Just a heads up... Thornton Reproductions (The Olds specialists) have recently introduced repo seat foams.... supposedly from the oem supplier. They are far better than the extra-firm UPI foams, but I haven't been able to compare them to the ACI foams. They're worth a look. I bought a few sets for my '66's, and am very satisfied. https://www.thorntonmusclecars.com/
Just to be clear what I can give you is for the bucket seat backs. So, if that is what you need, just let me know. Cheers
Small update. My buddy zinc coated my original GSX front coil spring then powder coated them GM black.
Are you reusing the sail panels? The NOS quarter don't include that part do they? I went and googled around and I see they do in fact. Nice.
So are you re-leading the joint between the roof and the Sail panel? I am replacing my roof skin, so I need to figure this all out...
I dont know for sure but I seriously dont think he would put lead back in when so many other things are far less toxic and safer to use these days.
I know there's at least one guy here in Seattle that still uses lead. I agree with Jason and Ryan, in that we have a lot of other materials to choose from and don't need lead. I'd love to hear from Adam and Hugger and Rich and others who build these cars to the highest levels.
"All metal" is a good choice but...kitty hair or duraglass is just fine and will outlast all of us....I myself try my best not to put it over raw metal...over epoxy is preferred...not saying I'm not guilty of using over raw ground metal tho
The stuff the factory used was some good stuff tbh..stayed semi flexible and stuck really well..till it didn't
On a convertible this becomes an increasingly important discussion. The top view "H" connection is prone to cracking. I am not saying you can't use other products, you can, but this area didn't crack on my car when we went back with lead.
The “best” way to do this now is to simply remove the seam altogether. Metal work it like it’s one piece. But I’m not that good, so I will continue to use duraglass. Or if the lead is in good shape and undisturbed, I will leave it….assuming I’m not removing any quarter panels.
The seam where the roof and sail panel of rear quarter overlap is quite deep, painted roof cars were leaded and factory vinyl top cars were simply filled with body seam sealer at the factory. I like to weld solid the entire seam ( factory had just a few spot welds) followed by cutting a strip of metal to bridge/ fill the gap and weld it in, similar method that must be employed on convertible rear quarter trunk filler to prevent cracking. Next a thin coat of Duraglas over raw metal, than epoxy ,regular filler and high build primer to get perfectly straight. I also employ same method at front windshield /pillar seams as well.
I just learned yesterday and today what all is entailed with a full 1/4 removal..I have about 12 hours in and am close to having most of the original 1/4 off. It was alot of work and my arms and hands look like I was drug through a briar patch... I did it to see what all is needed to be done... I think I'll just look for another quarter skin instead.
