Will not spend $$$ on dyno or flow...Just a waste of good beer money (in my case)...I will let you know what my bum says when I sit it in the seat and go WOT. If it's happy...I'm happy! I will post the additional pics from port matching and bowl work as I progress. Sean, 300 ish HP would keep me happy.
Hi Mike, I'd like to know who told you not to use those piston's I sent you. If they're talking about the attached rods I might understand. If you put your rods on the piston's there should be no problem. The machine shop will probably do a hone job so those piston's should slip right in. I checked them out with my yard stick and they were all just fine. Don't worry about them. I had a 110 Poston in mine too. Ran great. Good luck to you and have a Happy New Year. Get Well!! PONCH
Hi Ponch, Every purist will tell you that you can't utilize used anything in an engine rebuild (my brother the tech was the one giving me the most grief). The shop I took the engine to measured up the pistons and agreed that they can be reused as long as the cylinders are not out of round:TU: . I believe that their limit for out of round was one thou. I have some pics, I have started to airfoil the valve guide boss, I have not taken it down from the high point and am unsure if I should. I think I probably went too close to the valve guides... Also on the short radius side of the intake their seems to be a small raised disc in the casting in each runner, a bit bigger than the diameter of a thumb tack, raised slightly thinner that a dime. Should these be left alone or should these be blended into the runner?
Hi Mike, Nice looking job on the Heads!! Go ahead and get rid of the casting marks. I remember going through the Foundry at Buick and looking at the sand casts and wondering what the indents were for. Looked kinda funny inside out. Blend them in. I wouldn't worry about air-foiling the valve guides. Just make them smaller and smoother. If you were going to the strip every weekend I'd say go ahead but spend your time on the exhaust side of the head to make it as smooth as you can. Get rid of that big valve guide boss. Don't worry about screwing up a head, I've got a few extra sets. Plus a bucket of valves. Keep up the good work and keep in touch. Summer can't be that far away.:TU: PONCH
Hey guys, I have a couple of intake valves that have quite a bit of deposit build up on the back side of them. See pic, I assume it's carbon, it's like dried sap from a pine tree, I did have some ventilation issues for a while when I put these fancy looking oil breathers on the valve covers, would blow oil up through dip stick at WOT, I drilled xtra holes in the underside of breather and seamed fine afterwards. Was running rich for a while... Got back from machine machine shop, piston to cylinder clearance was 5 thou plus a bit, so bore to 20 thou oversize, will need new pistons, rings, we can get away with a polish on the crank, waiting for status on cam shaft, was sent out with cam card to other shop to have it measured and spec to make sure lobs are ok. He recommends welding a couple of baffles at bottom of pan to keep oil suction bathing in oil under accel and braking, also enlarge vertical oil feed from pump to horizontal oil galleries as well as ensuring that intersections are clear ( said at time drill bits did not go far enough and can be left with chamfered passages restricted oil flow). One oil gallery plug looks lie it was breaking loose, he will thread and install a screw in type, rear main bearing cap partially collapsed (see pic, will be sent out for fusion weld) was causing RMS distortion and leak, thinks someone used a flywheel bolt that was too long, he gave me crap or using silicon, said it needed air to dry and ends up acting has a spacer and could allow bearing to ride in the main (sorry, he explained it better), ok to use sealer but he gave it a name i can't remember, siad it dries with out air...oil pump housing had some serious scoring, so new front cover may be in order (inexpensive cover available??). Other than that he thought it was in pretty good shape. Was complimentary of the quality of the crankshaft in this block. Will get new bearings through out and ARP bolts on the CR's and will contact EGG for pistons .Will get pricing later this week. That's it for now.
Wanted to share the tools I have been using. I really like the dremel, it's what I used shape and sculpt around the valve guide bosses. I have most of the roughing plus completed. Just need to clean up using 80 grit tootsie rolls. Cannot get into all the nook and crannies but this has to be way better than before. I will clean and polish exhaust runners next. In the picture I posted of the exhaust runner view, does anyone know what that indentation is there for? Should I blend that in? It's in all the exhaust runners so my instinct says leave it alone...promotes scavenging? Link on porting 300 heads: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Porting-Buick-300-Heads.htm
I polished the intake bowls, looks like that was a mistake, I will rough them up again with 80 grit. I cleaned up all of my intake runners, removed all casting lines, still some castings imprints but I do not want to remove any more. I finished off with 80 grit in intake runners going in a clockwise circular movement around the runner while slowly working inwards. I have the exhaust runners to as close to a mirror finish as I could and polished what I could in the exhaust bowls. I took the edge off of the combustion chamber outer edges and rounded over the bump next to plug to take of sharp edges. I will finish the other head. I will post pics if I muck it up!! This is my 1st time doing this. If I have made any boo boo's please chirp. Cheers
Sean more than happy to send what ever you need your way. As usual always grateful of your input. Thought I would get the other head done today. Water line on the humidifier broke while I was have a cup of Joe at Starbucks. What a mess, throw in my kids hockey politics a couple of phone calls and the day has past me buy. Couple of week nights should do it.Cheers.
No rush, I do not even have kids yet and find it hard to make time for the cars. Hockey politics, never heard of any of that LOL.... Keep up the excellent job!
Hi Mike, I wrote a long thread here last night but my computer timed out and went to my screen saver. Was I pissed. I was looking for a picture. That's what took me so long, I've got too many pictures. It's a shame you got your bore increased. Did it really need it? I took my 350 block to a shop and told them just boil it out, new cam bearings and soft plugs AND THATS IT. They wanted to bore it and align hone it. NO. I told them to remember it's a BUICK block. So that's all they did. Put it back together, It was on the loose side of the spex but it run's great. Still installing my 340 tho. If you think you took too much out of the bottm of the runners you can still round off the short turn radius. That'll help. That One Seat look's pretty ruff. Other than that it look's pretty good. Then I read where you port mathed the intake and not the heads. Oh Man. You're gonna like the changes you're making. That's if you remember to port match the heads. I'm quite sure I can find the pic I was looking for last night. The screensaver too. PONCH
Hummmm, what do you want me to do with the lady? She has a nice face. Sorry that all that wisdom the you were going to share went out with the screen saver. You know, I should look at the clearance specs in my shop manual, I don't think it's bored out yet. He also wants me to change my frt timming cover, oil pump housing is scored, I had added a booster plate. Cold idle was at 40 psi, dropped to about 18 psi when really hot.
Don't worry about your front timing cover. Mine drops to about Zero at hot idle, no problem. Look at the cover face of the oil pump. that's the piece you have to worry about. Push the gears up and see what the clearence is. If you can feel a ridge down to the gears use the thinnest gasket you can find. Trust yourself. It sounds like you're getting too much information from too many places. If you haven't had the block bored yet check for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. I'll bet there isn't one. That isn't a soft Chebby block, it's a hard Buick block that will take many miles to make a dent in it. Oil up those pistons and slide them in without the rings. any slop? Didn't think so. Measure the cylinder top and bottom 90* apart. See what you come up with. Just keep going and measure everything. Stay home and do it. If someone knocks on the door, ignore them. You're busy. There's nothing worse than stopping and going. Where the hell was I? Good Luck and keep it up. Changed my screen saver again. PONCH
I've got a '64 300 4bl, so I just have to ask- what carb are you going to run? I bolted on an Edelbrock 600 cfm and it runs alright, but the intake holes on the top of the manifold are far too small for that carb. I've been told NOT to try to enlarge them, because their is a water passage near them...?
Hi Mike; Maybe I should answer questions dependant upon which drugs I just ingested. The VA gives me plenty. I have a big piece of flat 10ga. Stainless Steel that I glue sandpaper to. Spray it with Scotch glue, flip it and lay it on my counter top for a few minutes, then it's flat. Oil it up with 3 in 1 oil (no WD-40 please) and sand down something like your oil pump face. It'll work on just about anything. Just depends on what you want flat and the paper grit. Just make sure you hold it flat. You'd be suprised at the amount of things you can use it for. I'm assuming you were talking about your pump face being scored. I see you're a Hocky Dad. So was I since my Son was Seven. My feelings go out to you. We would go all the way up to Owen Sound. PITA at the time but looking back I would gladly do it again. Let me know how things are going. PONCH My Favorite Hockey Fan.
Thanks Ponch, its the timing cover side that is scored. I never played hockey growing up. My kid has only been playing for 2 years (he's 10), most of the kids on his team have been playing since age of 4. He went right into single A, amazing skater, fast, agile, good hockey IQ, keeps his head up, plays centre just gotta work on getting that puck into the net. Clear he is natural at sports, plays competitive soccer as well, also good with a golf club and tennis racket. He just needs to pick one cause I am running out of air. (enjoy watching him) Hawaii, I have a 500 cfm, ran great, will have to see if it's still adequate after the build. Here is what I did with my intake. I run a inch square bore spacer. I was not aware of the water passage. I port matched my intake runners to the gasket. Wonder if anyone has a cut away of a 300 intake they could post.
Hey Micheal,ive'been following your build project,thats impresive work you are giving that Stove of yours!It ought to really Cook down the 401 when you get 'er back in.On the timeing cover,i can pull one off of my 300 if you think you can use it.Can't remember any oil pressure readings that would have given me any concerns.Your pressure seems pretty good as is. Let me know.
Mike- Hmmmmm.... that is not a '64 aluminum intake, is it? People here have been telling me that you can't do that to a '64 aluminum intake. That is exactly what I want to do to my 64 intake. Can you post more pics of the intake and discuss a little about what you did to open up the TOP of it (not the runners)? Did you open up the top of it?
From the picture it doesn't look like the water passages would be close enough to cause problems enlarging the carb area. Sure wouldn't want to wreck an aluminum manifold on an assumtion tho. You know what they say about "assume".
David - This is exactly what I tried to do to my 64 aluminum 300 intake and I hit water on both sides. I will try to get pics this weekend to show what I mean.
