I will be pulling the block out of the skylark. 1st time, no issues, 54,000 miles, had heads rebuild with mild porting a few years back, have a oil pan leak, maybe rear main seal. Ponch sent some high comp pistons my way, they are used, am now getting all kind of mixed reviews about installing these. Don't do it...will have problems...I have crosstown engine remanufactures just up the street (see link below). They will do a straight reman for $1950.00 on the Buick engine, top and bottom. Just seems like a shame to do, engine runs ok, got a lifter that chatters at odd cold start. So am thinking I will pull the engine, plasti gauge my mains and conn rods, check cylinders for out of round. If all is good, no touch bottom but do a bit more porting at the top. Recheck port matching...clean, paint and put back together. Can I port carefully, clean and re assemble or will I have to get more machining done on heads after porting. I think I will have heads flowed before and after. Can do at machine shop. Comments appreciated. My compression numbers last time checked were lowest 130 highest 155. Also have 110 cam from poston. Cam card indicates " In most applications the cam is run at 2 to 6 degrees advanced. To advance cam timing add the amount of advance to the opening figures. Substract equal amount from the closing figures" I have cloyes double roller timing chain n gears can run +/-4 degree...does cam card tell me to set at +4 degrees? Sorry for the 10 pounds of s##t in the 5 lbs bag. http://www.crosstownengines.com/
It's out...short block off to the machine shop for a refresh, high compression pistons and some oiling mods. I picked up some burrs with a six inch shank. Did my homework and will start porting my heads. Merry Christmas.
You should dyno the engine before it goes back in the car. I'm curious to see the effect of the cam and porting. I'm torn between keeping the 300 in my '64 or ditching it in favor of a 455 or even an LS.
Would you believe...I caught the damn flu!!! Been on my ass for the last 3 days, so not much progress, felt a tad better so I ran around to get stuff I needed, bought some burrs with 6 inch shanks along with an electric die grinder, it's only one speed, 25000 rpm! Not to pumped about spinning those 6 inch long burrs at that speed. No router speed controls available locally. Will try to make my own using a high wattage light dimmer and an electrician friend! (don't want to burn the motor on the new tool. ). Removed a few valve springs, at 100lbs PSI this was no easy task!! Anyhow, look at the pic below, where the valve seal mates with the head, if that is a crack as I may suspect it is. Is this head toast?
Hey Michel,if it isn't me pulling a motor its you.If you need anything from my motor pile let me know,maybe its time for the 340.I'll ask my builder to take a look at the photo.
Hey Bob! Hope you had a great Xmas. We are off to a hockey tournament in Ottawa, not sure how much eng wk will get done. This is going to take longer than anticipated. The short block is at the machine shop. Hoping for a low budget refresh. If it starts getting complicated I will consider other options at that point. I will drop you a call soon. Cheers.
Valves out, I will port match intake and exhaust sides. Matched intake with gaskets last winter, that resulted in larger openings in intake...so any gains made elsewhere were probably lost at this transition. Will smooth thing out, rid of those casting lines in the runners and tackle the other side of that guide landing. I will also polish the backside of my intake valve. Just brought the head with the crack over to the machine shop. Have one 1/4 mile from the house, how lucky's that...they will try to repair.
Great stuff! A simple clean up should help a bunch! Have you planned a camshaft yet or did I miss it?
OK just took other head apart. Not my day!!! another damaged valve guide landing. (what is the right name for that broken thingy?), and I have an exhaust seat that is in poor shape, looks like something went through there. Re that damaged valve guide landing WHAT CAUSES THAT? I assume that the guides were replaced at some point and that they were not sized appropriately, they were pressed in and bang...engine did not burn oil. Never revved over 5300 rpm.
Sean, I have 110 from poston and have been quite pleased with it, est 4000 miles on it. My short block is with a local performance engine builder. I should expect a call from him any day. If he tells me that I should replace it I will look. I left him my cam card, he's been building engines all his life and is in his mid 60's. His son is now involved in the business and seems to have gained quite the rep among the tuner crowd, they are doing things to these Hondx engines that people are happy with...engine builders in BC and Montreal are sending him their Hondx eng for mods. What ever I do i will prob stay with a cam that is limited to 480 lift. I will need new lifters, have a noisy one somewhere and I have a motor mount that separated.
Best of the season Michel, I hope other then your cold bug you and your family had a great Christmas. You hit the nail on the head, that is from installing cast iron inserts. I have seen many heads over the years just like yours that went the distance with out problems. How old is the valve job? Chris
HEY CHRIS!!! Thanks for chiming in. Was done about 6000 miles ago + by CC Racing in Richmond. I just sent Terry an email, hoping to jog his memory, I seem to recall that he may have told me about that condition when I picked up my heads from him. I will see what he says...so you think that I may be able to get away with this condition after all? Looks like I may have to get that exhaust seat and valve resurfaced. I also think I will go get my other head back from that machine shop up the street 1st thing in the morning. The guy I spoke to said that he would get his guy to look at it (obviously he was not the machinist) he thought it would blow oil if left as is. (mmmmmm....i don't think so.)
The pics are a bit hard to make out, but I asked about the age of the rebuild because there seems to be alot of oil in the combustion chamber. Starting at the intake flange (intake manifold side) of the runner it looks dry but when it gets down to the guide it gets wet looking. They need to be checked out. Check out your pm's... Chris
So the engine shop told me not to worry, that damage happens when new guides installed for positive seal. As for what seems like a lot of carbon build for 5000 miles, he swiped his fingers in the combustions chambers and quickly stated "Your just running too rich. Finish your porting and polishing, brings your heads and valves back and we will make sure you have a positive seal...". Now I just need to call my machine shop sometimes this week.
Ditto. But I'd like to see some dyno numbers when it's back together. I'm struggling with rebuilding the 300 or replacing it in favor of a 455 or an LS.
It is likely to get about 310 hp out of a mild 300 build. Here is an example: http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DavidThorn.htm
