fuel for the engine and nitrous. Did you see the nitrous express tank with pump Tyler uses on the red car now? That is a nice set up. Runs a holley blue for engine. That tank and pump are less expensive than the aeromotive.
ya That tank looked like a pretty nice set up. that might be what i go to. got a new holly blue under warranty. top end is back. how's to convertible coming along? were having some crazy weather heard its snowing some places
video! love watching first Fire ups especially if they involve flame throwing! did you get your carpet and seats in?
carpet and rear seat in. I pulled the dash and put a tach in the gauge cluster. Need to put the dash back in, then put in the front seat.
