Car is stuck on the street again :-( need some engine mechanics figured out..

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by EEE, May 21, 2006.

  1. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Engine

    Does it have spark?????? Is it wired in the correct rotation???? fuel+compression+spark = running.
     
  2. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    It's been a long evening out there and it's midnight and we're back inside, no dinner yet and gf is getting a bit loopy as she calls it.. We put everything back together as it should be, including packing the pump gears with petroleum jelly this time.

    Rocker arms look fine, the bob up and down evenly, no probs.

    So...


    We have everything set up and gf turns the key and the car starts right up, no gas needed. It sits there and idles... Sounds just a little off, like a faint rattle or similar... I tell her to tap the gas and the car dies.

    She turns the key again and it starts, and I check the timing, it's at 4 degrees on the scale, there's plenty of vacuum down the carb, and it's sounds ok. Then we hit the gas again and it dies.

    Next time we set the timing with the advance plugged and it's still at four degrees, it makes no difference if the advance is connected or not. Normally it should run crappy with the advance plugged and freshen up when you connect it right, but it stays in the same place the whole time. ???

    We also notice how there's no oil pressure..

    Next time we try to start it, it won't start.. it just turns and turns until we hit it with some gas through the carb and pull the throttle way in, then it comes and barely stays alive and then dies..

    Now it seems to be back to its normal crappy mode.. of not running again :(

    SO CLOSE BUT SO FAR AWAY.. 36 hours to tow..
     
  3. Mister T

    Mister T Just truckin' around

    Reid's post got me thinking. Remove the carb, and check the gasket, I'll bet tomorrows dinner tab that all those backfires have blown a rather nice sized hole in it.

    If you don't have a new gasket, go fetch your closest box of Wheaties, Corn Flakes, or Cap'n Crunch. Then cut one entire side of the box out, and using the old gasket, or spacer, trace out a new gasket, then carefully cut it out.

    Cut out the uneeded inside sections, test for fit, and while you're at it, check the 4 carb mount ears closely for cracks or damage. Once your new home made gasket is ready to install, BTW, it won't matter if the rooster faces up or down, carefully re-install the carb, torque properly, someone must have the specs as I don't, connect the linkage, and fire it up.

    If you must know, been there, done that many years ago, wish I'd remembered it earlier.

    Now' I'm going to try to get some sleep. Don't know when I'll be able to check back on your progress.
     
  4. 1973GS464

    1973GS464 Well-Known Member

    Checking out your thread and worried about your not having oil pressure. If your using the factory gauge it could just be a bad connection on the sending unit since it was just disconnected. I keep thinking that the carb is your problem. I would try putting another carb on the motor to see if there is any improvement. You've been through a lot but your almost there. :TU:
    -STEVE
     
  5. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    This has to stop at some point.. It's been like a month of wrenching out there and I know we're real close but we're also far away.. I've put the car on craigslist to see if there's any interest in it, and I will see how much I can do to it today.

    I can't get to the exhaust to take the pipes off..

    We've tried two different carbs, both with their own gaskets, same result.

    I will call and see if pick-a-part can come and get it tomorrow, if no one wants it for some kind of $.

    I will start to take the decent parts that could be useful at some point tonight if things don't work out..

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/170334430.html


    - - - - - -

    I bet I can start the car right now when it's been sitting over night, but then the same thing will happen on the second try..

    *** Last call ***
     
  6. unclelar

    unclelar Well-Known Member

    when you start it the first time, turn the dist. counter clockwise and see what happens
    give it 15-18* of initial advance and see if it will run. thats with the vac advance unplugged.those big rivs like about 12* initial minimum anyway that 4* that the sticker says isnt enough. especially with a worn valvetrain.
    good luck
    keep us posted
    Larry
     
  7. 1979SHX

    1979SHX derevaun seraun

    I agree. I still think it's a timing adjustment issue.

    Don't sell out yet! You may come to regret it. You'll get it fixed, and you're learning things in the process.
     
  8. Brian B

    Brian B Well-Known Member

    You mentioned no oil pressure,i had a '79 Skyhawk,brand new.Two weeks later it wouldn't start,had the mechanic i worked with to look at,he put starter fliud in the carb,would start then die. Had the car towed to the dealer under warrantie,turned out the oil pump was faulty and the car wouldn't run with no oil pressure.....a saftey thing so you don't blow up the engine. Just another thing to check.Good luck!!!!
     
  9. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Set the timing to around 14 degrees, still the same result.. I had it running for about half a minute and there was a big wet spot behind the driver's side tailpipe. I've now changed back to the original rims and tires..
     
  10. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    The car is gone....

    Sold it to a German auto mechanic who restores old police cars, I think it went to a good home.

    Thanks alot for the help guys, at some point you just have to save your sanity; but it hurts to let it go.

    I'll be back!
     
  11. BTail

    BTail Well-Known Member

    Blast!!!! I lost track of this thread for a while, and hate to see it end that way. But now you can concentrate on the Centurian, right? That, and take the GF out to a fine dinner. She deserves it.

    Hopefully, the German mechanic didn't spend 30 seconds under the hood, start it up, and drive it home. That'd be a real kick in the shorts.

    If nothing else, you initiated a great thread with tons of great info. This stuff is why I quit subscribing to Car Craft and Hot Rod.

    Now, just get that Centaurian into the mid 16s, have a beer, and laugh fondly at the memories of your Riv.

    Nick

    (p.s. my Riv is currently out of action, as well. Fortunately, it's in my garage. Just gotta find the time to track down an electrical gremlin)
     
  12. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    No chance, that car wasn't going anywhere... and I won't call to confirm that just to make sure I am right.

    He had some tow truck come and put it on the bed, never even looked at it except saying it looked solid by just having his eyes in the direction of the car. Didn't look under the hood, check anything.. nothing.. just the way I like it.

    Now I can concentrate on the Centurion and my plans would be to get the body work and paint finished by next spring.
     
  13. regal_84

    regal_84 Dan

    I know this is an ancient thread and I'm a day late and a dollar short but you wired your distributor wrong. Buicks rotate clockwise and #1 is the other side of the coil connections...

    Dan
     
  14. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It shouldn't matter where the #1 wire is, if the engine is at TDC, and the rotor and #1 wire are in the same spot.

    I guess I'm not seeing what is wrong:puzzled: :Do No:
     
  15. regal_84

    regal_84 Dan

    My bad, I quickly looked at the picture and saw 2 and 8 on the wrong side of 1 and assumed he was showing rotation instead of cylinder...

    Oops
    (btw, this is Sean, Dans dad, I don't want him taking the rap for my stupid observation)
     

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