Mods to my 300CI

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by CanadianBird, Dec 14, 2010.

  1. 64SkyConvert

    64SkyConvert 1964 300 ci

    Thanks Matt- the tiny holes are driving me nuts and just wondering if I can at least enlarge the secondary holes... I'd really like to see those pics.
     
  2. CanadianBird

    CanadianBird Silver Level contributor

    Hawaii,

    I used a jigsaw with an extended blade to cut metal, Cleaned up with a carbide burr, then polished everything up and rounded over the rough edges in the plenum. Sound like the aluminum may have a different config.

    Bob,

    I am good, purchased a new cover for a turbo v6 for $200 brand spanking new. That should do the trick, no worries this way. Thanks a bunch, just about done with the porting, am going to head out to my builder. Need a harmonic balancer though. Have a box coming your way, should leave tomorrow and arrive Monday or Tuesday. your will have to pick it up at my favourite car dealer in Victoria, service manager will have it. I will PM you. Cheers
     
  3. 64SkyConvert

    64SkyConvert 1964 300 ci

    I wonder if I'd be better off finding an iron intake for my '64 and modifying it like Mike did? I assume it would fit the '64 aluminum heads...?
     
  4. Big Matt

    Big Matt Well-Known Member

    David
    I wouldn't use the 65 CI intake with the alum heads as the intake ports would be bigger than the head ports and create a "shelf" that the flow would hit. A smaller intake port flowing to a larger head port is much better than the other way around.

    I'd just get a 1" carb spacer plate (either open or 4 hole) and put that between the carb and intake. You will probably still have the "shelf" mentioned above, but it may be smaller; or with a slight bit of grinding/blending disappear.
     
  5. CanadianBird

    CanadianBird Silver Level contributor

    David (thanks for adding your name to your signature),

    I agree with Matt, just use a spacer and round over the edges of your intake bores. All you need to do is smooth out the transitions.
     
  6. 64SkyConvert

    64SkyConvert 1964 300 ci

    Mike & Matt- thanks for the info.


    I've got a 1 inch phenolic spacer installed right now so that the secondaries don't hit the intake manifold. If I can't grind on the intake holes to enlarge them, then I need an adapter that transitions the large square bore of the Edlebrock to the small square bore of the Buick intake manifold. I searched high and low and could not find such a thing months ago. Now I think I may found it-


    How this adapter ever got past me, I do not know... but I think this is exactly what I need: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2064/?rtype=10


    What do you think- is this the ticket to get rid of the "shelf" at each hole at my intake?
     
  7. Big Matt

    Big Matt Well-Known Member

    David
    I've used that adapter in the past to mount a Holley on my 300. Worked okay, but beware that the "capture nuts" on mine were very weak and stripped out. Also the taper of the adapter was a bit too much on my intake and actually created the reverse situation I described above. Like sticking a funnel into the center of each of the 4 "barrels." If that makes sense. It should work okay, but in all honesty I wouldn't waste my money on it again. :Do No:

    I will try my best to get the intake pics this weekend to show the alum intake water issue.
     
  8. 64SkyConvert

    64SkyConvert 1964 300 ci

    Matt- thanks for the input on the adapter.

    I can't believe my engine has to suck air through those tiny holes in the intake!!!

    If I could just get the secondaries enlarged....
     
  9. I am milling the holes to holley squarebore size on my 65 intake. we have a mill at work and i used an adapter to scribe the outline.
     
  10. CanadianBird

    CanadianBird Silver Level contributor

    Finally done! Further up this thread I questioned if I should remove those bumps in the exhaust runner. My engine shop said absolutely. So I did.I also polished the backside of my intake valves and and removed flashing at water jacket passage outlets. Some of you may be familiar with the weekly Old Autos paper. My engine builder is often quoted and consulted by this paper so my level of confidence with his abilities has greatly improved. Included pick of finished porting job.
     

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  11. GS Jim

    GS Jim Platinum Level Contributor

    Mike, You can also knock that lip down on the back of the Valves.
    PONCH
     
  12. CanadianBird

    CanadianBird Silver Level contributor

    Ponch I let my engine builder handle those ridges. Cleaned up the engine bay and waiting on motor mounts to get it back in. As this was my 1st time hauling out my engine it's going to be my 1st time putting it back in. Any advice from you veterans would be much appreciated. I was a one man show getting it out but I think I will need another body to get it back in. I am hoping to not have to remove my driveshaft and move trani back...

    Hey Ponch, the kids team has made it into the semi finals. They won the 1st 2 lost the 3rd. If they win the next one they are off to the finals.
     

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  13. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I would remove the starter before you drop it in. I would also seal up the intake manifold with duck tape so nothing gets in there. Be sure to add some good lighting around the engine so that you do not overlook something as you drop it in. Try to find a load leveler so you can angle the engine easier without messing with the chain.
     

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