I need some help whith rebuilding my 1970 350, 285 hp (SB code), my shoping cart at TA performance so far looks like this, 10:1 pistons, ta perf intake, hi perf oil pump assem, steel rocker arm kit, rebuilt 750 Q-jet, dougs headers, increased oilflow, port and polish my stock heads, there is more in the cart, but hope this is enough. The questien ?, is it possible to base my camshaft on this information ?, and what valve springs I should use. Do I have something that is overkill in my cart. I am looking for a reliable every day use with a little extra power while its being renovated anyway. first time I write here, a little indulgence with my poor spelling, Google Translate, (coming from Sweden).
Hello.welcome to v8buick I would measure cylinder bore before buying pistons.might need to bore out cylinder due to wear then hone. Ta212 is a good all purpose camor go slightly larger with ta 284-88. What do you have for transmission and rear end gears.you will need to shave top deck of block about. 035 to actually get 10 to 1 with those pistons .I suggest ta big valves and valve springs(ta1436). You might not need the oil pump Assembly if you have OK oil pressure now,get the oil pump booster plate and shim gasket set.change the pressure relief spring to 60 or get ta adjustable pressure kit.get the 5/8 oil pickup tube from ta and drill out passage in block from sump to pump to around 1/2 inch .I suggest porting ta intake also.get a double roller timing chain set.if auto trans get a 2000- 2200 stall convertor.
Didn't a '70 350 come with 10:1 pistons? Than could save you a few bucks by sticking with the ones you have. That is unless you plan on boring it out. If you pull the heads you wont find a wear ring on top of the cylinders like you do with a chebby engine. I had 75,??? mi on my '72/350 and just put standard size 10:1 pistons in it after a quick hone job. Give it a look, you'll be surprised. Same thing with my '74/455. No wear ring on top. Denny Manner was there when I pulled those heads . I said wow, no wear ring. "You wont find One Either". So give it a look. You should be able to use the ones you have. PONCH
Hi Nilsson! Welcome to V8Buick. If you still have your original Rochester carburator you can send it to Carbguy in Stockholm for rebuild. I think it will be more value for the money. I have a rebuilt one from them on my GS and I am very happy with it. http://www.carbguy.com/index.php
Back in the day this is what I ran in my 350. Car ran 13.50s 10.1 compression Non ported heads TA intake TA 118 cam stock rockers. 750 holley dp Mallory ignition unilite .box . And coil. TA headers. 2.5" exhaust 3000 converter th-400 4.10 gears hope this helps.
I can tell you a bit about the car, but I'm offshore and working , so I do not have any numbers for the cylinders here now. The car is a 1969 skylark cab, TH 350 transmission, do not know what was standard rear end gears on them. When I measured the cylinders and looked at 1969 350 engine tolerances it was okay to hone, I hope it's the same tolerances in the 1970 engine , it was the ovality in a cylinder that was the worst, but managed the tolerance. My timing cover did not look good , 3 bolts for the water pump broke , and the round surface where the water pump sits was eaten up, but it 's very expensive for High Performance Oil Pump Assembly , (450 dollars). When I bought the Buick it was a 350 engine from 1971 (code TO) but it had a 4-Barrel carburetor. On a car scrapyard I found a Buick engine from 1969, with a 2-barrel carburetor, when I looked at the engine code , it was a RP code engine, i think the RP engine belong to GS cars whith 4-barrel carburetor, these two engines I have left . Is it the same oil pump assembly ?. Main bearing oil holes and main oil feed passage is drilled out , the 5/8 oil pickup is in the order list . If I use the original valves, becomes the other things affected then?, And what springs should be used then?.
Hello, they had three different small block 350 in 1970, mine is 285 hp , and 9:00 c.r whith SB code, I think it's like this. 260 350 9.00 1-2 Roch 2GV-7040143/SM 7040142/AUTO. engine code SO 285 350 9.00 1-4 Roch 4MV-7040245/SM 7040244/AUTO. engine code SB 315 350 10.25 1-4 Roch 4MV-7040245/SM 7040244/AUTO. engine code SP
Hall Christian, i think I have been in contact with him a few years ago, this is probably a job for him. Tack Christian.
9 to 1 motors have steel shim head gaskets not hi compression piston.silvolite pistons from summitracing for 350 Buick hi comp are shallow dish and are .030 taller comp height then 8.5-9 to 1 pistons.Deck block .030 with a felpro .043 gasket and you are about 10 to 1.use the 1436 springs. Porting with stock valve won't net the same results as the big valve but you can stay with them.all 350 timing covers will fit.Buick v6 timing covers will work off a rear wheel drive engine with 14 bolt oil pan, just use your oil filter housing.
I was about to buy cast piston from TA. Is it better with silv-o-Lite Hypereutectic Pistons 1749H-std from Summit ?, Or even a must?
I would use the stock pistons if you do not need to bore the block. The 69 engine has the 10:1 pistons so use those if your 70 engine e has the low comp versions. I would use a 284 cam. I would skip ordering the carb from TA and use a carb from everyday performance here in the vendor section... I would put a deposit on alum. Heads from TA that will be a Huge upgrade over the stock heads. Then you can still order everything g else to get your engine together and when the heads are ready. They are making the heads but the people who leave deposits will get the first heads that are done.
silvolite/ sealed power cast pistons #w340p from summit racing are .030 taller compression height with about 10 cc dish ( 3.050 diameter x .085 deep) . No need for hyperutectic unless you want them. So measure depth of dish in piston. .085 is hi compression. .215 depth is low compression.I have the hi comp in my 70 SP engine. With .030 shaved from heads I have about 9.98 to 1 from summitracings calculator using felpro .043 head gasket. I have the TA310 cam.I would get break in oil additive with zddp.I got comp cams additive.
If your choice is not to spend the money on aluminum heads then think about ta 1.92 intake valves and port/blend your iron heads. From what you have now it doesn't see like you will need alum heads .To take full advantage of those heads I would suggest a bigger cam like the 310 which would need a 3200 convertor and 373 gears with a single plane intake(sp1x from ta) which is the same setup as my car now minus alum heads and single plane only because they are not yet available. Just my opinion about buying alum heads. Since you don't seem to have plans for big rear gears and hi stall convertor.
Him considering cast pistons,the TA aluminum heads would be way over the top for this kind of build. IMO Derek
Re: What cam to use in my rebuilding The alum heads are going to be a game changer.... People could spend 1500 on headporting, oversized valves etc or bolt on ready to run alum heads and still with a mild street cam make more power than 95 percent of other iron head 350s with massive cams.
Re: What cam to use in my rebuilding Well yeah,of coarse it will,but if someone uses cast pistons with high compression with the new heads with a hot cam and goes lean or detonates 1 time,the engine would be toast. Plus usually cast pistons can't handle the RPM as good that the new heads would be able to offer? Derek
Re: What cam to use in my rebuilding I don't think that the alum. heads will require a higher power band (RPM), I think they will work fine for any combo from mild to wild... The 455 section is full of examples of mild cams, low rpm setups with TA heads that make great street power. If the stock cast pistons can handle a few years of nitrous abuse in the 12 second range then I am sure they are up to handling a street engine with nice flowing heads... The only way I would say to keep the iron heads is if a person is good at porting and can do it themselves for free.. Otherwise once you start paying to have the heads ported it is going to get pretty close to the cost of the alum. heads... Sure you could have a really low grade porting job and then use stock valves and get them rebuilt with a good valve job done but even just that costs a pretty good amount and the benefit is really small over stock heads. No matter which way you go either iron heads or alum heads keep in mind that this is the most important aspect to making a Buick 350 perform well. You could have EVERY single high performance part available for the 350 and still have crappy power if the head porting is not done well. Heck Mike Williamson ran 11.80 in the quarter mile with a full weight Skylark and manifolds... No headers... You know he had well ported heads!
Why use the Thick Felpro gaskets when you could use the .02 Steel Shim Ones. I'm using them them no problems. PONCH
Why take the chance that used parts that where not freshly machined might have imperfections that cause you to do the job a second time
