Porting stage 2 heads??

I have a set of new stage 2 SE heads. (yay)

The intake and exhaust ports look amazing in the stock unported form. What gains can be accomplished with porting the heads? say a mild stage 1 port job?
This is for a street motor. Comp ratio 9.5 to 10.5 and probably the 470 or 482 build. From what I understand (I may be wrong) but the stock stage 2 heads will outflow fully ported iron heads. Is this true?

 

Yes as cast they flow better than any iron head done by anyone, leave the Cross section alone, just have a nice bowl blend and multi angle valve job do e for best results on a street setup

 

Our Level 2 porting work on them picks up about 15 numbers across the board, vs out of the box.. For $500 you won't find any cheaper HP.

Can't recall the last set that I did not do that too..

JW

 

When the 350 aluminums come out, are you going to offer a similar porting service?

 

Before getting all worked up and jump on getting more flow from those heads, and taking into account what your rear gearing is ,porting those heads will only pick you up power above 5000 rpm, so now you need to be realistic and ask yourself how much time is my 482 cid STREET motor going to spend above 5000 rpm?

With a striker 482 cid and its rod ratio You want to run 10.5 comp with a Cam of between 230 and 235 intake duration with LCA of 110.
If your running headers and a 2 1/2" Exh system then a single pattern Cam will be fine with those heads.

 

Some very good points here, Stevem makes a very compelling argument for all reality in the driving style that I will be doing.

 

Hmm. Low and mid flow numbers are increased.

With Steve's logic, what was the point in purchasing the heads? Not picking on him. But it's your engine and drive as you see fit.

Ported heads at part throttle will never show any .. it's the WOT that matters. The extra oomph will always be there for you when you need it.

 

When you WANT it!

 

You can always yank the heads down the road and open them up more if you find that you need to tune out some bottom end while added top end but the fact of the matter is that tuning your idle for a Cam that may be a tad too big ( good for top end) is far more easy when the port velocity is high at idle .
You can also get away with a bigger Carb which is another big plus if your running a duel plane Manifold.

 

well, Here is a little bit of info I have kept form you guys,
Right or wrong, (usually wrong in my decisions) I wanted a set of aluminum heads. The stage 2 headers fit in a 65 skylark a lot better then the standard headers. SO My old standard TA headers have held up great but it was time for a change. SO I called up TA and ordered a set of stage 2 heads and headers. I didn't specifically choose the heads to race them, But I chose them because they fit in the car better, and as a plus they flow better in stock form then what I originally had. (stock non stage 1 heads. ) swap the heads and add the TA heavy duty shaft 155 ratio rockers. (A cam swap was in there somewhere also) and I'm off and running happy as can be....... NOPE! I never got that far, heads never went on the engine. The project then ballooned into a full on rebuild on the engine and frame off resto on the car. UGH!!!!! All started with a simple head swap.... now the engine rebuild is turning onto a high performance serious engine. I have no real HP goals, Just buy the best parts/service I can justify and let the numbers wind up where they go.

 

Any pics??

 

All I am basically saying is that for people who have never tuned a big hp street motor ( 400 hp or greater ) before your better off being conservative with the top end parts of the build at first becuse if your tune is off your way less likely to harm the motor real fast.

 

That's all well and good my friend, but even in this day and age where a lot of shops have dyno to tune a new build on and chassis dyno's can be made use of once the car is on the road many people go about self tuning there new motors and have issues or cause big harm to a new motor!

All the many people day after day who come to this site and others looking for help is hard proof of that I am sad to say!

 

before there were chassis dynos that were mainstream... Not everyone could dyno their engine. Everyone neither tested at the track or did things you legally on the street.

Steve you're sounding like a California politician....

 

Not me!, very far from it politically!
Also some folks like me have to drive near 3 hours to get to a drag strip for a test & tune session and trying to get something done on a race day with at most 2 time shots can be a kick in the head!

 

Thank you Jim, This is the straight forward answer I'm looking for. And I trust your opinions. what is the turn around on a set of heads? and whats the best time of year to do the work for you?