Hmm. I just noticed that the spring pressure recommendation on your custom cam chewer grind is way more than the TA Stage 1 springs will be able to handle. You'll have to get stiffer springs to use that cam. Fortune smile upon you too, as you break it in. I'm out of time for now, others should chime in with additional information regarding this. (Ich habe keine zeit) Gary
hey gary Dankeschn.. great to hear some german here haha.. Scott brown told me to get the TA stage 1 springs thats why i got them. ...after chating with scott about my combo and my goals im confident that he gave me the right lead... But im always looking for good advices. So i appreciate you checking in on my "newbie" built.. its real fun...
The 350 stage 1 springs are correct. They need to be installed at 1.670" which will give you 130 closed and 295 open. You will be .070" from coil bind which is OK. The shop should have a valve spring checker to verify the spring pressure at open and closed heights. You will need shims to get the correct installed height. Find out from your machinist what the spring height is presently and do not install the valve stem seals until the head is ready for final assembly after the spring height is set. The shims may not fit past the seals. Which valve stem seals are you using? Paul
I would not install the springs at more than 1.700" That would give you 120 lbs closed and 285 lbs open which is still OK. There also needs to be some margin to allow the springs to soften over time and still be able to keep the valve train tracking The cams intake profile is more radical than the exhaust profile. If the spring pressure is too light the intake valve can float and limit the rpm.
I didn't mean to mislead or shed any negative light on anything, just making an observation. Cam card states 130 closed, 300 open recommended spring pressures. TA Stage 1 springs (last I looked, they may have changed them) were 110/260 or so, and some have said they only got about 90/240 out of them, which isn't much more than stock springs. I was just afraid they might not be enough for you. Even though the cam doesn't have too much lift for the springs, they may struggle trying to maintain stability above 5200 RPM with a 51* intake and 61* exhaust ramp intensity, is what I was thinking, considering 55*-60* is the 'safe limit' for flat tappet grinds (less than 55* is considered pretty intense for flat tappet cams), unless the cam surface has been nitride impregnated. Setting the springs with a little lower height will increase spring pressures though... Hey I'm not perfect. If everyone else says it's ok, then I'll back them. Paul Muller is an excellent source and very reliable. You can trust him. Gary
Gary Your observation was very necessary because it caused us to address spring installation problems. Thank You Spring installation is very much like cam installation in that you can just put them in and hope it's going to be ok or you actually observe proper procedure and make it right. When obtaining new springs they should first be checked on a spring checker to see if they are in spec. They might not even be the right springs! Next is to check the retainer height by putting it on the valve stem at all 16 locations and chart the measurements. The chances are very slim that all measurements are close to being the same. Then figure the shim thicknesses needed to get the correct spring height at all 16 locations. Chart those also. It is also better to use spring locaters if there is room and install the shims under the locators. The 350 Stage one springs are listed as 110 @ 1.727" and 280 @ 1.227 with coil bind at 1.115" If you do the math the spring rate is 340 lbs/inch. 280 - 110 = 170 lbs. 1.727" - 1.227" = .500" 170 lbs/.500" = 340 lbs/in. Those specs are given so you can calculate if the springs will get you the open and closed pressure recommended on the cam card while also having margin away from coil bind. It does not mean that the springs have to be set at 1.727" Knowing the spring rate is 340 and we need another 20 lbs to get from 110 to 130 closed: 20/340 = .0588" if we are 110 @ 1.727" then 1.727" - .059" = 1.668" to get 130 lbs. Round up to 1.670" Intake valve lift is .485" X the spring rate (340) = 165 lbs Add 165 to the closed pressure of 130 = 295 lbs open 1.670" installed height minus the valve lift (.485") = 1.185" Coil bind is 1.115" 1.185" - 1.115" = .070" clearance before coil bind So we end up with 130 lbs @ 1.670" and 295 lbs @ 1.185" with .070" to spare before coil bind. That's how the specs are used. Fun Stuff! Paul
short update.. i was busy for a bit and couldnt do much... yesterday my buddy plated/welded the crack i had in the driver side front frame rail(bumper mount section) ... i had to open the seem weld that was there to allign the frame back to where it belongs... further i got some rear end parts control arms from UMI
Summit has a SALE going on for NX nitrous Kits.. i had to react so i ordered a NX mainline Plate kit today Price is really good and beats every Online Price i saw so far! so guys.. if you looking for a small shot kit like i do (up to 250 shot) for the quadrajet.. here is the link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-ml1002/overview/make/ford/model/mainline
Hey guys since i have a regular life i wasnt able to follow up on my progress.. well today i got some goodies back got the 8.5 10 bolt rear end back from dropping a posi and 3.73 s in it The other day i rebuild the rear Drums Further i got my Cyl. Heads back from the shop As mentioned i put in TA stage 1 Springs and Bigger Valves from TA. Further i got quit a bit of porting work work done. DETAILS Heads shaved 0.36 to real 9:1 compression Seat press 1.705 Coil Bind 1.150 Travel 0.555 Bowl got polished intake& exhaust side mild porting Actualy i was planing on less because of my $budget. But Mike Lloyd (Lloyd eng. oakley ca) was really cool and made me a gift with all that extra work. i think 500$ is a bargain. kind a hard to do good pics. with the cell. Further i got my NX nitrous plate kit. Sh*t just got real ...lol lot of assembling to do now
Looking good! I put that engine in the car in July of '14, but didn't drive it much. Good to see that you are waking the engine up. Did you shave all the vinyl top trim pins and fill the holes? I don't see where the paint break would be, now.
Looks good .9 to 1 should make for good lower torque. Gears and posi will go well . don't forget the limited slip additive for gear lube in rear end . otherwise you will get some 'chatter' from posi around corners. Your combo is coming together pretty good.
