Starter catching and or noise stop turning.

For anyone wondering why I didn’t want to remove the trans I forgot to mention long tube headers. I can’t remove the trans but I was able to slide it back far enough after removing the dipstick tube. The trans did scratch the newly finished headers but it’s in an area where it won’t be seen. Still annoying luckily the only other scratch (so far) is on the under side of the firewall which also won’t be seen.


I put a lot of work into the flat firewall so that’s another reason I’m not fond of doing this.



I’ll stop my whining now.

Also can anyone tell if my previous plate has been balanced? I see the weight on it but I don’t know if they came like that.

 

As Larry said.

That balance weight is done when the flexplate is manufactured.

The crank should (have been) be balanced with all the rotating mass supplied/calc'd by the shop. (Flexplate, bolts, crank, pistons, rods, caps, bolts, wrist pins clips, rings, harmonic balancer, crank pully and bolt)

Most of the time, the flexplates are close enough. You can take both the your machine shop and they can check them against each other to be sure. But only on a build that really needs to be tight on the balance numbers.

 

sweet!

 

Alright well, that fixed the issue. Thanks again, everyone!