original paint marks and writing(stamps),original finishes

I plan on and already bought a few plastic wheel strippers (no, not that kind of stripper) with the short fingers that goes on a die grinder. I’ve used them and it’s tedious but leaves the metal or cast iron looking fresh as new without any scratches nor even a polished look. Then plane to clear it with a soft satin black and put some overspray on where it belongs.
Would this be correct to leave most of the diff bare metal anyone? What I have heard is the factory or even at a dealer level Thayer sprayed just part of the rear ( no pun) part just reaching under the car to make it look good for the customer looking at it on the lot.

 

When I did the frame on restore on my car I used the 3M Rolic wheel a angle grinder to remove the paint on the frame. Worked great did not leave any marks in the metal picture. Painted with Eastwood chassis black the original formula.

 

That looks real nice. I stock Rolic at my store. There’s two different versions, not really different grit. A red and a green. Bet you used the red.. but my problem is a lot of it won’t be painted. It’ll be a bare look. Like nothing ever touched it. Hence a softer plastic “wheel”. Plus it will get into the ruff almost porosity center section

 

Original Gas line hoses with markings and gas stamping ,,from pump to main lines 1970 flint built ,

 

'Have you found a source for the gas line?

 

Here's the firewall on my 1964 Flint-built Skylark. You can see a small "t" as well as a very faded "AC". It is a factory AC car. The "t" might have another letter or two after? Anyone know what that is or what it might mean?

 

No I haven’t , going to see if my guy that makes stamps ,can make stamp like the original markings

 

Hers some 1972 paint markings on the steering shaft and what the phosphate finish on hood hinges should look like, also the red paint on the hood latch rod.

 

Here a 1972 standard wiper motor, the yellow stamp is new to me, the original decal I have seen before.

 

As I continue with prepping my ‘72 I took my dash out and here are the factory gauge stickers on it.

 

70 Stage 1 Tranny BB Turbo 400
w/ 70 Stage 1 Torque Converter
w/ original factory markings per
Mark DeConti.

 

And the gauges are dated Dec 20 1971

 

I think maybe this is the correct gas cap for 1972?