-350 4bbl intake......$50 -Voodoo 67000 cam kit...$240 -Machine work..........$130 -Rering kit..........$170 -Timing cover....$100 -New rods.........$60 -Rocker arms and retainers......$60 -Timing chain....$30 -Oil pump rebuild kit.....$30 I am ging to hold off on the head porting till I have a better job. me and my dad are going to assemble the whole motor so no labor costs. This is what I have bought so far.
I would look into a good re-ring kit. You can find them on Ebay for around $150-$250 with rods, mains, rings, and gaskets. And remember to figure in the price of lifters, I dont think $185 is for cam and lifters.
For one, skip the $450 oil pump kit from TA, your stock front cover and oil pump shoulkd be fine witha $20 melling poil pump rebuild kit. Your first step is to have a machine shop measure the crank and block before you order anything. Once you know what machine work is needed you can then order the right parts. If you buy a master rebuild kit from Northern autoparts it will save you hundreds of dollars.
the TA oil pump kit is because the back of my water pump housing was destroyed from a bad water pump and my oil pump is decent. i guess i could just spend $189 on the timing cover and keep my new water pump and old oil pump then add the melling rebuild kit. i agree on having the crank and block checked before ordering anything. i dont know how much that would cost. the master rebuild kit is all stock parts. i was looking for 350hp 400ft.
I agree with Sean on the $450 front cover, a good stock cover with a rebuilt oil pump is the better bang for your limited buck. But i still say go with a re-ring kit instead of a master. All you get in a re-ring kit is rings/bearings/gaskets in one package. Be sure the kit has mains because some dont, and you will need to buy cam bearings and freeze plugs. Talk to your machinist and have him install them as a part of the machine work. A master kit will have generic pistons and cam, and thats wasted money if you want to pick youre own pistons and cam. I dont know how your machine shop dos it, but mine can order parts wholesale and save me pretty good $, so ask. One more thing, my machinist likes to measure for what I need, then I order the parts, then he machines the engine to fit the parts.:Smarty: If I bring in an engine that needs bored .40 and the crank turned .10, he will wait for the pistons and bearings before cutting to make sure all the tolerances are right, then I bring it home and assemble. Your machine shop might want to do the same, so ask first. And get to know your machinist, being on friendly terms will make things go smoother:TU:
yeah i just updated my budjet and i found a engine kit on ebay that seams really nice it comes with 10:1 pistons and everything except cam, lifters, rockers, and valves. thank you for the machine shop pointers.
Here is some info: http://www.buickperformancegroup.com/forums/showthread.php?9541-dyno-number-on-our-350-stroker 1http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zktYYQhCtqU
okay we took the block and its peices to the machine shop today. the guy says all looks good, he told us to go ahead and take it home and hone the block (we got the stuff for that) when we are done he will put new cam bearings in and polish the crank. no need for boring. we got the block and heads all clean and ready for honing.
Good stuff! It is a good idea to use the TA grooved cam bearings and an adjustable oil pressure regulator as well... :TU:
I have found several timing covers so let me know inspect them to make sure they are ok. If one is decent you can have it for 25.00 plus shipping.
okay thank you. pm with pics if you find a decent one. ---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ---------- just got the block back from the machine shop.got new cam bearings and freaze flugs pressed in, and i got the crank polished. just ordered a rering kit (Rod Bearings, Main Bearings, Thrust Washers, Rings, Gaskets, Valley Pan) and the the ta 284 cam. total is about $500 AND IM OUT OF MONEY.
