Got a 14.54, its getting better..... but

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Mark Demko, Apr 18, 2015.

  1. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I've been thinking of an A/F for years, maybe its time to buy one.
    I might go back in and take the gov. out and put a slightly heavier weight on the one side. I had a 13.5 gram (5200/5300 rpm) changed it to 6.5 (6000/6100 rpm) should try a 10 gram, hopefully that will put me 5500/5800 rpm.
    My total timing is 34 deg. all in at 2300/2400 rpm, with that total setting my initial is 16 deg.
    I tried 36 deg total, the engine doesn't seem to run "as smooth" I can hear slight detonation/pinging, maybe its just me:grin: At that total timing, my initial is 18, no issues with hot starts, or kick back.
    Im running MSD Pro Billet distributor, no vacuum advance.
    I do like your suggestion on the A/F meter. Im the curious type and like seeing where "stuff" is at.
    I need another 2 mph to hit 100 in the 1/4, that's about 20 hp yes? You think that's attainable with jetting and or 2 deg. more timing?
     
  2. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Derek, is your A/F meter pretty easy to use? Easy to read on the fly?
     
  3. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Justin, NO, Im getting one first, YOU got the first SP3:laugh:
     
  4. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    Extremely easy to use. Real time readout and data logging if so desired. I would suggest a dedicated and fused power source direct to the battery, not relying on the cig. lighter. The sensors are heated and draw lots of power. I worry the dash may melt.
     
  5. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    I will usually either have someone drive while I'm reading the meter or vice a versa to be on the safe side. That's one of the reasons I want to get the data log upgrade!

    And yes it is VERY easy to use, harder to get the ratios right choosing the right jets and or rods in your case than using the meter. But a LOT easier with the meter than without one.

    With the meter and the data logger using it at the track would be the best fastest way to dial in the A/F ratios for your combo without paying the around $400 + for what dyno tuning can cost. GL



    Derek
     
  6. Taulbee2277

    Taulbee2277 Silver Level contributor

    Well of course! My plan was to ask you for tips! Haha
     
  7. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Ok bud, fair enough, you did let me hold your SP3 at BPG:TU:
     
  8. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I was looking on Summit Racing's site at A/F meters, which one do you have?
    I hear yah on dyno sessions, I cant fathom removing the engine, transporting, dynoing, then re-installing just for jetting:eek2:
    Then money spent on the meter and doing it with the car all intact is much more attractive:Brow:
     
  9. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Good point on the wiring!!
    Which unit do you have?
    Since I have no knowledge on these meters Im getting opinions from you guys that have/use 'em
     
  10. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    I use an Innovate MTX-L just for tuning. In fact, I also have their tailpipe clamp and extended wire so I don't have to install bungs on all of my cars. I only use it when I need it, but it's worked great so far!
     
  11. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    I use the dual sensor FAST model FST-170402, $417 from Summit. I see 3 poor reviews but I have had no problems using mine. Plug it in, hit calibrate and in 20 seconds it's working.
     
  12. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    The FAST is a nice unit especially with dual channel for V engines. But there is another way, no need to remove the engine, just have two O2 bungs welded in the downpipes or header collector and head to the local Dyno shop 6 pulls will be between 75 and $150 or most owners will run it for a hour for like $100. A good dyno shop will have a wide band not a tail pipe clip, most I know of have two so both banks can be read. Take some plugs,timing light,jets ,rods etc and see what it likes tune for strongest curve for street performance and max hp for mph. Once its tuned its most likely where it will stay as most of us aren't gonna pull over on the side of the road and make changes bcuz our meter shows we're running a little rich or lean due to that particular days weather
     
  13. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    Even then, that's very impressive. Most people can't even get there with aftermarket intake, headers, and an 'upgraded' camshaft. Hell, most stock/mild Buick big blocks aren't even there. That should put it into perspective for most people.

    That in itself speaks volumes on tuning and properly matched parts. :TU:

    All that plus 20+ mpg and a bag of chips. People need to listen to you more often than they do. :Smarty:


    Gary
     
  14. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    Aw shucks!
     
  15. Jclstrike

    Jclstrike Well-Known Member

    Mark,
    we have a car dyno close:TU: B3R in Brunswick and when I called a few years ago it was like 100 for 3 pulls but still havent done it yet.
     
  16. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Was going to go to the track this morn, but got rained out:ball:
    After the rain stopped I put new calipers on the GS, and installed my line lock, not hooked up electrically yet tho.
    I came across these pics from BPG, Cant believe my wife got a pic of my best run so far:TU:
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    Sweet, You done good. Exact time I ran at that same track.
     
  18. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Thanks:TU:
    I wanna go faster tho, damn weather sucks lately, cant get to the track!
     
  19. Taulbee2277

    Taulbee2277 Silver Level contributor

    Feel your pain buddy!
     
  20. walts72

    walts72 Well-Known Member


    When you put the sp3 on you will go faster.
     

Share This Page