thanks. i got to get some pictures of the honing, and head cleaning that we did. it looks really nice. a clean motor is a good running motor.
hmm looking great giant... Anyhow you have done great work. I wanna see this giant in action. please post the video or photo after installation it. Anyhow thanks for sharing your work I really appreciate it looks your a pretty expert in this stuff.
Thank you alot for your comments. Me and my dad are doing this, my dad had a 69 mustang and he did dirt track racing he did alot of work to both of these cars. I will post a video for sure :3gears: ---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ---------- So we hit an unexpected expense. We were told that you have to torque the rod bolts to 45 and 1 broke and a few stretched so im going to have to get arp bolts have my rods reconditioned. Atleast i wont be scared to rev it to 6grand:Brow:
I forget what year your engine is but the early 350s, ('72 and older I think) had weak rod bolts anyway. So an upgrade is in no way wasted money, even if it was unintended. Looking good so far BTW
Sorry for the slow response but I do have a few decent timing covers and I was correct that they will need a few heli coils...Not sure on what they go for but would let go for 25 plus shipping if that is fair.
Its alright. The timing cover is very importent. No need to skip this step. Thanks anyways. ---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ---------- I dropped the rods off at scottys racing engines to get arp bolts and reconditioning. While I was thier they were working on a 757ci engine :eek2:
Okay so I had 4 craked rods. So I bought 8 used rods with bolts for 60 bucks off of ebay. I got them in today, they look really nice. I took them down to scotty to get some machining done. Hopefully I can return the ARP bolts and save a few bucks. I cant wait, its so close. I have all the money I need to finish ordering all the parts, if I can return those bolts.
What math can you explain? Yes the heads ar completly stock. I did clean everything really nice as you can see in my photos. I would like to do head work on it later on in life when it becomes my drag car due to rust.
9.2 static compression. I guess you didn't read the article, so I'll give you a synopsis. Static compression is what most guys focus on, but it is the dynamic compression that is more important, Why? Because an engine doesn't run at the static compression. When the piston is moving up the cylinder on the compression stroke, the intake valve is still open. No compression can build until the intake valve closes. How early or late the intake valve closes influences how much actual compression is built. For an engine to run at the static compression, the intake valve would have to close at the very bottom of the stroke before the piston rises from BDC. This is never the case. The article I linked explains this, and there is a calculator you can download at the bottom of the page. If you want to run pump gas, and you want the most HP and TQ, the DCR must be in the 7.5-8.4 range, really 7.5-8.0 is better. When you see in a cam description, "needs --- compression", that is there to get the DCR in the desirable range. The smaller the cam, the less static compression you need to get the DCR on target. In this case, 9.2 static gets the DCR close to 8.0.
Lol I read the article it was a little confusing. Thank you for clearing it up for me. Excuse my ignorance but how do I find intake close abdc in degrees. My cam card has a thing it looks like a circle and says in.close 31.5 ABDC. Is this the number in degrees.o No:
