Matt. I noticed you have 70- up type rocker arms. Do you have the proper lifters and pushrods so the rockers get oil? If that's a 69 block and heads it should get pulled thru head and you may need to plug oil pressure passage so there is no lose of oil pressure. . I don't know if we mentioned that before. 68-69 lifters are not a good match with this setup
its a RO block converted to 4bbl by previous owner.. i have the proper lifters and rods.. so it should be fine
That's good. . Just checking so your breakin goes smoothly. Your about ready to drop it back in aren't you?
yea basicly.. i was still debating to put it on a engine dyno and get it tuned properly before i drop it in.. ?!
Dyno's are pretty good at tuning things full throttle, and can still be improved on AFTER installation in the vehicle. The dyno's load or sweep rate doesn't necessarily match the rate it sweeps through the gears, therefore how close the "tune" is depends on the dyno operator. I guess I'd ask myself, "Can I get this to fire up and run pretty good?" If there isn't a DRASTIC change in top end parts, mainly cam and head ports and the carb can be trusted, then you should be AOK to do this. Maybe have a bud help. If you think you might have serious problems like dumping a quart of fuel down past the rings, major vacuum leaks and carb popping, are afraid to move a distributor's timing while it's running, then you might want to pay someone. Keep in mind that they would need to correct any basic problems also.
good point... talked to a buddy yesterday who was breaking in a couple chevy s already... he offered his help..
Wiring is a bitch... Does anybody having a Online Wiring Diagramm for the 350?? PS: have you guys wired a Electric Fuelpump to the Ignition a Powersource? or directly to the Battery? further im looking for a Dashlight source for a aftermarket Tach... not a wiring genius ..lol
Those are '73+ stamped steel rockers. In '70-'72, Buick used the aluminum rockers. In '68-'69, the 'oil through' rockers were used. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Gary
thanks... appreciate all the help i have gotten from the members here already... you guys are awesome.. sharing all the knowledge...
... looking for a good adress for a 2800 or 3000 stall converter for my th350.. anybody got a tipp for me?
I know they used stamped steel in 72, but I don't know what year the started. I believe they did before that though.
Can't go wrong here. Two thumbs up from me. http://www.v8buick.com/forumdisplay.php?100-Tri-Shield-Performance
I ran a relay for the fuel pump and wired directly from the battery to relay. You can use any wire the is hot only when the ignition is on to "trigger" the relay to ON.. You can even use the wire going to the coil. The relay uses very little current.
I do know they used aluminum rockers from '70-'72 and stamped steel from '73+. Maybe there was an option for either from '70-'72 or someone swapped them out post-factory? You can use either for oiling '70 on up for sure, without doing the conversion on '68-'69 oil-through style. For replacements, the stamped steel is far less expensive, so maybe factory replacements were all stamped steel. That would be my guess.
The style shown in the picture I'm pretty sure are stamped steel. The two posts down Andy refers to them as the 70-72 style rockers. Are they aluminum, and I just assumed they were steel??
The ones in the picture are stamped steel for sure. The rocker style main differences are the oil-through of the late '60's, and then changed in '70 to pushrod oiling and stayed that way for the duration of production. Two types of pushrod oiling rockers were available: aluminum and stamped steel, the former was used from '70-'72, then went to the lesser expensive stamped steel after that. Either can be useded post '70, and even in '68-'69 as long as a conversion is done. On a 1970 engine, for example, one could swap out the original (and probably worn) aluminum rockers for the stamped steel rockers, which are much cheaper to purchase NEW than it is to refurbish the old aluminum ones.
Rearend finaly in. mounted the el. fuel pump on the driverside on the fram below the tank and ran all fuell lines and wires to the front. Wired the fuel pump to a relay on the firewall.. Power will come from the Ign. spare (Fuse box front). I will also have a oil pressure safety switch just to be sure..
