Re: What cam to use in my rebuilding Yup, what he ^ said. The cast pistons may not be able to go to 6 grand but just like any other motor keep it out of detonation and the motor will be fine, Read the plugs! It will sure breath its butt off alll the way to 5500 and shift there if you want to be safe with your cast pistons. I bet you would be good to 6 grand once in a while. Set your rev limiter at 5900, 5800. The Aluminum heads are going to Rock the 350 Buick then add the single plane.......:moonu::3gears: BYE
Re: What cam to use in my rebuilding Yep yep. I said this earlier in the aluminum head/intake section. Bump the lift with a roller cam and keep duration low and those aluminum heads will hammer out some stupid torque. Gary
My thoughts were to rebuild my original 4-barrel Rochester carburetor. Now I see that it also sits 10:1 pistons in the engine from 1971 with 2-barrel carburetor, 230 hp (code TO). I can take apart the 1971 and 1969 engine and measure tollerances on the pistons, but there will be a lot of engine parts in my small garage.
Just try the 69 engine to see if the pistons are good in that one... The 71 will have low comp pistons... A small garage is not a reason to limit the number of engines in there... Heck I just have a little 25X26 and my wife parks in half of it... Until I build a shop I am making do with what I have... I currently have 4 Buick 350s in the garage and 2 5.3 litre LS engines for my truck...
I replaced my wife against a Oldsmobil, now I have three cars, one of which frameoff Buick takes two parking spaces. Watch this page Sean, and tell me what it is that I always watch, I think all of it about 1969 Buick engines seems right, is it not original numbers on all engines ?. (looks like 10.50 comp in all 1971 engines)
Open up both engines and take a picture of the pistons and we can tell you what compression the pistons are. I just opened at 69 engine that had the 10:1 pistons but there are also 9:1 versions in 69. The 71-80 engines are all 8.5:1 or lower.
Most 71 engines are 8.5. Where is this info from as it is more than likely way wrong. Pull a head of the 71 engineand the 69 and post a pic of pistons from them.try to get one at top of cylinder. I believe you could still order hi compression engine in 71 but don't think you will see it.
http://www.nhra.net/tech_specs/engine/ the page address i mean you should look in, it disappeared before
Hi Alec, dont know what i have been looking at, you tell me ?. http://www.nhra.net/tech_specs/engine/
71 engines start with 8.5 comp, maybe. the older motors were 10 or 9 comp. or 10.25 for the 315 hp GS
Okay, all numbers were matching my 1970 engine, specs, carburetor and cast numbers, that's why I thought everything was factory nr.
I was home for 5 days and took down the engine from 69, found that the pistons were stuck, managed to get 7, in the last cylinder, it has seeped in water, completely impossible to get out, had to scrap the piston, in my attempt I made a mark in the cylinder wall with a drill. The idea was to take the pistons to 70 engine, I guess I have to buy new. But would i bore or only hone, the most worn cylinder was 3.801968503937 when i convert mm to decimaltum, could i round this to 3.8020?. And the ovality in the worst was 0,0019685039370079, and i think this would be 0,0020. Bore or hone ?
Advantages of Aluminum Heads: * Steel seats provided... no lead additives needed and no valve recession. * Valve job...will not be necessary. Many valve jobs and big valve conversions have resulted in improper valve stem heights and a rocker arm geometry mess. Also cuts away at the hardened factory valve seats and results in a need for steel insert seats. * Porting...should not really be needed as the flow will probably be ample in the new heads. * Weight...Aluminum heads should be half the weight of iron. * Detonation...Aluminum heads are more detonation resistant to low octane fuel choices.
Hello Alec, the most worn cylinder was 3.8020". And the ovality in the worst was 0,0020", would i bore or hone, what sice on cast pistons 10:1 CR (TA_1602). (TA_1635) chrome moly rings to the pistons. Got the TA_212 cam in my list, dont know what springs to use ?. Doing a home Port and polish work and stock valves, dont know if i can use the old ones ?. TH 350 automatic, dont know the gears, 69 skylark Standard rear. Dont need oil pump Assembly, get the oil pump stock repl kit. (TA_1507)oil pump booster plate and shim gasket set, TA adjustable pressure kit. 5/8 oil pickup tube from ta. All oil passage is drilled. (TA_1235) stage 1 intake manifold in the list. (TA_1521B) double roller timing set in the list. No order for stall converter yet. Also in list, cam rod main bearings, frezze plugg kit, neoprene seals, rear main and cover. I cant buy every thing at one time, but i need some help to start assembly, Is ther any gasket kit for over all ?. What is missing for start assembly ?. very grateful for the help.
Save yourself a ton of money and order a master rebuild kit from Northern. Ask them to delete the cam and lifters from the kit and they will discount the price as they have done for me. Otherwise get the whole kit. I advise boring the engine 30 over and doing the rods and mains 10 under each. All new surfaces for the rebuild and it is all done right the first time. Have a machine shop measure the engine before you order the rebuild kit as you may need to go with a larger overbore or oversized bearing.... http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1064 Use a stock 4 barrel intake if you can find one, as the TA intake is of little gain over the stocker.... Be sure to order TA grooved cam bearings, adjustable oil pressure regulator, camshaft, lifters, neoprene front and rear seals all from TA.
Do you have an auto parts store near you that deals with Felpro? If so order the gasket set locally along with oil pick up tube( I just got one myself from auto zone)you can use your valve but would gain more performance with bigger ones since you will need a proper valve job after you port. Porting will take a lot of time and is messy. So start with hone cylinders and cam bearings then crank seal and crank bearings.
