Bulldog has done that already...I have to think someone over there will begin pouring and machining again at some point. Do we need (2) suppliers? Options are a good thing...but less weight is my preference.
You Guy's rock. Save your money buy that block then the 350 stuff will come out and I will put the 350 on the map just like you guy's will with the new block. Looks like you better get a new set of wheelie bars too.:TU:
70ApolloStaged : Well said! I'd like to see pics/info of the '91 Camaro, Is there a website? (maybe PM me? - I don't want to sidetrack the thread Thanks!) I have 2 GN turbos sitting on a shelf in my shop that I thought seriously about putting on my motor for my Camaro. I didn't for one primary reason, I didn't want to blow my block apart and shoot my crank out on the pavement. I want to start building a stout bottom end motor to do the twin turbo thing and put this motor in my black '93 Chevy 1/2 ton 2wd pick-up and make a 455 SS (from 2 sets of 454 SS graphics) :Brow: . The Chevy guys'll love that:laugh: .
The only thing I really want is a block that's strong enough to do what I what with it. Beyond that I think it needs to be strong enough to bring us up to what the other makes already have, if not more. I still like the idea of bosses on the front of the block (they don't need to be big and ugly!) for motor plates. Right now the options are to sandwich it between the front cover and engine, or mount them to the heads.
I like motorplates..............:idea2: http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80873&d=1160348634
Some guy are mentioning "street" usage with this new block; at what HP level do you have to go with plates?
What about a cast iron block. Bulldog has done that already... actually, Bulldog has already "done" the aluminum block as well. I have to think someone over there will begin pouring and machining again at some point. here's the problem. i've been to visit Dick at his Bulldog shop. he was doing finish machining on Caddy intakes when i was there. it's one of the most disorganized messes i've ever seen in my life. my opinion is that Dick is not a shyster, but that he has very little interest in the basic organizational procedures that are necessary to running a business. he's got his fingers in dozens of different projects/blocks and almost all of them will make you say "wow" or "coooooool" ... but he's not devoting the time or energy or focus necessary to actually finish any particular project or making his customers happy. there's also no way he's keeping any control of his inventory and he's probably forgotten half the stuff he has or where it is. he might be okay as the design guy ( although his "design by pencil sketch, work out the kinks on the mill" philosophy is also disturbing in this day and age ) for someone else who was actually running the business/customer service end of things but as the lead man ... ou: to sum up, i wouldn't ever expect there to be any volume out of Bradshaw.
There should possibly be 2 designs one that is a stronger modified version of the original block.wit tha abiltiy to be stroked and bored. The other should be the one as the refered to as i gues the all out race version. It would allow many of the parts that are already in use to be reused and allow a greater numba of peolple would be willing to buy it . There are a lot of people who have rotating assemblies waiting for new blocks but may not be willing to start completely over or afford to for that matter. The race version could have the larger cam bores dropped pan rails and modified seal if need be.
The block is a BBC DRCE3 block for Pro Stock (NHRA 500 CI). If you look closely, it has 9 cam journals.
I am in for building it a simple as possible!!:beers2: It has to be strong and accept the parts we already have!! After it is made and proven there will be plenty of things to add. But for now support TA performance and BUY 1 when they come out!! I know I am!!:TU:
My 2 cents... I would like a block that accepts all my stock type parts that I've already bought. To me, everything should be a direct bolt on. Build it to cover all the weaknesses and problems with the stock Buick block. I personally am not big on aluminum, unless the cost is cheaper (but I don't think it would be). I honestly think your break even point is going to be for the mid to high-end street / strip enthusiast. If you build a full on race block for 7 second type race cars, how many would you sell? 20 maybe? Take care of your core group, then use that to fuel dev on all-out race pkgs.
I know what I would like to see in the new block. I like the idea of the 2.75 mains. The possibility of a 4.60" bore would definately get my attention and the ability to stroke to 4.25" would also be a big plus. Learn from what Dart, Brodix and GMPP have paid for. A bullet proof oiling system is on the absolute highest position on my list as I have replaced my last spun bearing on a Buick that has under 500 miles on it. Smaller main and rod journals will open a new market for T/A and that would be a good thing. I plan on super-charging the new Buick block and wait patiently as the dust settles. I don't care much about the raised cam journals and such as I plan on driving the '69 to cruise ins and what not. Being that it will be an aluminum block tells me that we can probably have our cake and eat it too. Put me down for one.:Brow:
Hey Mike whats up. Hows the new projects going? I have an addition to your aluminum block that would look great as an alternative to the TH400. My brothers 455 70 riv just had it installed and made a custom display, custom shift options. Ill call and discuss it in the future as I would be your supplier. But, your cnc would make a great bracket and adapter plates. Also comes in manual for guys that want the 5 speed od. Cindys aunt Marilyn is doin alright if in your thinking that. Just getting back into buicks and need alot of refreshment again. O and if anyone is interested, 5 percent biodiesel to your tank of regular (per tank size) will change the chemical characteristics of its burn and run like 102 to 110 octane.
Someone's going to have to cite some valid sources if this is to be believed...I sure don't and I've been a fuel systems engineer for 15 years. Please start a new thread if you have facts, don't screw up this one. Devon
have we ever gotten an answer on the projected max bore for the Tomahawk? would i be out of my mind to ask for 4.680"? ou:
The bore spacing on the 455 block is 4.750". You need to have material between the bores. 4.680" bore would leave .110, even in iron (no cyl. sleeve) that would be to thin. Max bore on the TA aluminum block will be 4.500".
Max bore on the TA aluminum block will be 4.500". yeah, that's what i was thinking, minimum .25" material between the centers for cylinder walls. but damnit man, you're ( i'm ) still killing me. how am i supposed to get to 500ci on a 3.64 stroke? ou:
