Rule of thumb..... Just remember with building a Boosted setup that power made off boost is based of what the motor makes N/A. In other words, if you make 400HP N/A and add 7 lbs of boost it should make close to 600HP all things being equal. But if you have 300HP N/A and add 7lbs of boost you will only get 450 and it will take 14lbs of boost to make 600 HP. So be careful how much power you kill to make the motor work for boost. You will find yourself adding twice the boost to make up for the power you lost.
need to get material for valley cover and add the water ports. everything else that needs to be cut is done. now its just the finish fitting and assembling it. it sure is light. still would like better pics of robs intake
go fast 350 Gentlmen thank you for the replies. My car a 64 special ( drag only ) weighs just under 3100# with me in it. with fiberglass and lexon and a blow through centrifigal 350 it should stay under 3000# so about 800 boosted HP ? I'm hopin g to be able to use the 650 holley hp series carb i have or atleast most of it. i can get my hands on a t/a intake and a set of hooker headers. will a stock crank take 800 hp . i'm sure good rods and pistons are in order. who is recommended to port my heads and intake?? i know i will need a seriously upgraded fuel system a set of axles , disc's on the front a parachute mount and a window net and trans blanket for the car. jost a few little things LOL now is the time to get the ball rolling so to speak. pull the engine i have down and get the heads to a porter and start looking at a source for rods and pistons/ crank? :eek2: i don't usually type this much
Internally balanced, aluminum rods, and good but lite pistons should help it take some good abuse. Stock cranks are not forgiving on tuneup errors so make sure its right if your going for that much power. Spark knock it with too much timing or not enough fuel and it will probably end up in the pan. If you can get 400 on motor, 800 HP should be easy. 600 is a little small but you could look into upgading to a Proform 750cfm body that would be a little better. I would be afraid to try the 600 if it has the removable airbleeds.
Get in touch with Bobb Makely since he is running a blow-thru setup on his 455. He could be of some good help and possible brackets to get it all bolted up.
Sean, Rick is right on the money except for the aluminum rods. For some reason they cannot produce a rod with the big end small enough not to interfere with the cam. Lightweight billet steel will suit you better but be prepared to spend some hefty $$$$.
no machine work tonite. went to antique auction and spent my carb money on a edward curtis print. if your curious about curtis, type it in goggle and read up on the prices. yikes. "honey, i need some money".......yeah, that will work..lol
A1: Jim B. and Greg Gessler are the most experienced with these heads from what I've heard. I've talked to both and there is only one other guy I'd trust to port 350 heads and thats Bill M. for obvious reasons. A2: I'd copy Bill's recipe if you want to make BIG power. Off the top of my head I think he used a eagle crank but I can't remember the rods. You've read his 30 page thread right? I've plucked out all the usefull info into a word doc. I'll post it when I get out of camp and get back to my own computer.
I didn't realize the cam was that close. :eek2: I guess I should have know with it's super stroke it runs. I like aluminum because it absorbs harmful harmonics and shock. They are no cure for anything but the help when dealing with stock parts. If I had to dump the change for high dollar rods then a crank would have to follow suit to protect the investment of the rods. It's a expensive jump once you make the commitment to make some serious power. I should be in the power game sometime in the near future... I still can't believe there isn't a cheep substitute for a good rod that can be machine to drop in a 350. It can't take much to be better than stock.
these rods, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lent...1QQcmdZViewItem this is what Bill M. wrote to me about them in a PM: Wes, OK, here's the scoop on those rods. All that would be needed would be the pin end bore. Used with a true flat head piston and go get 'em. You cannot stroke a buick 350. Offset grind on the crank and you'll be smackin' the cam. Next time you look at a shortblock on the stand notice how very close the rods swing near the cam. One of the reasons these engine grenade into pieces. When even a bearing goes the rod contacts the cam and all hell breaks loose. One thing you can do also is to have the piston pin offset the .080 if you have a set custom made. Yes, the $3800 was for rods and crank. And that was a BIG favor to my builder. I'm still working on getting us some parts but smacking myself in the side of my head is starting to get tireing not to mention expensive. But I'm a stubborn old gearhead and do not give up easily.
damn, the page isn't working... these were Lent rods i believe for a SBC.. w/ longer length than our stock rods and a smaller pin bore dia....
did some cleaning up on the adapter plates(their done) and the intake halves(that sounds funny) and preassembled it. tell ya, the sbm and sbb ports line up real well. got ot get my valley plate and do the water ports and t/stat housing. then put it all together and massage the carb top for what carb iwant to put on it. then on to the race car. :grin: i measured the stock intake from valley rail. its only 3". didnt measure the t/a on the car. but we run (2) 3/4" plates under the carb. this manifold setup starts at 6". :TU: we WILL be ready for cecil(unless some stupid little gremlin bites me in the ass). if you want to go fast, go to cecil in october. next up, lets see, a dual quad tunnel ram ? or the w7 intake which is another 2.5" taller ? or the paxton charger. decisions, decisions...........
Bill, if it was EAGLE that made your crank and rods , they have the demensions on file? I have a buddy ( chevy/mopar ) guy. we won't hold that against him thats is an eagle dealer. i will have him check with them about a crank and rods. I am going to do this right and not rush anything. i spent 2 years developing my 300. and in passing thought about force inducing it. but dollar for dollar i decided on more cubes. i would have to spend the same money so the choice was obvious. My 300 has a stock crank and stock rods w/arp boltsand see's 6000rpm every shift for 6 years with out a hitch. One freshen up two years ago. this last winter i left some water in it and the block has a crack in it that seaps water ou: a little epoxy and barsleak shored it up for norwalk this year Now is time for change. THANKS for the current and future advise LETS GET SOME RESPECT FOR THE 350 PEACE
I finaly got back and settled in from indy. GSJohny you hav really done a lot. Are you takeing pictures and measuring every thing before the assymbly. It would be neet to have pictures of all the parts before you weld it all up. DAn
pictures, are you kidding, i am lucky to get this far on the computer. :laugh: measurements....good ole kentucky windage. :laugh: my son and were talking about the intake and needed hose fittings and water outlet. i figured i would have to make a new stat housing. i grabbed the water outlet i cut off the sbm and by god i think i can make that work too. we will see tonite. john is picking up the material for the valley and carb area. if all goes well tonite, all that is left is glue it together and test it on the car. oh, forgot, still need a carb to fit. q/jet is no usable.
You can use a disposable camera and get the photos developed at Walmart where they can burn you a CD ($2) with the pics on it in digital then you could e-mail them to me to be re-sized then posted on here. seanbuick76@hotmail.com Glad to hear your coming close!!!
If you give me a call I can talk you through it. 780-725-1346 Do you have any kind of photo program? The pics may be to big to e-mail If not this one is easy to use and has a free trial download: http://www.arcsoft.com/support/downloads/downloadview.asp?downloadid=189 If you have an e-mail adress of any kind you can attach the photos easily.
sean, your still a funny guy. lol. i use this gonkultor just for this stuff. i dont go where kirk and spock go. :laugh: anyways, glad i save the water outlet from the sbm. a little massaging on the intake runners and water runners and it fits. just have to drill the water holes. my dilemma for tonite was/is the valley plate. i could take out the 2 dowel pins and with the sides angle cut, i could just slide it in between the block and heads....or turn it upside down with angles the down and put a groove down the edge so the adapter plates set in. for me it really doesnt matter on our motor. we do not do change very often and if something breaks, we dont fix it. it goes right on the trailer. if somebody was to use the same setup, you would have to make a decision before hand. so.....any comments on this problem. i have about 3 hrs left of work to do. then i can do final assembly. do i glue, alumina-weld or tig weld it??? and i have to find a square bore carb. cant use a q/jet anymore.
oh, i forgot to ask. again, where is that single plane now and can i get more detailed pics of it??????????????????????????? :blast:
